Today was a special day (Tie Rod ?)

Jason4x4

New member
So today was a very special day for me. I pretzeled my first tie rod at Rausch Creek 8). I went up with Mount Zion Offroad again for their monthly ride and we did almost all black and blue-black trails. Specifically, if anyone is familiar with the park, we did Trail 22 in the morning (had an XJ bust a u-joint and then subsequently grenade the axle), and did Camel Back and Snake Bite all the way through. I had the smallest Jeep (32" tires) and had to be very careful about picking lines but the Jeep did amazingly well. The tie rod actually isn't that bad but it is bent and probably needs to be replaced (I was able to finish wheeling and drive home on it). Also suffered some body damage on a hill climb gone wrong (basically wrapped it around a tree, Smittybilt (say what you will about the brand) rock sliders saved any body damage on the sides, but I kissed the tree with the front passenger fender and put a dent in it, but I was able to bang it out to where you have to look close to notice any damage. I only got stuck once all day.

Anyway, on to my question: I'm looking at tie rod upgrade options and I'm seeing the Currie Correctlync or however it's spelled for about $200 for the full assembly (it requires special 7/8" ends), or I can get the Rough Country tie rod upgrade which has a 1.25" tie rod (same diameter as the Currie) but reuses the stock ends and only costs $80. I'm leaning towards the R.C. but I wanted to get the opinions of the forum and see if theres any major advantages to the Currie unit, or is there another option that I'm not seeing??

Sorry I don't have any pictures, my wife was at a bachelorette party this weekend and she had the camera :(.
 

I've got the RC one myself, and it's nice. I believe the TJ tie rod is hollow, but there is a direct replacement from a Grand Cherokee that's solid (I don't know the year though).
 
I have the currie, but I bought the complete system, drag-link and tie rod, it is solid and the joints are much beefier than the stock. I am running 35s and although I never damaged the stock unit, I feel much more confident in the currie.
 
I would just get another stock unit and sleeve it with sch 80 poop pipe before installing. you can up grade the tubes all you want, once you do the puny TRE become the weak point.

probably score the tie rod from teh junk yard for $5-10 the pip at home depot will be about the same. cheap and equally effective fix. if you want to go all out, build your own steering with large bore GM 1 ton TRE, ream out your pitman arm and knuckles and buy some 1.5" .25 wall dom, tap teh ends with a 3/4 18 tpi tap and done. your link material and TRE will be matched strength wise.
 
I appreciate the responses guys. I ended up going with a tie rod from Big Daddy's Offroad that I found some really good reviews for. It's 1 1/4" like the others, advertised as 4x stronger than stock and uses the stock rod ends. It's just slightly more expensive than the RC unit ($85 vs. $79). I'll let you know how the install goes once it gets here. The point about upgrading the whole steering system is well taken, but I honestly just don't have that kind of money right now and I want to get this fixed...plus I usually don't get that deep into the rocks, so we'll see how well this holds up. Next time I wheel I think I'll bring a spare tie rod end just in case ;).
 
Finally got a picture of the bent tie rod (sorry, sprained my ankle Monday evening and I'm on crutches all week). New tie rod supposed to be here Friday. I'll post an install if I get things wrapped up this weekend.
 

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