Lock it up

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Magua308

New member
Got my engine running well, just put new tires on it and it is sitting well (89 YJ 4.2L, 30x9.5 r15), now I want to lock my diffs. I've got the stock d35 rear and d30 front. I don't do anything too hardcore off road (it is still my daily driver) but I would like a little more traction. I am debating between the detroit ez locker and the powertrax lock right. Has anyone ever used either of these? How necessary is a locker anyway? should I just save up and get a full-blown ARB air locker($$$$)?
 

get the lock rite...the detroit likes to beak pins/springs
 
Magua308 said:
How necessary is a locker anyway? should I just save up and get a full-blown ARB air locker($$$$)?
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Without an Locker.. all I can tell you is...dont follow me, you wont make it.

The truth is even an under powered jeep can crawl with the big boyz as long as he all 4 wheels turning. For 2000$ you can make your jeep out perform some of the UROC buggies.
The truly biggest improvement you can do to a jeep is to get all four wheels turning at the same time. Even clutch type lockers can some times slip.
ARB's once locked will never slip.
 
If you get something that is able to be disengaged, your tires will last longer on the street. On the trail, Utah is right. This is my first locked Jeep, and it's pretty unstoppable.
 
with the stock disconnect in the front axle still in place, use a manual cable type disconnect to engage/disengage for tight turns and streetablity and either spool it or "lincoln locker" - the rear you can spool or loc-rite (now if i just could get myself around to doing it! hehe!!)
 

It is not a question if your Dana 35 is going to break...but when.
I installed a super 35 kit into a friends jeep and he thought he removed that when part.
It took two years of heavy rock crawling but he did break it...bent the axle tube so back that he sheared the 'C' clip right off from the axle shaft.
If it took a ARB two years to bend a Dana 35...how long do you think it will take a welded locker that drives 24/7 to do the same?
 
I'm not doing anything too serious (general trail driving, some water, mud and very few big rocks), a D44 would be really nice, but a huge paycheck is not one of my military benefits. I just need a bit more traction for as little money as possible. I liked the Lock Right for it's simplicity and (as far as their website claimed) how it has minimal effect on pavement. Great insight, thanks, guys.
 
a lock rite will snap the stock axle shortly after you put it in . save for something that it tried and proven for moderate wheeling. and look at it this way. if you over build the axles you wont have to buy something more than once. as a marine i know what you mean buy the limited funds so save up and do it only once it will be cheaper. if you dont think so ask yer self this. how much does the lock rite cost? and a set of axleshafts? and another set? cuz they will snap more than once... just my thoughts take them or leave them.
 

slo-wrench44 said:
a lock rite will snap the stock axle shortly after you put it in . save for something that it tried and proven for moderate wheeling. and look at it this way. if you over build the axles you wont have to buy something more than once. as a marine i know what you mean buy the limited funds so save up and do it only once it will be cheaper. if you dont think so ask yer self this. how much does the lock rite cost? and a set of axleshafts? and another set? cuz they will snap more than once... just my thoughts take them or leave them.
Click to expand...

I quote the most illogical thing that I have read today.
 
Personally, I like the idea of an Ox locker better. It's selectable just like an ARB but doens't have vulnerable air tubes running under your jeep and doesn't require an air compressor. It also comes with a heavy duty diff cover for the fork. From what I hear, they're pretty tough as well. That's my opinion. Good luck bud.
 
currupt4130 said:
A spool and a dana 35 are a bad idea...
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I wish somebody would have told me this sooner :shock: :lol:

I've had my D35 spooled (lincoln locker) on my Daily Driver for nearly three years now, no problems. Drive in all kinds of weather on the road, and beat on it offroad on tough trails and one rock crawl competition. No problems, no broken shafts. Lincoln Lockers are easier on axleshafts than the lunchbox lockers or any other auto locker, no shear force from the axle locking up under wheelspin.
 

dont mean to pirate the post but i wanted to lock up my front and rear (30 and 35) lincoln style - i dont weld but need to know how to do it (the shop where i work can do it easy) - any directions out there? can it be done "driveway style" i.e. w/the carriers in the axle? and what is the preferred method (most reliable) to get it done and not fail? any help would be great (have a cable disconnect for the front and factory limited slip in the rear)
 
Bounty__Hunter said:
I wish somebody would have told me this sooner :shock: :lol:

I've had my D35 spooled (lincoln locker) on my Daily Driver for nearly three years now, no problems. Drive in all kinds of weather on the road, and beat on it offroad on tough trails and one rock crawl competition. No problems, no broken shafts. Lincoln Lockers are easier on axleshafts than the lunchbox lockers or any other auto locker, no shear force from the axle locking up under wheelspin.
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Haha, ok well in your case, we'll let you slide. You must have gotten the one Dana 35 with balls. :D
 
I have to disagree with a lincoln locker. They suck in any ice or snow and if your d35 hasn't bust something by now you are the luckiest person around.
 

I have to disagree with a lincoln locker. They suck in any ice or snow and if your d35 hasn't bust something by now you are the luckiest person around.
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Are you saying that an open diff will perform better in ice and snow than a locked one, or are you saying that a selectable locker will do better? Once locked, I fail to see the difference between a welded diff and a diff with a selectable locker. Not disagreeing with you bud, just trying to figure out what you meant.
 
is there some magical inexpensive way to replace a d35 and d30 with something stronger? What would be a good swap? Am I correct in my assumption that when you start talking axle swap it's time to get overdraft protection for the bank account?
 
I am saying a locker in the front sucks in the ice...That being said(yes i have one) if you dont drive in the ice/snow very much then it's not a problem, or if you have hubs and can turn one off. I would much rather have selectable lockers if i won the lotto or had a better job or no kids...blah...blahh Most [people will either go lunchbox or weld it and the d35 does not like being locked up with bigger then 33's. AS far as axles go if you dont have like 2k then keep the d30, upgrade to bigger style axles and get either 8.8 or a d44 fron a scout or xj. Or just say screw it and get waggy d44 f/r and get more width. Scince you probably have to regear anyway just as well put the $$ into a better axle.......................my .02
 

yjdave said:
I have to disagree with a lincoln locker. They suck in any ice or snow
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I disagree, I was totally expecting what you describe on slick surfaces but was surprised it wasn't nearly as bad. I concede it's not for everybody, you have to know how to drive it, but the downsides aren't anything near what I had imagined, much better handling and predictability in all conditions.
 
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