gas guage stuck on full
- Thread starter kelamb
- Start date
MudderChuck
New member
Don´t know about the 94, but in the earlier models, a gas gauge stuck in the full position, meant an open circuit, a plug unplugged or a broken wire (back by the gas tank/ a branch would get stuck in there and pull the connector apart or break the wire). Power to gauge, gauge to sender, sender to ground. A gauge that wouldn´t go all the way down, was a corroded connection someplace, not allowing a good ground or a faulty sender.
But like I said, the 94 could be a redesign, that works the other direction.
But like I said, the 94 could be a redesign, that works the other direction.
Tug-n-pull
New member
There are only a few YJ gas gauges in the world that work. Not a big deal just figure out you gaas milage per tank and set the trip meter and refule say a few miles prior to your standard run out time. tug
MudderChuck
New member
I don´t have a wiring diagram for the post 90 models, the connector used to be, on the drivers side of the gas tank, front end, up a ways (two wire connector, small gauge wire). But it could have been incorperated with the fuel pump harness on the injected models.
Said to be a connector, between the dash and the left rear taillight, that I never did find (somewhere under the carpet or kick panels). If you can figure out which wires to test, I´d do a voltage test, near the gas tank, on the colored wire to the sender, then continuity test from the black wire to ground. Should be very little voltage (amperage), need a good contact and ground to measure. Figure out if the problem, is before the tank or in the tank or a ground.
If you can´t find the wire color, a place to look, would be on the back of the gauge, should be the same color and stripe, running all the way back to the sender in the tank (but this is sometimes not so :x ) Usually have to follow the brass circuit board trail, back to the conector to get the wire color. Most of the gauges, I have seen, had three contact points, power, to sender, ground.
On the older models the nuts holding the gauge in, were brass, while the circuit board was copper, oxidation would grow between the nut and the circuit board, causing the gauge to go only part way down. But this was usually a gradual thing.
Wish I could be more helpfull, took me days, to figure out what was wrong and fix my gas gauge.
Said to be a connector, between the dash and the left rear taillight, that I never did find (somewhere under the carpet or kick panels). If you can figure out which wires to test, I´d do a voltage test, near the gas tank, on the colored wire to the sender, then continuity test from the black wire to ground. Should be very little voltage (amperage), need a good contact and ground to measure. Figure out if the problem, is before the tank or in the tank or a ground.
If you can´t find the wire color, a place to look, would be on the back of the gauge, should be the same color and stripe, running all the way back to the sender in the tank (but this is sometimes not so :x ) Usually have to follow the brass circuit board trail, back to the conector to get the wire color. Most of the gauges, I have seen, had three contact points, power, to sender, ground.
On the older models the nuts holding the gauge in, were brass, while the circuit board was copper, oxidation would grow between the nut and the circuit board, causing the gauge to go only part way down. But this was usually a gradual thing.
Wish I could be more helpfull, took me days, to figure out what was wrong and fix my gas gauge.
