bolt stuck!! BAD!!

sweetpeet

New member
I have a amc 360 that is on a engine stand and the two top bolts were too long(6"). so I was switching one of them to a grade 8 4" bolt and I forgot to loosen the bolt on the arm of the stand and half of the bolt broke off leaving about 1/2" of the bolt sticking out.

Does anyone have any idea how to get this out???
 

My thoughts from best to worst.
  1. Do you have enough threads to put 2 nuts on, jam nut them together, then back the broken bolt out?
  2. If your good with a welder, weld a nut on the end. Put a nut into the threads until it is 1/8" from being flush. Fill in this "pocket" with weld, then wrench it out.
  3. Ummm....drill and an easy-out?
  4. AND, I hate to say it, Vice-Grips. That would be my last resort.
Good luck, Brad
 
My thoughts from best to worst.
  1. Do you have enough threads to put 2 nuts on, jam nut them together, then back the broken bolt out?
  2. If your good with a welder, weld a nut on the end. Put a nut into the threads until it is 1/8" from being flush. Fill in this "pocket" with weld, then wrench it out.
  3. Ummm....drill and an easy-out?
  4. AND, I hate to say it, Vice-Grips. That would be my last resort.
Good luck, Brad

thanks!! im going to pray that 1 or 2 works. ill try it tomorrow
 

My thoughts from best to worst.
  1. Do you have enough threads to put 2 nuts on, jam nut them together, then back the broken bolt out?
  2. If your good with a welder, weld a nut on the end. Put a nut into the threads until it is 1/8" from being flush. Fill in this "pocket" with weld, then wrench it out.
  3. Ummm....drill and an easy-out?
  4. AND, I hate to say it, Vice-Grips. That would be my last resort.
Good luck, Brad

ok so I tried some things. #1 did not work because I dont have enough thread, tried a bolt remover but, then I really skrewed myself, it just striped the bolt, tried #4 the vice grip just slipped. so tomorrow im going to try to see if I can barrow a friend's wielder and ill wield a nut on.


so lets just say that all goes completely wrong. what options would I be left with? drill out and re-thread??
 
yes you are right. if that doesnt work you will probably have to drill and tap.if you have to drill out start with small bit and slowly work up to the size needed.broken drill bits are a nightmare to remove.[bigger than the one you already have]good luck
 
Just for added luck, why not soak that sucker with some real good creepy oil, like Kroil or PB Blaster and let it set overnight. Might help threads turn if you can get a nut welded on.
 

If you still have some stub sticking out, but the threads are trashed, you just made it a bit trickier. You might have to put an over sized nut "over" the bolt and weld it on. Like Phil said, soak it good with penetrating oil first. The added heat from the weld/oil combo might do the trick. I would avoid doing any drilling right now. If you still have bolt material sticking out, try to use it to your advantage. Later, good luck
 
If you still have some stub sticking out, but the threads are trashed, you just made it a bit trickier. You might have to put an over sized nut "over" the bolt and weld it on. Like Phil said, soak it good with penetrating oil first. The added heat from the weld/oil combo might do the trick. I would avoid doing any drilling right now. If you still have bolt material sticking out, try to use it to your advantage. Later, good luck


DON'T SOAK IT WITH OIL then try to weld it that makes a bad weld... weld first then soak it.... but if you weld it your heating the bolt so weld it get it HOT and get it out..
 
DON'T SOAK IT WITH OIL then try to weld it that makes a bad weld... weld first then soak it.... but if you weld it your heating the bolt so weld it get it HOT and get it out..

Easily enough to clean the area to be welded while still allowing the penetrating oil to work but either way will work.

If you heat the bolt while welding on a nut won't that cause the bolt to expand locking the threads even tighter into the surrounding metal? If you were using heat wouldn't you rather heat the area surrounding the bolt to cause it to expand enough to loosen it's grip on the bolt threads?
 

That is true Phil. My thoughts are that the heat alone will move the metal enough to bust the rust. But yes, heating the surrounding metal is better. Good catch!
 

team twisted is correct about the heat theory if you weld a nut on it it will be hot enough to get it out because the surounding area of the bolt itself will get heated by transfer of heat remember this dont get your block glowing its cast iron and it might crack pay attention to the bolt also pb blaster will not catch fire but it will choke you from the fumes
 
heat expands to moosh the threads...when it cools (shrinks) again usually it will turn out by hand. it's that dramatic of a shortcut.

heat the bolt not the block
 

If it were me.. and this is probably a little late, I would have cut a bit off the end of the exposed bolt to get a flat surface, center punched it and drilled out the bolt as far as I could. then I would have welded a nut on the end of the bolt since you could not double nut it. then I would have heated the block up and with a breaker bar slowly worked the bolt out.
 
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