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It won't pull you back in the seat, that's for sure. It'll have about the same affect on performance as if you were to go back to stock 27" tires. You still have an anemic engine.

4.10/4.11 is the stock ratio. 4.88 is as low as you can go with the stock axles. I didn't figure you'd downsize, most don't want to, favoring appearance over performance.

You can source a used ax5 at Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market . Look at the 2.5L Dodge Dakota for an ax15 that will bolt up.

6"+ lift or serious fender trimming.

Newer 231's didn't have the brass synchronzer ring, but they'll interchange just fine. Email me at bountyhunter AT sija.org if you need more 231 help.

Going back to stock size tires will help you get some power and performance back.

You get what you pay for. And please be patient. Some real helpful folks here that will reply if they think they have something useful.

Where in the seat or steering wheel do you feel the shake? Is it worse when accelerating or decelerating? Change at all when letting off the throttle slightly? Have you tried driving without the front driveshaft?

Caster should be up in the 7-8º range on a lifted Jeep, but it's a fine balance to tune it in conjunction with the front pinion angle. I agree with the above comment that the front pinion needs to come up, which will help put your caster closer to 7-8º. A steering stabilizer is a bandaid, a...

You're going to need a center dump manifold on that side.

I had a '95 YJ and it looked nothing like that. Those aren't even factory bolts holding the clutch slave. The clutch slave should be mounted into the bellhousing.

Those are relays attached to the wiring harness, the metal bracket should be screwed to the back of the dash somewhere. The O terminals are not factory, and are generally used as a ground connection.

It doesn't work like that. Your issue was mechanical, not fluid related.

You will need a 4wd ax15, be sure the output shaft matches your transfer case input. Your towing capacity will be unchanged.

Pull the diff cover and get the numbers off the side of the ring gear. Good time to change the fluid. Post the numbers. Both Jeeps were 4.10 gears in stock form.

Why is the clutch slave mounted there and not in the firewall? Is that the OEM location?

8.25 will be a good easy upgrade for you, comparable in strength to the d44 and found in the XJ tow package. Look at Dodge trucks for the 136a nippon denso alternator. You might need to swap your pulley onto it, as well as clock the plastic boot on the pos stud a different direction.

Look at a v8 swap, less work and you'll be ahead performance wise. Nothing about the 4.0L being a jeep engine makes it an easy or wise swap.

Where did you learn this? None of the 2.5L driveline works with the 4.0L engine. The weight between the 4.0L and a GM 5.7L is comparable.

As far as swapping in the 4.0L, nothing about it being a Jeep engine makes the swap any easier than any other drivetrain. You just end up with another run of the mill 4.0L but with a non-factory hacked install. As for decreasing the Jeep's value, only you can decide that. What's it worth to...