Hello All, new member here with a quick question. Recently got a 87 yj for my son (x-mas gift) as a father/son project. He'll be 15 in April so we have a little over a year to build it. My problem is the first two body mount bolts twisted off (the back ones that mount to the rear crossmember). Haven't tried any more yet. We are replacing the rear crossmember and possibly the gas tank skid plate as well. What is the best fix for this problem? Are the nuts to these bolts part of the tub? I was planning on going with the 1" poly body lift and a 4" rough country susp. lift. The only way it seems I could access the nut end is thru the tail lamp opening but this won't help if the threads are in the tub? We currently have the axle, old springs, and old shocks out as we intend to por 15 everything. Thanks to all who can help. ps I'm hooked! When I'm done with this one I want one for me!!! Just wish I knew to steer clear of the puegot transmission!
body lift problem
- Thread starter diverdr
- Start date
I had the same problem when I did my body lift. If I remember correctly the nut was held in place by a couple of tabs that held it on either side. If you put too much torque on it, the tabs will bend and the nut will just spin which is what happened to me. We had to go up through underneath the jeep below the tail light and cut a hole with a torch in order to pull out the old nut and replace it with a new one which we tack welded in place. It got so hot it caught my paint on fire just below the tail light. A dremel or small cutting tool probably would've been a safer route to go. After having this problem, we decided to soak the rest in Liquid Wrench and some other stuff (can't remember what) a couple of times for about a week before we removed them. We also hit the ends of the bolts with an air hammer to loosen up the rust each time. When removing the bolts, we used an impact gun which also seemed to help because of the vibration.
Snitty
New member
RE: engine swap
well... it seems that its all been touched on... might have to get in there to remove the nut from the tub.. once that is removed, i think you should just be able to pull it out.. since the nut is what it is threaded into... then you can either weld another nut in there.. or leave the access hole open to put another nut in there
well... it seems that its all been touched on... might have to get in there to remove the nut from the tub.. once that is removed, i think you should just be able to pull it out.. since the nut is what it is threaded into... then you can either weld another nut in there.. or leave the access hole open to put another nut in there
Snitty
New member
RE: Differential Questions
there is also a good penetrant called Kroil... that stuff is amazing
i used it while doing my soa... i put it in a metal jar with a lid on it.. and it all crept out... it WILL find its way into the tightest of spots... it is said to be able to creep into one millionth of an inch... not sure whether or not to believe THAT much... but i know its good stuff
there is also a good penetrant called Kroil... that stuff is amazing
i used it while doing my soa... i put it in a metal jar with a lid on it.. and it all crept out... it WILL find its way into the tightest of spots... it is said to be able to creep into one millionth of an inch... not sure whether or not to believe THAT much... but i know its good stuff
I broke one and spun the nut plates on 2 others. Soak the nut plates good with PB Blaster, or whatever, for a week or two. You'll need to drill a small hole either through the channel underneith or from above through the floor to hit the nut plates. When you go to remove them, try turning (eeking) the bolts back and forth several times to break the corrosion so you don't break the weld on the nut plate cages that hold the nut plates. If you do spin them, you'll have to cut the bolts, knock the plates and remainder of the bolts, out of the way and leave them inside the channel. Cut a finger hole in the side of the sheet channel or from the floor above to hold the replacement nut. You'll have to be creative in going after those buggers. I just put duct tape over the holes.
The rest is easy. I used the Daystar 1" kit. Lay all of your parts out first on the floor the way they'll be installed and do ONE SIDE AT A TIME. I used my High Lift Jack on my rocker guards stand offs to jack the body then I inserted wooden blocks between the body and frame for safty.
Let us know,
The rest is easy. I used the Daystar 1" kit. Lay all of your parts out first on the floor the way they'll be installed and do ONE SIDE AT A TIME. I used my High Lift Jack on my rocker guards stand offs to jack the body then I inserted wooden blocks between the body and frame for safty.
Let us know,
Re: RE: Differential Questions
Thanks a bunch for the feedback. I did spray with pb blaster but the problem is that the nut end is pretty much encapsulated and gravity cant help cause I'm spraying upsidedown. Think maybe I'll drill a small access hole to get the pbblaster to the nut on the rest and use a little more patience when working them out. At least I now know that there is no easier way then to cut access to get at the broken back bolts, sounds like about as much fun as cutting the rear crossmember off! Cant way to the fun part of installing shiny new parts instead of wrestling parts that have been rusting for 18 years! Thanks for everybodies help!
Thanks a bunch for the feedback. I did spray with pb blaster but the problem is that the nut end is pretty much encapsulated and gravity cant help cause I'm spraying upsidedown. Think maybe I'll drill a small access hole to get the pbblaster to the nut on the rest and use a little more patience when working them out. At least I now know that there is no easier way then to cut access to get at the broken back bolts, sounds like about as much fun as cutting the rear crossmember off! Cant way to the fun part of installing shiny new parts instead of wrestling parts that have been rusting for 18 years! Thanks for everybodies help!
My current CJ is the first Jeep I've ever run into this with. I was looking at alot of body work anyway, so I just drilled a 5/16" hole in the tub right beside the encapsulated nut plate and wedged a screwdriver in there to keep it from turning while I removed the bolt and installed the new one. Right now I have two little rubber plugs in the holes, but eventually I will drill holes under the nuts and weld them in place and then weld the other holes back solid to hide them. That was the easiest way I could think of without causing myself to have to do even more bodywork.
Similar threads
