Carbaration Blues Again.

T

Tug-n-pull

New member
OK went to rebuild the carb "stock 79 CJ 258ci 2 bbl Carter POS" Took it to an old time Jeep Doctor rather than booger it up myself. Well the man lookd it over and said "you don't need no stinking carb rebuild" you need a manifold gasket you are sucking air at the manifold. OK did that now it runs better but not great! Dialed the carb in cold and it will not run when the heat gets up in there. Dial it in there warm and it runs good but not in the woods at slow rpm's and runs crappy when it cools down. Hate to go out and spend the bucks but looks like a carb is on the list this week end. Weber 32/36 or 38/38 is the question now. Or is there a better choice out there. Holly truck advenger was mentioned by Bounty Hunter but it seems to large of a vcarb for my little 6. What is a hill~billy to do. Also plan to do the valve seals lifters and bridges while I am at it. If I ever get this ol jeep trail worthy I plan to stay out till she falls a part again. Tug
 

Motorcraft 2100 if you want a good carb for a CJ 258 without the high cost of a Weber.
 
Hello Tug,

I dunno...I have nothing against upgrading to a different carb from the stock BBD, but my CJ runs perfectly with a retrograde mod from the computer controlled BBD to the non-computer controlled version of the BBD (POS, notwithstanding), that is installed in your Tugly.

If your carb is in good working order and properly adjusted, that engine should run well -- assuming, of course, that the present carb is actually the one and only problem.

I will not get into the Weber Vs. Motorcraft debate where the argument is about performance. If the argument is based on cost, however, then I will jump into the fray.

It makes little sense to me to spend approximately a $400.00 on a new Weber carb for a 24-year old Jeep. Admittedly, that is just a personal opinion and all other opinions are equally valid.

Based on COST ONLY, and if you are determined to change carbs, then I would agree with Bounty, because you should be able to get a good Motorcraft 2100 from a salvage yard.

If you decide to go Motorcraft, then you might want to look at this web article about swapping a Motorcraft 2150 for the BBD at an approximate total cost of $100.00.

http://www.tricountyweldingsupply.com/carb/carb.htm

The author's reasons for going with the Motorcraft 2150 instead of the 2100 are explained in the article.

Regards,

Gadget
 
You should definitely get rid of that carter. No matter how many times you rebuild them or replace them, theyre still hellish.

I peronally find the weber pretty reliable, but I'd immagine that compared to carter, a windex bottle and a toilet paper tube would make a more reliable carberator. :D

Don't know much of anything about the motocraft carb. If its reliable then why the hell not? You'll have to let us know how it works out either way.
 

Yea tug you should be able to get her to run right with even a Carter. I haven't met one that couldn't be made to run right, unless the throttle bushing were worn and caused a Vaccum leak.

Make sure the emultion tube isn't dripping. (get a set of torch tip cleaners. I am sure you have some since you boys weld) Take off that piece off BEEP, and clean all venturies out with your "new carb cleaning tool." You will find several venturies to clean when you get the top part off. Take off the float bowl and inspect the float, and clean to ensure there isn't a spec of bark hiding in there. (This is a fun mid-trail job too, when it idles but boggs with any pedal)

Listen to Gadget!!

All of which is free, and should be done any ways. So Now you have half of your Saturday planned, what else are you going to do?? :lol:
 
what Motorcraft carb should be used on a 1981 CJ5 with the 258? The 2100 or the 2150? Can you buy these brand new or just used? Time to get rid of the Carter, please help.
 
Happy Paragon Trails

Hello 1981CJ5,

As I understand the situation, the 2105 is a later model carb than the 2100. The 2105 was a bit more sophisticated in that it incorporated built-in altitude compensation.

Depending on where you live and Jeep, the altitude compensation feature could be a meaningless or an important consideration.

You should be able to buy either model new, rebuilt or used. If you go new or rebuilt, however, then much of the cost advantage vice going with a new Weber goes down the drain.

Regards,

Gadget
 

tug, i've dealt with the carter and made it work.
gadget and bakedalaskan have covered all the bases!
 
Painting TJ Fender Flares

Thanks everyone for the in put and will be doing either the Weber or MC2100 asap. Just have so many areas of need right now I keep puttin the carb a bit back on the burner so to speak. I have tuned in the carter to a point that it idles good and is a good ruuning road jeep just sucks off road at low rpms. Still dies at the stop if you dont feather the throttle a bit but can deal with that. I will be looking to get it going soon. Bought a valve cover at the junk yard and have it all cleaned up and painted so plan to do the valve seals lifters and bridges this week to stop the oil burn at start up. Will be calling the local carb shops in search of a used or rebuilt MC2100 or MC2105 at a good deal. Like some one said a 400 buck carb on this ol jeep is a bunch when it has so many built in projects. This is what makes Jeepz so nice just finding the answers and folks willing to help out. Again thanks to the members here. tug
 

87 Wrangler

Also which vehicles and what year models can these be found on?
 
thanks

Hello RedWrang,

Here are a few hyper-links that should give you adequate background in Motorcraft (Autolite) 2100 source/donor vehicles, rebuilding and installation hints:

http://www.advanceautoparts.com/how...edia_html/pht/pht20020301cr/pht20020301cr.htm

http://www.rocktaxi.com/motocraft/42carbswap.html

http://home.earthlink.net/~bubbaf250/2150carb/carb01.html

A "Google" search on "Motorcraft 2100" will provide you with a ton of additional links.

RedWrang, please be aware that my posts above were given in the limited context of answering Tug's question as regards his 1979 CJ-7. My answers regarding carburetion modifications were meant to apply only to the non-computer controlled 4.2L, I-6. My opinions should not be applied to your computer-controlled Jeep 4.2 I-6 engine (assuming you have that engine) absent YOUR independent verification and research.

I bring that caveat to your attention because your Jeep has (or at least once had) a computer; whereas, Tug's Jeep does not have and never did have a computer.

That said, I hope the above proves helpful.

Regards,

Gadget
 
I'm not gonna get into the argument of which carb is better, but I put a Holley 2300 series 350cfm two barrell on mine and LOVE IT! It is easy to tune and adjust. I changed out jets three times last week to see which ones worked best and I can change jets in about five minutes. I bought mine from Jegs and the adapter plate from Summit. Everything total turned out at just over $300.
 

I don't know where some of you guys get your prices. But a brand new Weber in the Box with everything you need. I got for $175.00 and it works great. I looked a the motocraft but you also have to find an adapter plate for it.
 
I believe that all YJ's have a computer. The computers made their way into Jeeps sometime in the early 80's. My 79 CJ doesn't have one, but I know shortly thereafter they do.
 

Pray tell where do I get one of these $175.00 Webers I will order one in the morning if I get the source. So far for me it has been a 300.00 range at best. tug
 
I'm not sure, but i suspect that this $175 weber might have been for JUST the carb and not for the associated kit with adaptor plate, hoses, and filter.
 
The computer controlled Carters appeared in 1983 and were on all carb equiped jeeps until fuel injection was added. You should see an electrical wire harness attached to the back of the carb.
 
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