1993 Cherokee (XJ) Country: Build by TWDJ

[TWDJ]

First pic ... using the method outlined by GoJeep, I centered the front axle by moving the track bar 15/16th" toward the driver's side. I'm not concerned for the back side as there is reinforcement but will need to weld a heavy washer to the front before any hard off-roading is done.

 

[TWDJ]

Here's the Iron Rock Off-road Slip Yoke Eliminator and driveshaft. It is the front driveshaft out of a XJ with the AW4 automatic and NP231 TC. New u-joints (3).

What I learned was the 3 bolts holding the cone on the end of the NP231 is NOT symmetrical (not an equilateral triangle - 60*). It only goes on one way so don't be too fast to dismiss it as not drilled properly.

 

[TWDJ]

Some before and after shots ...

 

[jps4jeep]

Looks realy good, what type of wheeling are you planning on doing? there is a cheap method to trimming the fenders and re-using the stock flares. there is a likely hood that you will rub.

I really like it, I prefer the pre 96 XJ's, I think they simply look better.

 

[TWDJ]

jps4jeep: Yeah, fender trimming and the rest is in the planning stages now. Then, off they come for paint and refreshing along with grill, bumpers, etc.

 

[TWDJ]

As I stated previously, the track bar is getting out toward the edge on the front of the track bar mount. My thought is to weld a plate to the front of the "channel" to give more material. As the existing mount is only 1/8" steel channel, then adding a 1/8" steel plate to the front that extends 1/4" below and 1/4" further toward the driver's side should be more than sufficient, strength-wise. The back part of that channel has NOT been cut off like the front so there is plenty of strength back there.

One other item I noted when doing the relocation: while allowing the front to droop during the install of the front suspension, it was noted that it appeared to be limited by some part or another and we assumed TREs. While relocating, I saw the the track bar actually had contacted the top of the channel as it was mis-shappen from the round track bar contacting the flat upper edge. By moving the bar out further, I actually added significantly more droop. Not sure how much as of yet.

As I have the v8ZJ tie rod yet to install, I will be replacing all TREs with units that have more movement thus adding more droop. Hey, part of the fun is finding the combinations instead of just buying. I'm also thinking (DANGER, Will Robinson!) at the same time I'll do an OTK to eliminate some of the angles. Still working on that one, though.

 

[TWDJ]

The next thing on the list to do was relocate and secure the front and rear brake lines.

After a fair amount of research, I discovered you do not need to get longer brake lines but relocate the ones that are already in place. GoJeep has a write-up on doing the rear brake line and most of the suspension suppliers have a similar bracket for the front.

After finishing, full flex is still there.

 

[tow_hook]

looks good

 

[TWDJ]

looks good

Thanks! Been looking forward to doing something like this for a long time. It's as much fun as it is therapeutic.

 

[TWDJ]

What I got done this weekend:

1 - Measurements around the lift and new tires (after 100 miles).



2 - Installed the RC sway bar disconnect. Neat setup! Hadn't used a sway bar since last spring.

3 - Measured the DS and pinion angles. With a 6* shim already in place, I measured the pinion at 12* and DS at 18*. A visual inspection shows the pinion pointed lower than the DS. This gave pause for concern. With those numbers, it would appear I'd need to increase the shim to ~10* to get close to the 1-2* area that the double cardon DS needs to operate in. Those numbers, though, do not seem reasonable as I had the same issue with my YJ years ago.

After speaking to Steve, my personal expert/mentor/guru the idea was floated that went something like this: My lift in the rear is a RE 4.5" spring pack with the standard/OEM shackles as was my YJ. Most folks get longer shackles when doing a leaf spring lift which will increase the pinion angle all by itself. Am I shooting myself in the foot by NOT using shackles?

As it turns out, I would not mind another 1" lift in the rear to accommodate the effect of gear and other loads in the back to I'm open to a 1" shackle lift if that would take care of the pinion/DS issue as well.

Looking for input from those who've seen this before … and THANKS in advance.

 

[TWDJ]

What I did today: 2/14

Pulling in and out of my driveway or making a tight turn at speed, the tires would rub on the back side of the front venders.

GoJeep has a great write-up on getting extra space for clearance just for that situation. How much space? Here are the pics.

 

[TWDJ]

Over the last couple of weeks there has been a whole lot of prepping, waiting and not a lot to show but, at last, there is something of some significance.

1 - Prepped the track bar mount, control arm drop bracket reinforcement and rear shock mount (cut for relocation) for welding.

2 - Did some fender liner and sheet metal trimming. Removed the front valance.

3 - Found a hole (no idea when or how it got there) in the vacuum bottle located behind the passenger side of the front fender … no wonder the speed control barely worked and the heater operated funky.

Welded the track bar reinforcement in place. Cleaned up and painted.

