Star Screw

Cujo

New member
1073545

i have a YJ and i went to switch out some of my hinges because they were starting to rust, so i went to put stainless in. When i went to take these star bolts out, some of them got striped, totally, does anyone have any like a technique to get these striped SOB's out? we tried tapin the middle of it, WD40, and we even tried these bits that were made to take out the bolt, but we tried it with one, yeah it turned, then broke in the hole. any ideas anyone??[addsig]
 

1073566

1st, go to NAPA and get what is called "easy out" drill it. follow the instructions, if that does not work, craftsman makes a screw retractor bit tat is like garrantied to remove any screw or your money back!

Johnny[addsig]
 
1073576

Good luck, I'm not looking forward to the day I ever have to remove those torx bolts. PB Blaster is a much better penetrant than WD40, FWIW.[addsig]
 
1073592

Removing torx screws are a bit tricky....
Once the torx center section is completly stripped the standard tech is to drill a very small hole through the center 1/16 or so depending on the screw size and spray in a rust penitrant. PB is good ...WD doesnt has the weeping action to get deep into the rusted area's.
Now comes the fun part.I would tape some brass, alum, shims to the area around the bolt, then using a dremel I would cut the head into a slot configeration for a straight bladed screw driver. A drill can power these fiber resin slitting blades.
Once the torx screw is slotted I would use a impact driver to "break" these screws out. Then a good old screw driver to finish removing them.
Chase the threaded hole with a tap to clean the threads.

I would recomend Cobolt drills for this operation especialty drilling the center out.
If the head is too far gone and you have to use an easy out I have made some recomendations in another discussion go here and read those.
Page title:[addsig]
 

1073599

and when the smoke clears... replace them all with hex[addsig]
 
1073671

Mine all rotted out. I drilled them out and then they kept spinning on the drill when the holebroke away from the frame. so I knocke them out with a air hammer and replaced everything with stainles wall anchors to hole on the hinges.[addsig]
 
1073676

Mine all rotted out. I drilled them out and then they kept spinning on the drill when the holebroke away from the frame. so I knocke them out with a air hammer and replaced everything with stainles wall anchors to hole on the hinges.

That is one way...I would also recomend a Hilo-coil kit for the appropriate size. A helicoil. This is a thread insert that you drill over-size and tap with a STI tap (standard thread insert) These inserts allow you to drill over size about an 1/8 of an inch and re-establist threads in that hole. You can find them in most industrail parts houses in your local area.[addsig]
 

1073734

many times, a coil doesn't require even tapping the new hole... the threads of it can often grab the hole's wall just fine[addsig]
 
1073766

That is true snitty, but if your going to rely on the hilocoil to hold something together for a long time or torque it down the hilocoil relies on the 75% thread to thread engagmentwhen you tap with an STI tap. With a bit of thread locker these coils will hold the same torque that the orginal threads could hold.a few things I forgot to say as well is before you install the hilocoil shoot a bit of rustolem paint into the hole to coat the bare metal and let it dry completly this protests the hole from any more rusting.
[addsig]
 

1073915

You couldn't tap it. The entire threaded assembly comes out with the screw and leaves a 1/2 rusted hole in the frame of the windshield. If the screw came out it would be one thing, but since the entire assembly comes out, you need to find other means of securing that hinge.[addsig]
 
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