Potentially Buying a CJ

Bob Carleton

New member
I've always loved old CJs, but never had the means or opportunity to own one.

Right now there is one for sale right at the end of my street. I know the guy selling it, he's a stand up guy. It's a '78 CJ-5 with a Chevy 350 engine. It's also lifted (I'm not sure how much or if it's all suspension or a mix of suspension and body lifts, but i'ts quite high).

I'm not crazy about the lift (I wouldn't be off-roading really, this is just kind of a fun project truck for me and something to take up to my family lake house), but other than that it's in decent shape. And for 4 grand, seems worth some risk.

jeep.jpg
The only reason I did'nt buy it on the spot was that he says the brakes need work, and didn't really feel comfortable letting me test drive, and I have a hard time buying something I can't test drive, even as a project vehicle.

So, my questions to the experts of the forum :
- should I buy it?
- what should I look for when inspecting? I checked for rust in the usual places, and it's in pretty good shape (some rust but no rot, etc) for being a new england vehicle

CJs in decent shape are real hard to come by around here, and the price (adn convenience) seem hard to beat.

Mostly i'm looking for friendly folks to talk me into it, since my wife thinks I'm crazy :)
 

Personally I would stay away or low ball him on the price by about half if I couldn't test drive it. Nice part is the motor would be easy to get parts for I would also ask what transmission is in it.. Sounds and looks like it has had almost every part replaced so personally I would want to drive it to make sure it was put together correctly
 
You need to look the frame over front to back. In the front look just past the front bumper at the cross brace. Look for cracks in this area and around the steering box mount. Then work your way to the rear paying particular attention to the area right in front of the rear axel and back. If all that passed inspection, look at the metal around the body mounts and on to the floors. the floor under the roll bar mount behind the back seat is a problem area. If all that looks good check the oil pressure and over all condition of the engine. Maybe if the owner could take you for a ride so you could see how it does. I'm just like ya, be hard for me to buy it without driving it. I wouldn't expect it to be totally rust free, if it is you going to make a big profit. lol If its pretty solid in your area that's somewhat rare from what I understand. Where I live it would even be a good buy at that price. Just a word of advice, old CJ's don't drive like a fine European sports car. Aftermarket lifts can make them ride harsh. That being said, they have their special qualities. They're a lot of fun, easy to work on and cool. Quickest way to sell one is to take the prospective buyer a ride in it with the top off on a nice day. Good luck
 
thats easily a 4k jeep down here. just form the pics. brakes are easy work, i would see if he will let you cut a few hundred off for the brakes but i would have no problem paying 4k for it.

does it have a top or doors? if not, that will be a huge bummer once the weather turns and would make that a summer only jeep, basically.
 

Honestly, you have a few folks that like the old CJ 5's but I would say 90% prefer a 7 (Myself included). The wheel base is so darn short on the 5's that they are quite tipsy when lifted. I would just jump on Craigslist and find a 7 you can test drive.
 
You need to look the frame over front to back. In the front look just past the front bumper at the cross brace. Look for cracks in this area and around the steering box mount. Then work your way to the rear paying particular attention to the area right in front of the rear axel and back. If all that passed inspection, look at the metal around the body mounts and on to the floors. the floor under the roll bar mount behind the back seat is a problem area. If all that looks good check the oil pressure and over all condition of the engine. Maybe if the owner could take you for a ride so you could see how it does. I'm just like ya, be hard for me to buy it without driving it. I wouldn't expect it to be totally rust free, if it is you going to make a big profit. lol If its pretty solid in your area that's somewhat rare from what I understand. Where I live it would even be a good buy at that price.

Thanks for the tips. It definitely has rust in quite a few places from when I first looked, but nothing looked rotted through. The tub has that truck bed coating on it.

Just a word of advice, old CJ's don't drive like a fine European sports car. Aftermarket lifts can make them ride harsh. That being said, they have their special qualities. They're a lot of fun, easy to work on and cool. Quickest way to sell one is to take the prospective buyer a ride in it with the top off on a nice day. Good luck

LOL. Thanks. I've owned and driven quite a few older cars and trucks, and rode old motorcycles for almost 15 years, so I'm not as coddled as I apparently come off.

thats easily a 4k jeep down here. just form the pics. brakes are easy work, i would see if he will let you cut a few hundred off for the brakes but i would have no problem paying 4k for it.

does it have a top or doors? if not, that will be a huge bummer once the weather turns and would make that a summer only jeep, basically.

Has doors, I think only the bikini top though. I redid the front brakes on my old Ranger a couple years ago (everything from the master cylinder down) so I'm not too scared of that, although doing the rears... I haven't dealt with drum brakes in quite some time, and don't have fond memories. :)


Thanks for all the tips everyone. Probably leaning towards passing on this particular one and maybe saving up for something a little more road ready that I can test out before buying. I don't have THAT much free time so I feel like I might end up buying this and not being able to get it on the road for months and that would just be a shame.
 

I would buy it in a minute if all rust areas pass inspection. brakes are easy, even drums, the drum springs are tight but a good pair of channel locks and flat head screwdriver does the trick.. good luck and keep us posted.
 
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