accessing computer codes - again...

[nworbekim]

1072970

i searched this forum and found how to access the computer codes, but when i attempted to do so, i get nothing...

i don't like to ASSUME anything... but may i hope that no code is good news?

my '98 wrangler's been losing power, bringing me to a stop... idles REAL ruff, splutters, backfires, etc.... after a while, it cures itself and off we go.... like nothing ever happened....

like my beetles do when the points go... i suspected an electrical problem, but since there's no code.... maybe not...

is there any other way to access the codes?

thanks....[addsig]

 

[Mxpx182lit]

1072988

with the key in the off position, push in and hold the odometer reset button. Turn the key to run, not start, after you turn the key to start, not run, release the button. The odometer display, let us know what teh display shows.[addsig]

 

[jhiggins]

1072990

Here you go bud all I did is go to SEARCH and type in TUG and CODES:

Here is Tug's Post......

"Hope that this helps! Tug
Start with the ignition off. Within five seconds, switch the key on,
off, on, off, on. (On is not start!)

The "check engine" light will flash. Count the flashes
Each code is a two digit code, so a (for example) 23 would be
FLASH FLASH---FLASH FLASH FLASH

It will never flash more than 9 times, watch for pauses!

55 is end of codes, 33 is normal if you dont have air conditioning.

Please note that some codes are NOT included below, this
is not a complete listing, but it IS very close to complete.

88 Start of test (This only appears on DRBII, it's not blinked out)
11 No ignition reference signal detected during cranking (bad hall
effect)
OR timing belt skipped one or more teeth; or intermittent
loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor
12 Memory Standby power lost (battery cable disconnected)
13* No change in MAP from start to run
14* MAP sensor circuit open or shorted; voltage too low
15 No speed/distance sensor signal
16* Loss of battery voltage detected with engine running
17 Engine stays cold too long (bad thermostat)
21 Oxygen sensor signal out of range, possibly shorted
22* Coolant sensor signal out of range (or disconnected to set timing)
23 Intake air temperature signal out of range
24* Throttle position circuit out of range
25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted
or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found
26 Peak injector circuit voltage has not been reached
27 Logic module fuel circuit internal problem
OR
27 TBI injector does not respond properly to control signal
31 Evaporator Purge solenoid circuit open or shorted OR
Evaparator solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure OR
Power loss lamp open or shorted
33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted
34 Speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits open or shorted
35 Cooling fan relay circuit open or shorted
36 Wastegate control circuit open or shorted
37 Shift indicator light failure, 5-speed (blown bulb) OR
Park/neutral switch failure
OR
37 Torque converter unlock circuit open or shorted, A-413 4-speed auto
41* Alternator field control circuit open or shorted
42 Automatic shutdown relay circuit open or shorted
42 Fuel pump relay control circuit
42 Fuel level unit - no change over miles
OR
42 Z1 voltage missing when autoshutdown circuit energized (whatever
that means)
43 Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
OR
43 Cylinder misfire
43 Problem in power module to logic module interface
44 No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR
44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR
44 Battery temperature out of range (see Note #1!)
45 Turbo boost limit exceeded (engine was shut down by logic module)
46* Battery voltage too high during charging or charging system
voltage too low
47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low
51 Oxygen sensor stuck at lean position
OR
51 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
52 Oxygen sensor stuck at rich position
OR
52 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
53 Logic module internal problem
54 No sync pickup signal during engine rotation (turbo only)
OR
54 Internal logic module fault ('84 turbo only)
55 End of codes
61 "baro" sensor open or shorted
62 EMR mileage cannot be stored in EEPROM
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 Controller cannot write to EEPROM
64 Catalytic converter efficiency failure
65 Power steering switch failure

[addsig]

 

[nworbekim]

1073057

i found these instructions earlier and when i followed this procedure, the dash display appeared to cycle thru some type of reset pattern...
the speedometer indicator jumped, the tachometer indicator jumped,

i can't remember if the fuel/amp/temp did or not...

the other lights then flashed on/off....

the numbers on the odometer cycled all zeros, ones, twos, etc.... then stopped again at all zeros...

then it showed the mileage, 46K+/-....

i didn't observe anything that would indicate an error code of any kind...

thanks....

[addsig]

 

[nworbekim]

1073060

i also found his post and printed it...

when i attempted this procedure, i see nothing happening.... maybe this indicates there has been no error code logged.... good news?

the vehicle is behaving normally at this time...

as this appears to be an intermittent problem, i suppose i'll have to wait until it completely breaks to find what it is...

gotta make sure my triple A dues are up to day (grimace)...

many thanks...[addsig]

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

1073068

The reason your guage cluster cycled though all the numbers and needles is because you're not supposed to release the odometer reset button while the key is in the on position. You need to keep holding it in, turn the key back off, THEN release the button and the trouble code will appear.