Not so much luck welding the CADB reinforcement. Turns out the welder is too small. Cleaned up area and repainted. Needs to have something before going off-road … I have another idea I'll share later after it is designed and installed. Didn't try to weld the shock mount for the same reason.

Fender trimming turned out well. Should take care of things until I decide if off-roading the Cherokee is going to get more serious.

Replaced the vacuum bottle.

Also remeasured the rear DL angle … with the 6* shim in place, there is still a 6* difference between the pinion and output shaft. Going to drive a bit without the rear DS to see if there is any change in the vibrations at speed or whether I'm feeling the tires. Will update after the evaluation.

Here are some pics of the completed fender/liner trimming --

 

[TWDJ]

It's been a while since I did any kind of update, so there's not much in the way of pics ... BUT ... here's what's gotten done:

1 - Welded the reinforcement onto the lower track bar mount.
2 - Welded the rear, lower shock mounts (raised 2" - better ground clearance).
3 - Installed the RC X-flex LCAs (those are BIG!)
4 - Finished the fender and liner trimming.
5 - Replaced the vacuum assist bottle.
6 - Reinstalled the rear DS. No unacceptable vibrations at freeway speeds so sounds like all is good.

Next up: steering and armor.

 

[TWDJ]

Thought I'd throw in a couple of pics on the finished rear shock mount relocation. This actually raised the shock and increased ground clearance by almost 2-1/2" … and at the same time, corrected for the 5" lift and 6* shim needed to bring the pinion angle back into spec for the double carden driveshaft.

As before, BIG thanks to GoJeep for showing how to make all this happen.

The only thing I did differently from his instructions was when it came time to weld into place. First upper mount was bolted in place then, with vehicle weight on the tires and suspension, swung the shock into place with the lower mount already bolted to the shock. In this way I felt the shock would be in a "neutral" position both upper and lower so, when placed against the axle, it would be in position with no binding top or bottom. When done, the lower mount slid onto the lower mounting pin like it was greased.

 

[TWDJ]

Thought I'd do a quick update as there has been a lot more time working, traveling for work and wheeling when possible than actually work on the XJ. Since my last update ...

1 - Installed the v8ZJ tie rod ... WAY bigger.
2 - Driveway alignment "a la" GoJeep. When new tires were put on toe was a bit off but caster was right on.
3 - New tires: Toyo 33x13.50R15. What a difference!

New thing "to do" ... found some rust on the front passenger side floorboard so will need to remove carpet and all to see what is up with that.
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[TWDJ]

Observation: after playing on the beach and dunes at Pismo a couple of weeks ago with Derek and Camilo, I found that my "newly done" alignment was off. Tires were not wearing but steering wheel was about 15* to starboard. Only thing I can think is the steering box/frame got tweaked somewhat during all the fun.

Already had it in my head to reinforce the frame later for crawling but have decided to make that a more immediate priority. I have a set of inner and outer reinforcements on the way from C-Rok and will get those installed before resetting the alignment. Then, we'll see how that changes things.

Also, running the new tires at 29psi does not give full footprint on the street so trying now at 26psi to see how that works.
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[oneofthefewbmx]

man good write-up...sharp rig too

 

[TWDJ]

man good write-up...sharp rig too

Thanks much!
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[TWDJ]

Made an important modification over the weekend ...

 

[TWDJ]

Thought I'd do a quick update on the progress on the XJ.

Most recent modifications and repairs included a new alternator and battery which made a most inconvenient exit while at Pismo Beach. Again, a big THANK YOU to Derek and Kyle from the JeepForum for running Ronie and I around to get parts then helping with R&R in the campground. A special "shout out" to PismoXJ99, also from JeepForum, who happened to be working that night and got us started on the right track then came by later to check on progress before heading home.

After running the dunes a bit for a couple of days, I found the steering wheel a bit off center again. Afraid this might have been more than just a need for a realignment, I purchased the C-Rok inner and outer steering box reinforcement plates. Between those and the Warrior Products steering box brace I do not think I'll be worrying about that area again.

Also in my pile of pieces is the Go-fer-it for flipping the driver side tie rod and a v8WJ pitman arm. That will get the tie rod on top of the driver side knuckle for clearance and the pitman arm is about a 1" drop from stock. With the v8WJ, the "bump steer" is said to be minimal to nonexistent so I'll let you know how it works out for me.

After that, I'm going to replace the remainder of the "block off" screws on my running gear and install grease zirks … then spend the remainder of the afternoon greasing them all. GEEZ, there are a bunch!

Well, that ought to keep me out of trouble for a few days anyway. I do have some plans for getting the spare tire inside while still having room for all the trail gear. Between that and taking care of the floor rust discovered a few weeks ago and the headliner that now touches my head, my summer is about set for Cherokee related doings … short the trails and camping of course.

The higher dollar updates and modifications I want to get accomplished (re-gearing, rock rails and frame stiffening) will need to wait until my budget catches up.