72 cj5 clutch cable

[72cj5]

Hello all,

Just wondering if anyone has any info/diagrams on how the cluth cable on a 72 cj5 is to be routed and the pieces needed. After a 350 conversion and a body lift, the z bar setup that the previous owner replaced the cable with doesn't want to work properly. I would like to go back to the cable. Any help would be appreciated

 

[avyoung]

There is not a cable. It runs off of a rod that goes throught the floor. and attatches to a bellcrank.

 

[72cj5]

Originaly this jeep was equiped with a cable. I have the pedal assembly which is different than the pedal assembly for the zbar set up with rod and I have a new cable, but there has to be something else underneith to hold the cable casing solid, just not sure how it would have been originally. But, I do know it was definatly a cable setup.

The problem I am having with the z bar is due to the body lift. The lift has thrown the geometry of the zbar out of wack. I have tried to lengthen the rod from the pedal to the z bar and it helped but didn't completley fix it. The only way I can see the fix the geometry problem is the move one of the ears for the zbar ( where the rods hook to the zbar), but I would be playing a guessing game for positioning. Another more costly option, would be going to a hydrolic clutch setup, but again there is a lot of fabrication work and quite a bit more money. With that being the case I would like to make the cable setup work, assuming I can find the right parts and the right configuration.

Thank you for trying to help though, I appreciate it!

 

[jackal]

Hello,
I had some of the same problems when I converted my 78 cj7 to a Chevy v8. I am a machinist and a welder , but I couldn't configure a set-up to work in the close confines of that area. I am also using fenderwell headers.
I ended up using a hydraulic set-up. You can get a Wilwood slave cylinder (pull type), a Wilwood master cylinder ( girling type) , and a steel-braided line kit (usually a Long-acre brand ) for about $135.

It is really cheap compared to having to rig up the mechanical linkage. With the mechanical linkage, it may bind if you get a lot of body flex, or could loose clutch travel.

With my old stock set-up I made a stainless z-bar linkage that was adjustable , and it had the captive-spherical-ball-end bearings to allow for twist and misalignment. When I went to the 350 chevy it changes all of that.

By the way on that stainless braided line, get the 36". It will have about 8" of hard line, and will give more room to route .

Check with some of the suppliers for circle track racing to get a good deal. Tell them what you are going to do, because some of the master cylinders won't work with clutch-slave cylinders.


Hope this helps, I had to spend a lot of time sorting out and researching this to get it to work correctly. I want to save others from the trouble I had to go through. If you want the part #'s and the place I ordered from
send me a message and I will send them to you. I alos have some short-cuts for bleeding the cylinders.

LAter,
Jackal 8) 8) 8)