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Well good news, I tested the coil manually and couldn't make it spark, yet it passed the ohms test. Went ahead and replaced it and it fired right up. Thanks for all the help in putting another jeep back on the road!

Will check out all of these things today. I tested the coil to cap wire and it comes out arond 6k ohms I believe it was. Would have to check again to be sure, but it seemed to be within limits. I will test the coil manually today and see what happens. For this test do I need the coil mounted to...

Well I changed the CPS sensor, but it did not restore spark. I removed the coil and tested it per the instructions I found here: How to Test the Ignition Coil on a 1993 Jeep Cherokee | eHow.com and if this is correct, the coil appears to be good. What else could be causing no spark? I checked...

Well I've got some more time to work on this jeep again so I'v got it in the garage ready to start replacing. I went ahead and checked computer codes, and all I get is a code 55 and it doesn't repeat for me. I still have a feeling its the CPS, so were going to replace that first.

The meter I'm using is digital and has no range selection, it does that automatically. Thats why I was curious if this meant that over 10k ohms is good, even though it its not exactly infinite. How do you retrieve the codes using the "key method"? I'm not at all familiar with this model of jeep.

I am working on my neighbors 93 that just suddenly quit running much like my own 88 with a bad cps several months ago. The problems sounded the same so I checked it out. According to the manual I'm supposed to get infinite resistant between the B and C terminals. I tested this as per a diagram...

I recently got my jeep running again, so I decided to change all fluids before winter came since its been sitting a good long while. I changed both the differentials oil, and now it appears I have a leak from the drivers side front axle seal. Its leaking oil right behind the brake rotor it looks...

Isn't changing the leaf springs a big pain in the ass? From the looks of it I'm guessing just about every bolt I have is going to be rusted in and break off. Sadly if something breaks off during the removal process, it would really make the jeep no longer worth the money to fix since I can't...

My 88 cherokee is pretty worn out i'll admit, but I'd like to keep it in descent shape to be a daily driver when needed. I see shocks are insanely cheap so I'll be replacing those shortly. Something I notice is that the rear end is sagging pretty badly. It looks like the leaf springs are almost...

Yea defiantly did not have one like that in the front. I was at the parts store this morning and the friction additive was only about $3 so I bought it. Reading the package it says its good for all gear boxes not just limited slip differentials, so I figure I'll put it in the rear just to safe...

I don't honestly plan on this jeep lasting past another transmission fluid change, so I didn't worry about finding a reusable gasket. There was no gasket on the differential when I took it off, but it lists them online, so I was going to use the proper one, but the store was out of stock. Since...

I have an 88 cherokee, 4.0L inline 6, automatic trans. Personally I'm not experienced with differentials, all my vehicles are FWD. I am changing the front and rear differential oils, and I'm wondering if I need to add the friction modifier additive for limited slip. I have not yet taken the rear...

Yea everything I'v been reading so far says to use no sealant with a rubber style gasket. Just kinda throws me because it had a red sealant on there to begin with. Oh well I suppose, I'll clean it up best I can and try it with no sealer.

Since I finally got my 88 Cherokee running I am changing all the fluids before winter comes. I got a filter and gasket kit, the gasket is a nice thick rubber style one. Do you normally use a sealer with this? If so what do you use? I usually just use some RTV on most things I do, but this had...

Well she is running again. Turned out it was indeed a bad CPS. Replaced it and now its running good. Thanks for the help!

Thanks, just what I was looking for btw. I have tested the module already and its fine, I've even swapped it with it a known good one and still no spark. I tested the connections of the CPS and I get an infinite-330m omhs reading, so I'm guessing thats bad. Sucker sure is a pain in the ass to...

Thanks for the info. I have the 4.0L engine. I will check out the CPS. Just out of curiosity how does the CPS tie into the system? Does it send signal directly to the ignition module or to the ECM first? I have a feeling this isn't the problem, but I will check it anyway. What is so strange...

I'm at a complete loss on this issue. I've tried a new module, new coil, new module and coil together, nothing gets me spark. When the coil is removed from the module, I'm getting +12v of power at the coil connectors, even in the start position. Theres no question I'm getting power to the coil...