transmission- gears grinding

P

pghpenna

New member
1047172

My girlfriends 93 Jeep Wrangler 6 cylinder 5 speed manual transmission is grinding gears when up/down shifting. I just move her to NC from Fla and thought her baby was in shock (not used to the cold weather) because this problem just started since the move. I thought I would try to add some gear oil to the transmission case, Sure glad I didn't! After reading some additional posts I discovered the reference books are incorrect when recomending GL-5 75/90W, is this true? The reason I thought to add transmission gear oil is because I've seen fluid on the bell housing and assumed it was transmission gear oil, Perhaps from a leaking gasket due to the temperature change. Would my best course of action be to add the proper (GL-3??) gear oil and a synthetic additive (for a temp fix) or should I think about not taking her out to dinner for a while to pay for a new transmission or fix the syncros. Thanks in advance for advice.[addsig]
 

1047173

drain out the old gear oil, and put new stuff in asap, but if its already started eating away at those brass syncro's all you can do is hope you switch it in time[addsig]
 
1047177

You're right about GL5 being wrong. Drain it and install Redline MT90 from www.redline.com or www.summitracing.com , it's a GL4 rated synthetic that is specially formulated to be easy on the brass synchronizers, which is what the sulfer in a GL5 corrodes.



The Redline will smooth out the shifts and hopefully save the transmission from having the wrong gear oil in it.[addsig]
 

1047201

If the person who had it before you used the wrong oil... your synchro's could be shot. Lets hope that's not the case. Try bleeding your clutch line as well... that will allow your clutch to open all the way[addsig]
 
1047971

I'm having a problem with my 2nd gear. When it's cold out it's hard to shift to 2nd, but after the engine warms up over 100 it's ok. What's the deal?[addsig]
 
1047986

Reaper you have the same symptoms i do... From our fellow jeepers i found that it is the synchros and that the best way to SLOW the deteriorating of the synchros is to replace your transmission fluid with Redline MT90 gear oil. goin out to buy some today.[addsig]
 

1047998

my old AX5 transmission was always stiff on cold mornings, and would loosen up after it got a little warm, even after i had the right gear oil in it...who knows, that transmission is junk anyway[addsig]
 
1048127

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font class="pn-sub">Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT class="pn-sub"><BLOCKQUOTE>Redline MT90 huh? Where can I find that?</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>



www.summitracing.com or www.redlineoil.com
image-missing.png
[addsig]
 

1048249

Thanks Bounty, I'll order some with the next check. Has anyone actually ever changed their syncros?[addsig]
 
1048318

93 Yj has a Ax-15 transmission with an intrenal slave cylender controlling clutch dissengagement,easiest thing to check first is the clutch master fluid level.If fluid is low it's probable the slave is no good.As far as I can tell from the Chrysler service manual the AX-15 Trans. 80w90 gear lubricant.Hope i could help.[addsig]
 
1048376

I had the same prob with my transmission before it finally died. I had the gear oil changed which seemed to clear up the grinding a bit but when it started to get cold it got REALLY hard to put it in second...at least no grinding. Of course once it warmed up they all started grinding again as usual heh[addsig]
 

1048473

HAHAHA I remember Ray. I know the clutch master cylinder runs to the throw bearing, but I don't thing it's going out. I do, however, came across another problem. While examining my throw bearing (took your advice XJ), and noticed that the connecter that secures the line from the clutch master cylinder is leaking. It's leaking from behind the fitting. Looks like there's a plastic ring, or a plastic plug. My question is, can I break that off and just sauder to hole?[addsig]
 
1048474

Opened up a friends filler cap (91 YJ), for the old clutch master cylinder, he was complaining about grinding shifts. Looked like metalic applesauce in there, no chit.[addsig]
 
1048519

Where is the master cylinder fill cap for the clutch in a 95 YJ? I want to check my friends who is having the same prob. I'm only familiar with AMC engines[addsig]
 

1048522

oh sh*t.... You know that sinking feeling of staring down a freight train and knowing you don't have time

to move out of the way? Yeah, that's about what I feel right now.



First, let me say I have never worked on transmissions before and the guy who helped me has never worked on

Jeeps. A "while" ago (I'd prefer not to say how long) I got back from overseas, and realized my Jeep (97 TJ,

5spd, 2.5L, no AC) was all jacked up from being in the persian gulf for 2.5 years. So I decided to do some

work on it. For some reason (I honestly don't remember now) I decided to change the gear oil in the transmission

and transfer case. I do remember using two different oils and have had no problems with the transfer case.



On with the transmission. I used what the shop manual recommended, and ever since it has been slightly louder

in higher gears, and I've had to gently encourage it to go in to second when cold. In my ignorance, I

thought it meant "tighter" gear meshing. The gears don't grind, and I made it a point to be gentle when

putting it in to second.



Since I obviously put the wrong crap in, I'm going to put Redline in ASAP. Since this thread was focused

on the YJs, does it hold true for the TJ? Also, how many quarts should I buy (stock transfer case)? Do I

need to worry about the transfer case? If so, how much of what should I put in the transfer case? How

should I check for damage (without pulling the transmission)?



Thanks for your help! Hopefully I won't need to learn how to do a trany swap just yet...



Cooper.
image-missing.png
[addsig]
 
1048523

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font class="pn-sub">Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT class="pn-sub"><BLOCKQUOTE>

Since I obviously put the wrong crap in, I'm going to put Redline in ASAP. Since this thread was focused

on the YJs, does it hold true for the TJ? Also, how many quarts should I buy (stock transfer case)? Do I

need to worry about the transfer case? If so, how much of what should I put in the transfer case? How

should I check for damage (without pulling the transmission)?

</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>



Sorry, "(stock transfer case)" should be "(stock transmission)" in the above. Yes, another trick to inch toward

"member" status.



Cooper.[addsig]
 
1048583

Please give me more detail as to where you see the leak in the line or master.If the leak is right where the line comes out of the master and you have a plastic master the line is held in with a tiny roll pin which needs to be removed with a punch and SMALL hammer,if the leak is inside the vehicle where the master comes through the fire wall the master can be replaced or rebuilt, if the line itself is leaking replace with new or have a hydraulic shop fab. one for you(DON'T TRY TO SOLDER LINE IF I UNDERSTOOD YOU CORRECTLY AFTER ALL IT IS HYDRAULIC PRESSURE AND WILL NOT HOLD). Happy leak hunting.[addsig]
 

1048584

The clutch master is located right beside the brake booster.Alot of the time have to pry up on the front grill support rod because the master is directly underneath it (engineers are soooooo smart).

[addsig]
 
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