dual steering stabilizers for tj

freebird2

New member
So, I'm getting the ORO U-turn steering system and I'd like to put dual steering stabilizers on it. Anybody have any good ideas and suggestions. I can't find any right now.
 

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That's a nice setup, i just dont understand why you need a dual steering stabilizer with 31" tires. Isn't that a bit overkill?
 
I'm going with baja claws 33 X 12.5 R 17 as soon as the steering system comes in. I'm getting serious death wooble with just the stock tie rod and drag line and aftermarket steering stabilizer. I've balanced and rotated and aligned the toe in and steering is striaght, still getting death wooble with just 31's. I don't know whats going on. Everytime I go 55 mph and I hit a bumb it is out of control wobble. Also It looks like my jeep is leaning to the left 1/2-3/4 in. Anybody got any help for this?
 
The lean could be a collapsed coil spring or weak, shock that's not helping the full rebound on the normal laden position. When did it start leaning?. Often, when a suspension upgrade has been done, the lateral arms(upper and lower) must be torqued to specs at it's laden position, not on jackstands. Adding an extra steering stabilizer will just mask the wobble a little bit but will not fix it. A vehicle that has a lean will not have a proper alignment.
 

I just noticed the lean about 1 week ago right after the DW.
 
The Coil springs are very new and havent been off road at all, the Shocks are also new. There is a 1 inch lean to the passenger side.
 

First, you need to figure out what's causing the lean by using a tape measure. Measure frame to axle on each corner , body to ground. Compare the front difference in height and see what your possible causes are. Check the frame as well for signs of tweaking.
 
Front Axle to Frame is 3/4 less on the passenger side Front Body is also 3/4 less passenger side.
Rear axle to Frame is 1/4 less passenger side rear body is also 1/4 less on passenger side.

I adjusted my shocks to there firmest position and it helped a little bit.
I have short arms for lower front and back and adjustable uppers in the rear. I checked the threads in the rear and they are the same on both sides. Is this what you are talking about for tweaking?
 
Don't do the dual stabilizers, not needed for 33" tires and is just a band-aid fix to cover up the real cause of the death wobble.

With the jeep idling, have a friend turn the steering wheel to full-lock one direction. Then have them bounce the steering wheel back and forth against full-lock while you watch the front trackbar for play in either end.

As for the lean, check the bottom of each front coil where it indexes in the spring pad, make sure the tip of the coil sits correctly in the hole where it is supposed to be. I would also measure both coils to see if there is a difference in compressed length.
 

passenger Front Coil spring is 1/2 less the driver and the rear passenger is less than a 1/4 in than driver here are some photos. Also the front right and left coil butt up against the bottom and seem to be in place.
 

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I turn it on idle and turned the wheel to the locked position on both sides and watched the track bar. It is making a hissing noise when it gets to the full locked position on both sides. As far as play, no play on the passenger side but on the drivers side it has a minor movement to it, a slight rotation at the joint and on the track bar moves slightly up and down when rocking the wheel. Seems to be normal but I'm not sure.
 
I've been reading alot a post on DW and I've checked all joints and bumb stops and they all seem to be alright. Don't have adjustable uppers in the front and the kit came with fixed short arms for the lower. I'm thinking the caster or camber may be off. Any tips on correctly checking for this? And is the only way to tweak this with adjustable uppers?
I've got new tires coming in and I don't won't them to just wear out when DW comes back again.
 

You can make small adjustments to caster with cam bolts at the axle end of the lower control arms. They came standard on older TJ's but not on the newer ones like yours. You can get them at the dealership. This is what they look like:
image-missing.png


Available here also: Poly Performance Inc. PPM-8004 - Poly Performance Control Arm Cam Bolt Kit for 07-09 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

If you need larger adjustments to your caster than the cam bolts will allow, you will need adjustable upper control arms.

Forget about camber, that's the top of the tires leaning in or out if you were looking at the jeep from the front. Camber has nothing to do with your DW.
 
These are the factory specified settings for your Jeep, however, since you've installed the lift kit and other suspension upgrades , these numbers may need some minor tweaking.
NOTE: Alignment specifications are in degrees.
SPECIFICATIONS

DESCRIPTION</B>

SPECIFICATION</B>

PREFERRED CASTER + 7.0° CAMBER (fixed angle) – 0.25° TOTAL TOE-IN + 0.15° (each front wheel) RANGE ±1.0° ± 0.63° ±0.06° MAX RT/LT DIFFERENCE 0.65° ±1.0° .06° REAR SPECIFICATION PREFERRED N/A REAR CAMBER –0.25° TOTAL TOE-IN +0.25° RANGE N/A 0° to –.50° 0° to .5° THRUST ANGLE 0° ± 0.25°
 

It looks like my passenger side is a few degrees more than my drivers side.
 
Bounty_Hunter suggested that caster correction bolts. That will ultimately fine tune the caster adjustments, however, again with the lift kit, if the correction bolts is not enough, you may need to get an adjustable lower control arms if you want to get in to this deeper. Caster does not affect tire wear, Camber and toe does. Caster however will contribute to the DW issue.
 
Ran into my alignment guy at the store when I was going to pick up some cam bolts.
He stopped me and said my caster was good and everything else lined up as well. he suggested to me again that the new steering system should do the trick.
 

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I measured the caster on the bottom of both knuckels on each side and my passenger side is 6.5 degrees and my driverside is 7.6 degress with 4 inch lift.
 
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