Emergency Brake

[JPNinPA]

Okay so today my emergency brake stopped working. A few weeks ago I noticed it didn't catch as well on three clicks. Then on four it barley held the jeep a week later. So I jacked the back up and adjusted the brake at the rotor like normal. Set the brake to two clicks and adjust each brake at the rotor until the wheel no longer spins or moves without some force. Then verify the wheels spin without drag when the brake is released. Seemed fine until today.

Today wIth all five clicks it it didn't hold anything. I crawled under and see slack in the cable so I soaked the tensioner adjuster with PB blaster to take the slack out. I've never had to do this on any vehicle. Normally I just need to adjust at the rotor or drum. So tomorrow I plan on pulling the rotors to inspect pads, linkage and cables I'll adjust the pads if needed.
When this happened there wasn't any anomaly like a snap, bang. Nor did I drive around with the brake set.


Is there anything else I should be looking out for?

Anyone else have this happen?

 

[TLCJ5]

Yes,I've seen stretch in the cable cause slack. Never a bad idea to check the drums,but my guess is tightening the cable should do the trick.

 

[JPNinPA]

So 8 yrs on the same pads too long??? Note the e-brake pad in the rotor. Note app. 40%of the shoe under the pad rusted. More than 1/2 inch slop in the line fully released.

 

[greg92jeepxj]

Thanks for the pictures . The last four wheel disc brake job I did , a 2002 Ford Explorer , had rotors worse than that . They were dura last. But the owner does have a heavy foot . The parking brake material was missing completely and she had no idea why. I told her to get a set of parking brake shoes but being its auto trans she said she dosen't use them. I put the rotors on all four wheels with new pads and left the decision to her regarding the parking brake shoes. The brake cables on her truck were fine since they're never used (go figure) but the adjustment looked frozen and would take some work to try to resurrect . Hope your cable fares better . Your jeep must be manual trans and you use the parking brake daily . That would explain the cable stretch . Wondering how the main cable from the parking brake is as well. That would be the only thing I can think of . I would think the adjuster will take up the slack (slop) and the cables don't look frayed so I'd say you can continue to use them . Whatever your using to lube the cable sleeves must be working . Even cables that are exercised regularly as yours most likely are still need lube as your doing or they will seize . The lube obviously kept them from rusting and snapping too. Good job considering the harsh winters you encounter. Most people use wd - 40 if they even use anything . Just wondering if you've got something better.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

What year is your Jeep? You've got the TJ rust pretty bad.

 

[69jeepcj]

Agree with the others that you cable has stretched. You will probably be replacing it sometime in the not so far off future. I have been dealing with cable issues on my jeeps clutch for a long time. When they start stretching they ususally start to break not long after, usually coming unfrayed inside the cable casing and one day you will go to release it and it wont release because It is all jammed up inside the casing. As others have said, I would tighten the adjuster, lube it VERY well and just keep in mind it may go soon.

 

[JPNinPA]

What year is your Jeep? You've got the TJ rust pretty bad.

It's an 05 DD driven in Pa and OH where winters are salt laden.
The adjuster is corroded fairly bad along with any exposed metal.

Your jeep must be manual trans and you use the parking brake daily . That would explain the cable stretch . Wondering how the main cable from the parking brake is as well. Even cables that are exercised regularly as yours most likely are still need lube as your doing or they will seize . The lube obviously kept them from rusting and snapping too. Good job considering the harsh winters you encounter. Most people use wd - 40 if they even use anything . Just wondering if you've got something better.

It is a manual tran.s I plan on pulling the console to look at the top end. Ilł snap a pic.
Iit's not the winter as much as it is all the salt used to keep the roads clear.
The cables are coated and I use lithium grease.

Agree with the others that you cable has stretched. You will probably be replacing it sometime in the not so far off future. I have been dealing with cable issues on my jeeps clutch for a long time. When they start stretching they ususally start to break not long after, usually coming unfrayed inside the cable casing and one day you will go to release it and it wont release because It is all jammed up inside the casing. As others have said, I would tighten the adjuster, lube it VERY well and just keep in mind it may go soon.

This is exactly what I'm concerned about. I know I could adjust the brakes and I did. The catch point changed too often and has me concerned. I have owned several manual trans vehicles and never needed to tighten the slack adjuster. I'm changing the e-brake pads and giving it a day to decide if cables will be ordered.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I just pulled the transmission from an '05 Rubicon and it had similar rust issues. Tub seams and frame welds were the worst. YJ's were never that bad so it seems Chrysler changed something for the worse.

 

[JPNinPA]

Well replaced the e-brake pads and hardware. Comparing the used pads to new shows little wear, on the old ones. The glue just gave out. But sadly after adjusting the new pads the cable continues to stretch. There is just as much play now as I shown above after adjusting over 1/2 in out of the cable. Even after adjusting the cable it didn't hold. I guess I'll be changing the cable as 69jeepcj mentioned above. Kind of knew something was up with all the slack in the line, I just didn't want to believe it.

 

[JPNinPA]

Ok so I did my brakes today front and back? All new rotors , pads and hardware. Even bled out all the old brake fluid. BTW last time I wrote I put those same rotors and pads back on with no issues. Only changed the parking brake. 10 Yrs on the same pads and rotors... Phew. There wasn't much left. The one rotors dimples and slots were no longer dimples or slots.
So today changed the parking brake pads. The old ones were about 50%. I guess they were dragging. But I noticed the scissor shaped hardware that attaches to the cable and comes through the dust shield to actuated the parking brake is frozen. Both driver and passenger sides were frozen. This may have been a big part of the issue all along. After soaking in PB blaster and much pounding I got the two parts apart. Then wire wheeled them clean greased and reinstalled. Parking brake works great now. I'll have to maintenance them once in a while when checking or bleeding the brakes.

I'll post pics of the parts. BTW I couldn't find a place to purchase new to just replace them.

Edit: so now I feel like a ID10T. As I search for a pic or diagram I find a place that sells the. Moparpartsoverstock.com.

They are called 'lever left or right park brake adjust'.

They are pricy so I'll wire brush till they are gone.

Regards,
JPNinPA

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[Turbogus]

Dang JPn, I'm sorry for your trouble, If it's not the radiator it's something else, geeze. I guess you'll just have to do some periodic maintenance with some LPS or other rust inhibitor. Way out west they use cinder and while it's not corrosive, it breaks down into a very fine dust that colgs up air fileters if one doesn;t stay on top of PM.

 

[JPNinPA]

Turbogus I don't feel bad at all about this. I got 10 yrs out of one set of pads and rotors. In most cases I would have changed 2 or 3 sets of pads and rotors.


Regards,
JPNinPA

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