mpg
- Thread starter beto31
- Start date
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
A lot of power mods actually work well to improve mileage if you can keep your foot out of it. I'd recommend:
Decrease your top cruising speed by 10mph.
Electric fan.
Conical filter on your stock airtube.
62mm throttle body and spacer.
FireWire ignition kit from Performance Distributors - High Performance and Racing Ignition Systems .
If you've installed larger tires, regearing to match the new tire size will improve mileage. Narrower tires will also help.
Don't pay the $250-$300 that most retailers want for a 62mm throttle body, I frequently have them available for $95 each.
Decrease your top cruising speed by 10mph.
Electric fan.
Conical filter on your stock airtube.
62mm throttle body and spacer.
FireWire ignition kit from Performance Distributors - High Performance and Racing Ignition Systems .
If you've installed larger tires, regearing to match the new tire size will improve mileage. Narrower tires will also help.
Don't pay the $250-$300 that most retailers want for a 62mm throttle body, I frequently have them available for $95 each.
TEEJ
New member
-------------------
Um, this will probably not make it past the censors, but, how in the world would a throttle body spacer help on a multiport fuel injected engine?
All of the ignition, etc...happens at the wrong place for a throttle body spacer to impact it, the way that it COULD on an old school engine (Like with a carburetor, etc...)
If the person never drives through water, a cone filter can be an option to reduce intake drag, but obviously, as the engine computer/mass air flow sensors, etc...are constantly adjusting the fuel delivery to match the airflow, I would think increasing the airflow would onlyy be helpful in increasing mpg if the oem set-up just could not allow enough air in at cruising (MPG territory...) speeds...which, is unlikely.
If the rig has an offroad/water crossing possibility...then an open element air filter is often asking for trouble...as it can suck in water much more easily, etc.
The electric fan option CAN work, but, the alternator drag is increased, so the parasitic losses reduced by removing the mechanical fans is offset by the parasitic losses due to the increased alternator drag...
I found on swaps that the mpg DID improve overall with the e fan swaps, but not as much as hoped, due to the alternator losses...IE: At higher speeds, the e fan wins (Alt is declutched, airflow through radiator is sufficient from the speed alone, etc)...at lower speeds, the mech fan wins. I go e fan mostly so I can turn it off on water crossings.
The ignition upgrades, again, are only going to work if the oem system was not completely burning the fuel...and even then, only by the remaining to be burned fuel's percentage...so, what % is being used/left for improvement...unburned hydrocarbons going out of the exhaust pipe/into cans, etc? - Well, that's the percentage left for improvement...some thing less than 1% for sure.
I think the above suggestions, as an overall pattern, would be more of a top power related mod path, than an mpg improvement related mod path.
Dropping the speed works wonders for mpg...dead on....due to our aerodynamics of a brick...etc.
I'd add -
Increase the tire pressure to reduce tire hysteresis/rolling resistance.
Swap in synthetic lubes for ALL lubed parts, it really drops the mechanical losses and heat build-up, the engine and the diffs being top priority.
Look at the horizon, drive with peripheral vision...notice traffic patterns as far ahead as possible, and adjust acceleration and braking, etc...to allow as smooth a transition as possible, IE: Don't find yourself accelerating because the guy in front is, and then braking - because the guy in front accelerated into a slower traffic pattern, and then had to brake, etc. (Yes, people cut into the 1 car length space if it opens...but, they are paying a premium for it....you are saving money by allowing them in under those circumstances, etc.)
(Saving gas requires patience...leave earlier, rather than driving faster, etc.)
mud4feet
New member
..................Look at the horizon, drive with peripheral vision...notice traffic patterns as far ahead as possible, and adjust acceleration and braking, etc...to allow as smooth a transition as possible, IE: Don't find yourself accelerating because the guy in front is, and then braking - because the guy in front accelerated into a slower traffic pattern, and then had to brake, etc. (Yes, people cut into the 1 car length space if it opens...but, they are paying a premium for it....you are saving money by allowing them in under those circumstances, etc.)
(Saving gas requires patience...leave earlier, rather than driving faster, etc.)
Do we have a Jeep "hypermiler" on board!!?!! :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
JK, of course!! All VERY good suggestions. I'm amazed, daily, by how brainlessly people drive.
TEEJ
New member
Yeah, according to the mpg gauge, I can squeeze a lot of go from the go go juice.
I did find that if I drive with the mpg displayed, I could see the impact of driving style on fuel economy.
That allowed me to fine tune my appoach to maximize economy when desired.
So creeping along a rock garden in 1st Low is not going into double digit mpg #'s...no matter what I do...
...and getting stuck in traffic, idling while getting ZERO mpg, due to the lack of the m's, and only g's going down the tube...was painful.
On the other hand, steady cruising on flat terrain at ~ 50 mph in 6th gets me about 26 mpg.
