my first build
- Thread starter jeepfann
- Start date
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
A 3" lift won't clear 33" tires on a YJ, nor with a 2.5" lift clear 32" tires. 4" is the minimum lift for 33" tires unless you add a body lift or install TJ fender flares for extra tire clearance.
You can run a 4" spring lift without a SYE if you use the transfer case lowering kit included with the lift.
Tell us why you're willing to regear but you're avoiding having to install a SYE kit.
You can run a 4" spring lift without a SYE if you use the transfer case lowering kit included with the lift.
Tell us why you're willing to regear but you're avoiding having to install a SYE kit.
It all comes down to money, where do you spend it first gearing, suspension lift and tires, then SYE? I was under the impression that re- gearing is an absolute with 33's. Do most 4" lifts come with springs shocksand steering stabilizersand transfercase lowering kit? See why I need help!!!!!
Thanks for the info, I need all I can get.
Tony
Sounds like you did the same mods I am looking at, did you have to use a sye to start or can I get by for a little while?
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Regearing will cost much more than a SYE, and it's a bit of a toss-up on which to do first.
Most 4" kits are complete with TC drop, shocks, swaybar extensions, etc.
Most 4" kits are complete with TC drop, shocks, swaybar extensions, etc.
Save your money and accumulate all the parts, do it once and do it right the first time, then you won't need to do it a second time.
Too add, I would suggest not investing a whole lot of money into the D35 rear, search for D44 or ford exploder 8.8 far better axle to start with.
Too add, I would suggest not investing a whole lot of money into the D35 rear, search for D44 or ford exploder 8.8 far better axle to start with.
O_M_Jeep
New member
You can get by just fine, I'm at 3.25" suspension lift and didnt do the SYE, I didnt even do the transfer case drop, I did however eventualy do the motor mount lift and associated body lift of 1.25". As for the Dana 35c rear, I run one, with a 2.5 your not going to put huge amounts of strain on it unless you go up to 35" tires, with 31"s your fine as long as your not a huge throttle jockey type driver off road, when I switched from 31"s to 33"s I made sure I had alloy shaft in before the tires went on. I wheel pretty hard, but not throttle heavy, another inexpensive upgrade you can do is the D35 truss from Superior. Yes, a lot of people will say its a ticking time bomb and dont waste money and make you feel you need to get it out of there right away, reading what others said like that had me worried for about a year, I had access to a guy who builds a lot of bolt in 8.8" ford rears, when I found out the 8.8 is also a C-Clip shaft just exactly like the 35, I started looking at c-clip eliminators for the D35. Where you get in trouble with the D35 is having a 4.0 and being throttle heavy, or having too large a size tires.
Before next season I'll probably go up to a 4" non-progressive lift, at that point I'll do the SYE, if your driveline angles arent bad its not a huge issue, and mostly until you get in to very large lifts it isnt an issue. This is a link to Tom Woods website, at the top click "tech info" and it will show you good and bad driveline angles. Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
I'll be regearing to 4.88 myself, I'll get them through Rough Country, they sell Motive Gear products and for under $500 I can get both ring & pinions and master install sets for both axles in one kit.
Do a lot of reading and dont believe everything people say in forums, including me
what works for me might not work the same for you, it all comes down to try it and see, you get good advice here, but keep in mind that advice is based on their Jeep and experiance and driving style and variables, you will always get a different result because your a different person with a different Jeep. Still, the majority of people will try to be helpful.
LilRedYJ
New member
For what its worth... If your primary objective is to run 33s... Then I would start with a 4" lift kit (rough country has a pretty complete kit for under $500.) and your tires/wheels . Put it all on... Look at your driveshaft angles and then drive it down the road to see how much the performance /power was affected...
(Keep in mind your speedometer reading will probably be off a little from the tire size change ) and go from there. ... Your ideal gear ratio depends a lot on your intended application... Street.. Dirt.. Mud... Rock.. River... Little bit of everything ...
That's the best part of the JEEPZ forum.. You can get input from people representing all the different ways to use a jeep
(Keep in mind your speedometer reading will probably be off a little from the tire size change ) and go from there. ... Your ideal gear ratio depends a lot on your intended application... Street.. Dirt.. Mud... Rock.. River... Little bit of everything ...
That's the best part of the JEEPZ forum.. You can get input from people representing all the different ways to use a jeep
jfrabat
New member
I have a '94 YJ also with the little engine that could...
Here's how I bought the thing:
I first did the 4" lift (kept the 31's that came with the Jeep). I installed my SYE at the same time I did my lift. Now, thanks to the rear pinion angle, I had REALLY bad vibrations, and had to correct this so the CV shaft would work as it should. Here's how the Jeep looked at the time:
I then went to 4.88 gears but still kept the 31's. Let me tell you, based on my experience (and assuming you have a manual as well), I would forget about 4.56 and go straight to 4.88... I then bought the new 33's, and started wishing I could go to 5.13! Here's how it looked 2 years ago:
Now, keep in mind I wheel in mud and rivers (mud tends to need the higher wheel speed of all types of wheeling), and I STILL wish I had 5.13's on my axles...
And just for the heck of it, here's how the D35 looks today from the inside (ignore the marks on the ARB; that's from a previous issue that has since been fixed):
I also agree that it is better to throw a Ford 8.8 in there rather than throwing money on a D35, but then again, I threw my money on the D35 and it has yet to fail me (although I do know it is my weak link, especially with 33's and ARB's; I DO have, on the other hand 31 spline alloy axles in there).
Here's how I bought the thing:
I first did the 4" lift (kept the 31's that came with the Jeep). I installed my SYE at the same time I did my lift. Now, thanks to the rear pinion angle, I had REALLY bad vibrations, and had to correct this so the CV shaft would work as it should. Here's how the Jeep looked at the time:
I then went to 4.88 gears but still kept the 31's. Let me tell you, based on my experience (and assuming you have a manual as well), I would forget about 4.56 and go straight to 4.88... I then bought the new 33's, and started wishing I could go to 5.13! Here's how it looked 2 years ago:
Now, keep in mind I wheel in mud and rivers (mud tends to need the higher wheel speed of all types of wheeling), and I STILL wish I had 5.13's on my axles...
And just for the heck of it, here's how the D35 looks today from the inside (ignore the marks on the ARB; that's from a previous issue that has since been fixed):
I also agree that it is better to throw a Ford 8.8 in there rather than throwing money on a D35, but then again, I threw my money on the D35 and it has yet to fail me (although I do know it is my weak link, especially with 33's and ARB's; I DO have, on the other hand 31 spline alloy axles in there).
Tyler Bates
New member
My last rig was a yj with the 2.5 and I had a SOA with 35s tried everything to make it work without a SYE and ended up spending more to try and make it work without one which never happened then i would of just buying one. The axle issue yes those axles are week and the ax5 transmission is too my axles never failed me but matter of time I say on a 4 banger replace both of them
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