I swapped a set of 4.10 axles out of an 93 wrangler into my 89 wrangler to make up for larger tires. Now after bleeding the brakes 3 times, once gravity bleed and 2 times regular pump the pedal way. it still has a soft pedal. Any suggestions or reasons why this would happen? Please help! need to get it inspected it's been 2 months
Soft pedal after swap
- Thread starter Megamole
- Start date
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Are the calipers on the correct side?
Keep bleeding, open the bleeder valve then push the pedal to the floor and hold. Close bleeder. Then bleed by pumping slowly and holding.
Keep bleeding, open the bleeder valve then push the pedal to the floor and hold. Close bleeder. Then bleed by pumping slowly and holding.
Crazy4diesels
New member
Hey there megamole,
As Bounty Hunter said make sure the calipers are on the right side. Just because you didn't take them off doesn't mean the last guy did it right. To check, look at the bleeder screws... They should be at the highest point of the fluid well. If the calipers are reversed the screws will be at the bottom. I've seen this on a few vehicles. One other thing to try is a pressure bleeder. You can probably rent one. This clamps onto the M/C and forces blake fluid through the lines at a higher speed and more flow than pushing the pedal. This will overcome air traps in the lines. Some Military vehicles have large diameter brake lines and the only way I have successfuly bled them is with the pressure bleed method. Otherwise air and fluid pass eachother in the line and cause a squishy pedal. People have often wondered why my M37's have "rock pedal" (M37's are known for squishy brakes). Best of luck - John
As Bounty Hunter said make sure the calipers are on the right side. Just because you didn't take them off doesn't mean the last guy did it right. To check, look at the bleeder screws... They should be at the highest point of the fluid well. If the calipers are reversed the screws will be at the bottom. I've seen this on a few vehicles. One other thing to try is a pressure bleeder. You can probably rent one. This clamps onto the M/C and forces blake fluid through the lines at a higher speed and more flow than pushing the pedal. This will overcome air traps in the lines. Some Military vehicles have large diameter brake lines and the only way I have successfuly bled them is with the pressure bleed method. Otherwise air and fluid pass eachother in the line and cause a squishy pedal. People have often wondered why my M37's have "rock pedal" (M37's are known for squishy brakes). Best of luck - John
Thanks Bounty and Crazy4diesels,
The calipers are on correctly. I gravity bleed each unit for 10-15 minutes. Fluid did not flow quickly kinda slow dripping, I will look to rent a power bleeder. The pedal is improving but not where i would like it. It stops fine, but just has a soft feeling still. Not my daily driver, but equally frustrating :roll:
The calipers are on correctly. I gravity bleed each unit for 10-15 minutes. Fluid did not flow quickly kinda slow dripping, I will look to rent a power bleeder. The pedal is improving but not where i would like it. It stops fine, but just has a soft feeling still. Not my daily driver, but equally frustrating :roll:
I am going to guess that the calipers from the 93 have a larger bore than the stock ones in the 89. I would tahe the master off the booster and adjust the plunger rod out 1/2 turn, reinstall and check the brakes, if it gets worse, you turned the plunger rod the wrong way, if it get s a little better but not great, take off and repeat. It may be time consuming but you should be OK.
jeffrey919
New member
i know this is the obvious, but did you check the vacume line into the brake booster? that happen to me once (though i dont like to admit) after installing a body lift. I checked everything before i checked that hose rit in front of my face!
