Battery Isolator Stinger SGP32 wiring

[Turbogus]

Howdy from Oregon folks

Well, after getting a second battery mounted up with minimal space under the hood of these old CJ's I got me this here Stinger SGP32 isolator rated at 200 amps so if I ever upgrade my alternator I'm already set.

The trouble is, I'm trying to wrap my head around what the instructions mean by "Connect one samll terminal to true ignition power from your ignition harness. When tested, true ignition will keep power through the cranking cycle of your starter. Verify that your power source is true ignition"

From another forum one poster remarked that this'd be the power wire from the alternator, (that feeds the starter relay, if I'm correct)

Since I have more faith in the kindly folks here I thought I'd run this by y'all and see what your think, before I burn up any wiring. :sawzall:

Thanks, and a lift of the lynch lid for your response.

 

[phall92139]

When in doubt, search the manufacture's web site...http://www.stingerelectronics.com/images/pdfs/SGP32-35 Installation.pdf

It looks like they're saying either from the "hot" side of the ignition switch or the fuse box.

 

[Turbogus]

Hi Phil, hope yer doing okay. I've read and re-read their procedure and even ran it by a local auto shop and we both found it odd, however I seem to recall a post about using a battery solenoid for a switching isolator. Perhaps this is what is leading to my confusion, as I recall on my conventional old school large footprint isolator in my van the small terminal goes to the alternator hot line.

Luckily I found a tapped circuit that runs my electric choke on my Carter AFB, shows 10.4v key on starter off, and cranking there's a spike of 11.4v so I think that's the circuit I'm after. Given that, I think it's the original hot line from the starter solenoid stays in place to the primary battery, is this right?

 

[phall92139]

I am far (and I mean far, far away) from being an automotive electric guru but I am thinking an appropriately sized wire ran from the "IGN" terminal of your rig's fuse box or any fuse that is hot only when the key is on is going to do the trick. You can always install an inline fuse if one isn't available at your power source.

Read more: How to Install a Battery Isolator Switch | eHow.com

 

[Turbogus]

Cool, thanks Phil, you're the great one!

 

[Turbogus]

So IF I'm following the flow of current properly.............

1. The charging current flows from the Alternator to the Starter Solenoid just as O.E.
2. Then the charging current flows through the Solenoid to the O.E. cable connection to the Main Battery +.
3. Then the NEW added cable from the battery + to the Stinger.
4. Then the Stinger trickle charges the Aux. Battery +.

Am I following this correctly?

 

[phall92139]

When the vehicle is running ("true ignition source" key on) both batteries are electrically connected and will charge simultaneously from the alternator. It is not a "trickle" charge but whatever your alternator puts out. With the key off, the batteries are electronically disconnected from each other.

 

[Turbogus]

Once again, thanks so much Phil for helping me out of my confusion. I'm just as confused when I look for logic in algebra.

 

[Turbogus]

Finishing up my battery wiring with these here slick termianl covers;

....super pliable and for only $2.94 each!