Raising the speed to 55 mph dropped that mpg to more like 22 - 24 mpg.
Raising the speed to 60 mph dropped the mpg to more like 20 - 22 mpg (Terrain/which top/Traffic dependant....).
Raising the speed to 65 mph dropped me to 18 - 20 mpg.
@ 70 mph, I'm down to ~ 18 mpg...
@ 75 mph, I'm getting closer to 16 Mpg, and the hard top gets noticeably better mpg than the soft top once the mph climb past 70 mph....and some effect is happening as low as 55 or so...due to the fabric having more wind resistance, etc.
So - the Average mpg is a product of both heavier traffic/terrain/top And the cruising mpg....which makes it hard to compare unless the routes are constant, etc.
Coasting downhill, using a down hill section to accelerate, rather than hitting the gas AFTER mph are slipping to maintain speed on an uphill section, etc...Help to save gas.
A short use of higher mpg can allow a longer use of higher mpg ranges, etc.
Turning the engine off for extended idle periods makes a difference, but makes me nervous in situations where evasive maneuvers might arise from Buicks that didn't notice the stopped traffic, etc...
So - while I might see 30 mpg or more on the guage....the AVERAGE mpg is a more telling number when its time to PAY for the gas.
For example, on the way back from RC, I was coasting down a long downhill at 70 mph+.....and my mpg meter was showing I was getting over 100 mpg....
Of course, to coast down, one must first have driven UP, so, the gains and losses, overall, essentially evened out on a long trip.
Even a slight attention to MPG can influence the outcome at the pump.
I did find that if I drive with the mpg displayed, I could see the impact of driving style on fuel economy.
That allowed me to fine tune my appoach to maximize economy when desired.
So creeping along a rock garden in 1st Low is not going into double digit mpg #'s...no matter what I do...
...and getting stuck in traffic, idling while getting ZERO mpg, due to the lack of the m's, and only g's going down the tube...was painful.
On the other hand, steady cruising on flat terrain at ~ 50 mph in 6th gets me about 26 mpg.
Raising the speed to 55 mph dropped that mpg to more like 22 - 24 mpg.
Raising the speed to 60 mph dropped the mpg to more like 20 - 22 mpg (Terrain/which top/Traffic dependant....).
Raising the speed to 65 mph dropped me to 18 - 20 mpg.
@ 70 mph, I'm down to ~ 18 mpg...
@ 75 mph, I'm getting closer to 16 Mpg, and the hard top gets noticeably better mpg than the soft top once the mph climb past 70 mph....and some effect is happening as low as 55 or so...due to the fabric having more wind resistance, etc.
So - the Average mpg is a product of both heavier traffic/terrain/top And the cruising mpg....which makes it hard to compare unless the routes are constant, etc.
Coasting downhill, using a down hill section to accelerate, rather than hitting the gas AFTER mph are slipping to maintain speed on an uphill section, etc...Help to save gas.
A short use of higher mpg can allow a longer use of higher mpg ranges, etc.
Turning the engine off for extended idle periods makes a difference, but makes me nervous in situations where evasive maneuvers might arise from Buicks that didn't notice the stopped traffic, etc...
So - while I might see 30 mpg or more on the guage....the AVERAGE mpg is a more telling number when its time to PAY for the gas.
For example, on the way back from RC, I was coasting down a long downhill at 70 mph+.....and my mpg meter was showing I was getting over 100 mpg....
Of course, to coast down, one must first have driven UP, so, the gains and losses, overall, essentially evened out on a long trip.
Even a slight attention to MPG can influence the outcome at the pump.
ought6 rubicon
New member
Don't try this at home, but drafting 18wheelers really improves my mileage. I can go from 16mpg to 22mpg on the highway if I find a truck going my way. The downside is that one day I'm going to eat rubber when a re-treaded tire lets go in front of me. At least the anticipation keeps me awake on the road.
Around town, my lead foot kills my mileage. I've found that what Teej said about driving is usually the best way to improve my gas mileage. That, or I can just drive my old Honda Civic, and get 44 mpg. Yeah, I know, it's nowhere near as cool or fun as the Jeep. The only plus is that I can pull up next to a hybrid driver, and tease them about how I get the same mpgs that they do for under $3000. And that I don't need an electrical engineering degree to fix my car. They love that stuff.:twisted:
Around town, my lead foot kills my mileage. I've found that what Teej said about driving is usually the best way to improve my gas mileage. That, or I can just drive my old Honda Civic, and get 44 mpg. Yeah, I know, it's nowhere near as cool or fun as the Jeep. The only plus is that I can pull up next to a hybrid driver, and tease them about how I get the same mpgs that they do for under $3000. And that I don't need an electrical engineering degree to fix my car. They love that stuff.:twisted:
