The Cure for your Tie Rod Roll!

Dan Fredrickson

New member
Finally!


For as long as there have been Jeeps they have wandered down the road. Wandering along...


If you have driven a Jeep, you know the feeling. The steering wheel goes two inches to the right, two inches to the left and then back again, while your vehicle stays in a relatively straight line. That is the result of your Tie Rod rolling forward and backward forward and backward again and again. That's simply because there is nothing there to prevent it from doing that. And early wear on tie rods simply because they are always in motion and torn boots because they have been flexed about a jillion times.


The Cure!
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This small piece of machined Delrin plastic has had a lot of thought put into it. So much that we decided it would be the First Ruffstuff product we patented! Used against only the face of our Y-Link Adapter or a common Y-Link Tie Rod. It gives a self lubricated,fixed yet slightly flexible surface for the Tie Rods to run against. The drag link does not flop forward or backward whatsoever yet in common usage it is allowed to roll which causes the steering wheel dead spot and allows for the tie rod roll.

Not all TRE's are created equal. Some have a long pin, some have a short pin. This product has been specifically made to work with a GM 1 Ton TRE. In some cases you may have to sand the outside surface to allow for a flush fit. You do not want a tight fit, you want a snug fit. It naturally has a grease pocket built in, this is meant to ride beyond the taper in place of the standard dust boot. These are made for 1 Ton TRE's and also work for 7/8" Heim Joints.


This product also goes great with our Offset Tie Rods if you also use our second pattented item, our Y-Link Adapter that you can find here Y link adapter 18TPI (TRE threading) - RuffStuff Specialties When using these 2 together you still retain the fine adjustability of a standard Tie Rod!


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The Cure! - RuffStuff Specialties
 

Are there any plans to produce this product to be used for upper and lower ball joints since the grease cups are prone to tearing as well ?
 
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