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Oh I'm sorry Jay, you're right, it was a air line of some sort. I went back out and checked and the fuel return follows the same path down, I just never bothered to check where it terminated. Sorry about that. I'll look at that red, thanks.

Yeah, the one on the front of the engine (left) definitely had a line running to the fuel filter, which I thought was weird as well. I suppose if it doesn't need it I'll disconnect it and plug it. I was under the impression however that all carbs use returnless fuel systems. Am I wrong?

Could somebody please tell me what these things are and how necessary they are? On the right, one of the lines is a vacuum line and the other actually goes to the fuel filter . . . On the left, I believe all three are vacuum lines of some sort. Any help at all would be great guys. On a side...

Alright Bounty, about that duplex timing chain. From what I understand, they're stronger and stretch less, correct? At what point will I need one. If I do the head, headers, ported intake, and Clifford cam with their cam kit, will I be in danger of breaking a simplex timing chain? Will I ever be...

I've just been looking on eBay for headers and I came with these two. They seem to be alright, which do y'all think I should go for? Or are both bad ideas. Thanks a lot guys, adios...

Do you have any suggestions as far as type or brand of cam? I don't need the best of the best, my pockets ain't bottomless.

Hey guys, I'm fixing to do the 4.0 head swap. All the parts are coming in in the next week or two and I'm excited. A buddy of mine suggested that while I was at it, I might as well put a new cam in as well. This is something I hadn't thought of but it sounds like a good idea. Only thing is, I'm...

Amen. I did it and am very pleased.

The volt meter should come with leads that are very sharp. You'll just set the volt meter to the 20V setting, touch the black lead to the nearest good ground or stick it into a black ground wire, and then stick the red lead into the wires jps4jeep suggested. Just stab the wire, through the...

Well alright, I have a whole new respect for this transmission. What should I look for as far as donor vehicles? The little bit of research I've done suggests these can be found in Ford and GM vehicles as well? Will these incarnations of this transmission bolt up as well?

Do you think the t-5 is sturdy enough to stand up the abuse I'm liable to give it?

Hey guys, my 4-speed is starting to make funny noises, and I'm contemplating swapping in lower gears in the axles too, so I think it may be time for a 5-speed. I did a little research and heard a lot of good things about the NV4500. How easy are these things to find, what will it take to get it...

Hey guys, I attend an engineering school in indiana, and like all engineering schools, they require we take a certain amount of humanities classes. Nobody likes them but everybody takes them, mine this quarter is "Fundamentals of Public Speaking." Anyways, I'll be giving a persuasive speech at...

Yeah, the regulator should be internal on this Jeep. So if Joopin is correct on the diagnosis, a new alternator is in order.

36 and 37 are the idle adjustment screws and springs. There's one for each barrel.

I like snitty's idea of putting a metal leaf under the pack as a skid . . .

HOLY MACKEREL, HAHA. VERY nice job finding that one. Congratulations. I'm sorry we weren't able to help more.

I have nooooo clue. Sorry. Let's see if somebody else has an idea . . .

Here's the throttle linkage. The piece I outlined in red is the piece I had to make. It's just a piece of aluminum cut to length, really no big deal. The second hole is where I had a hand throttle connected but have since removed. You will need to cut it only up to where I have drawn the blue...

Ok, I'm sorry, I lied. It's 1937. Here's where I got mine. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3575Y&mfrcode=MRG&mfrpartnumber=1937 I'll take a picture of the throttle linkage on mine and have it posted shortly. As far as the rebuild kit goes. I got mine from O'Reily's...