Axle swap

[GaryMB]

RE: XJ Videos

I'm doing an axle swap into my CJ7 in a couple weeks. I've decided to go with a dana 44 in the front and at least a dana 44 in the rear. I would really like to get a ford 8.8" to put in the rear, but don't know how I would work out the lug pattern issue. Right now there is a 1979 IH Scout II at the junk yard with front and rear dana 44's $150 each, and since they are actually available and I havn't seen any other compatible axles around, I'm leaning towards them. Plus I could keep my rims with the 5x5.5" bolt pattern. However, I would be willing to hold out a little longer for an 8.8 if I could just find a way to change the lug pattern to 5.5", or at least 6.5" to match a wagoneer front end...which brings me to my question, aside from asking if the scout axles are a good idea, how hard would it be to change the lug pattern/spacing on a ford 8.8? Any idea on cost? I know that a D60 will be suggested here, but I'm trying to keep width and weight down. Oh, and if anyone has noticed my several threads that I've posted lately...I've decided to to a frame-up restoration on the CJ7. The major plans include: 4.0L/4.6L(stroker), NV3550, D300, d44 frt, d44/8.8 rr, 4-4.5" sua, shackle reversal, eaton elockers, 4.11/4.56, 33 or 35" tires. It will be a weekend warrior/daily driver.

 

[Snitty]

Since you would likely be moving spring perches on the front, make sure you get proper caster

 

[redrooster]

Sounds like a fun project. I would like to suggest one other thing if you are going the full frame up route. It's a little pricey, but well worth it. A friend of mine did a full frame up on his FJ40 and had the entire tub sandblasted then took it down and had the underside, engine side of the firewall and interior Rhino lined. It looks good and will help insure to keep it rust free for a long time. I have no idea what they charged him, but it's worth it if you plan to have the vehicle forever.
The axles will work well under there if you plan on keeping the tires under 35". I rode my 44's hard and thus was not happy with them. I had one broken rear and two broken fronts in 3 trail rides. I even bent the rear housing at one point. I'm hard on stuff though. My CJ is sporting a cracked frame by the t-case right now.

 

[GaryMB]

The same friend that offered to paint my cj for free offered to lend me his sand blaster, so that should work out nicely. The bed liner sounds like a good idea...the CJ is being built on a budget though, so I'm leaning more towards the DIY bed liners (maybe herculiner?). Also, what size tire were you running when you broke your D44's? I'll be locking up the front and rear and will be wheeling it pretty hard with 35's, so if that's pushing it for a d44...it might be worth the extra $$ to change the lug pattern on the 8.8, since I don't want to invest the money in selectable lockers for a 44 if it is just going to break. For the shackle reversal, I wonder if I could have the front of the front springs right up against the frame to help with clearance and just rotate the spring perches to bring the pinion back up. I'll be rotating the knuckles to get the caster right. Oh, one more question: red, mineral gray, or black (original color)?

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

RE: Gross/large Vacuum leak

Is the 8.8 all that much stronger than a D44?

I recommend going with the Waggy front D44 so you don't have to mess with rotating the knuckles for proper caster. A D44 rear from an Isuzu will give you the same 6-lug pattern and disc brakes, with a comparable width to the front. Should hold up to being locked with 35"s just fine.

I've got this combo for my YJ, waiting to regear to 5.38 and spools.

 

[redrooster]

What's that about?

I think you will be fine with 35's on there. I had 35 boggers and then went to 38 SX's. The 38's finished them off. (awesome ground clearance though). The price is pretty good on the axles.
The front axle has to be trimmed by the cast center section and ground flat for a perch if you do a spring over even with the springs outside the frame rails.
I think you need to set up the suspension shackles, hangers, and all and get it level with the rear. Use tack welds only as you might have to change lengths. After you have the suspension set how you want it and have checked to make sure it is level, then pull the axle back out and do the cut and turn to get the caster correct. If you move the front axle forward any during the shackle reversal then be sure to check your steering geometry.
BTW...high steer arms aren't available for the scout axles that I know of...something to consider.
The more I type the more it becomes a question as to why anyone would run scouts. It's time consuming to set up that front end when all you would have to do is buy some Waggy 44's and a set of wheels. The cut and turn will probably cost as much as the wheels.

 

[Junkpile]

I run SUA on my CJ, and most of the other people I know of who run the Scout II axles are SUA too. At 4-5" of suspension lift, the Scout front isn't too bad once you get used to it. It's about $300-$500 to have one cut and turned around here. Alot of people run the Scout II rear with a widetrack D30 front also.

Hey, I guess you do with what you've got. I bought both of my axles, the driveshafts, and the Tcase for $200 total. Scout axles weren't my first choice, but for the money they will do fine. Upgrading to something else later on is easy after you do the work to put in the Scout D44s.

 

[yjdave]

Go buy the scout rear end and them spend the money you would have on the front 44 and upgrade the D30 axles to the bigger u-joint. You dont have to get the alloy one's yet. If you wheel with your head(the one above your shoulders) you'll be fine with either 33s or 35s. If your set on the 44s f/r you can shorten the front waggy by putting scout outers on it with cj disc. Thats what i did, but kinda spendy.

 

[Junkpile]

I've got CJ D30 outers on my Scout II D44. The Scoutt II stubs are just like the CJ stubs. You could probably use CJ D30 outer knuckles on the SJ D44, and combine SJ inner shafts with the Scout II stub shafts. The D30 knuckle isn't as beefy maybe, but it bolts to the D44 housing and you can retain your lug pattern, current brakes, and use lengthened CJ parts for steering....MAYBE?

 

[GaryMB]

RE: "Dune Fest"-Winchester Bay, OR.

Would it be possible to rotate the knuckles myself? Or do they need to be pressed off and then pressed back on? The junk yards around here don't have any waggy front ends with the diff on the passenger side. As for upgrading the dana 30, that's something I'll consider, but would like to look into the d44 front a little more.

 

[GaryMB]

RE: We made it to Mass now need parts

Scratch that...someone bought the scout front end before I got to it, and I didn't bother with the rear end since there's no gaurantees I'll find another scout front end before I find a waggy front and izusu rear.