I know this works on '98s, and the on-off-on-off-on-off-on does not:

• With key off, push and hold the odometer reset button
• Turn key to on position (not start) and back to off, without releasing odometer reset button
• Release the odometer reset button once key is in off position, trouble code will display in odometer

edited by: Bounty__Hunter, Jun 25, 2003 - 11:23 AM[addsig]

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

1073071

This thread is another reason why you should take all advice given on the web with a grain of salt, as there are incorrect instructions given twice :-O Not putting anybody down, I just want people to realize that there may be higher stakes than just checking trouble codes, so be sure of your advice before you give it, and be sure of the accuracy of advice before you pass that point of no return if it's you asking the question and working on the Jeep.

There was a great "Trail Head" article in the last JP magazine, July '03. An interesting excerpt:

There's a lot of information available to the computer user; unfortunately, there is also a lot of misinformation, especially on some of the 4x4 and Jeep Web site forums. A thread will usually start out with a typical question like "What's the best lift kit for my new Jeep?" Then without even asking what this poor guy wants to do with his Jeep, he'll get slammed with eight different answers ranging from "Don't lift it, you'll ruin your Jeep!" to "Every kit sucks, so buy a welder and build it yourself!" and "Beat it, Newbie!" Of course, the answer will vary depending on what site you're on, but the unfortunate part is that whoever responds often only has experience with one lift manufacturer, or even worse, his brother's doctor's girlfriend's father had that lift, and it's all bent up after just driving on a dirt road to Grandma's house. Of course, the part about a head-on collision with a tree at 90mh was left out.

Check this out, in the same article:

The most entertaining forum rating system counts the number of posts you've made and plasters you with a rank. This system encourages you post often, whether you know what you are talking about or not. Post away with your propaganda about how drag slicks are better mud tires than anything else available and tell 'em how your open-diffed Jeep will go "anywhere". In no time, you'll be given the coveted rank of "Wheeling God."

Don't take adivce as gospel just because somebody has a high number of posts or some cool rank, it wasn't earned by education or skills testing :lol: But, you can give more weight to advice from a user once you are familiar with that user and know how accurate they have been in the past.

Good article, and JP is a cool rag, you should check it out.

edited by: Bounty__Hunter, Jun 25, 2003 - 11:45 AM[addsig]

 

[nworbekim]

1073090

many thanks! worked perfectly.... shows 2.4....

are the error codes listed up thread legit for my unit? if so, throttle position out of range ....

not sure what that is, but i'm going to find out....

seeya!

[addsig]

 

[Mxpx182lit]

1073099

Hey,
Sorry for the incorect info buddy, my mistake. My 99TJ also just threw a 2.4 at me? What does this mean? Could it have anything to do with why it is shaking at highway speeds now? Thanks
Justin[addsig]

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

1073117

Replace the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), it's on the back of the throttle body, the firewall side. Easy to replace.

It could be what's causing your shaking, as the engine struggles to make power.[addsig]

 

[nworbekim]

1073143

VERY STRANGE THINGS GOING ON HERE!!!

This afternoon, i was headed fer my workout and the @#$@#$ thing went down on me again... not once, but THREE times!!!

i finally called a mechanic friend and after hearing the symptoms suggested that while it was idling, i go to the backend of the jeep and beat on the bottom of the gas tank near the area where there is a circular shape....

i did, it straightened up and i got home without incident....

is it possible the fuel pump is sticking and causing this, but the computer is mistaken and sending the wrong code?

needless to say, i'm plumb BAFFLED....

[addsig]

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

1073291

I wouldn't say it threw a wrong code, but you fixed one problem and have another. What'd your mechanic friend think the problem was when he told you to hit the tank?[addsig]

 

[nworbekim]

1073321

he's afraid its the fuel pump... says he's seen them stick lots of times and this trick will work for a little while.... but he's also saying that the sensor is probably bad too, cause he doesn't remember the fuel pump malfunction causing an error to be logged... though he thinks its odd that its happened in 46K miles...

i seem to remember seeing elsewhere in this forum (i think this one) someone else had a combo problem with the TPS & the fuel pump at the same time...

maybe one malfunction causes a string of others down stream...

anyway, we begin the project shortly....

thanks...[addsig]

 

[Teksyn]

1073399

Sounds exactly like what my 98 tj is doing. I changed the tps, but it still does it. Please let me know if you find the problem.

Chad[addsig]

 

[K_K_PSI_GUY]

1073409

In my opinion, it sounds like the fuel filter. Unfortunately for you, I beleive the filter is in the tank, which explains why after "beating it", it worked fine. TPS sensor would give you a code AND keep it stored in the computers memory. If your whenever your Jeeps starts acting up, have sombody turn the ignition key to the "ON" position, but do not turn the Jeep on. Get close to the gas tank and listen to see if the fuel pump gets energized. It should. Like I said, in my opinion, it is probably going to be you fuel filter. Hope this helps.-Al[addsig]