1998 Cherokee $1500 and still not fixed

danns71

New member
RE: Wait till your father gets home

Okay, My first post here but I have used the website as a reference before. Valuable info, thanks
1998 jeep cherokee sport, 4.0 inline six
bought it used ran great for about 2 months

Long story but here goes
Three months ago started having problems with jeep cutting out on the road always intermittently. Noone could find problem, took it to dealer and they checked fuel and emissions said everything was great. Ihad emissions and fuel completely cleaned by them. Month later problems still continued but vehicle started to backfire. I changed spark plugs and wires. Most times when it cuts out you can punch the accelerator and it will respond, sometimes not. Most times you can start it right back up as you are coasting but sometimes it takes some cranking and pumping to get it to start. May be flooded from trying to get it to not die by punching the gas pedal. Anyhow, sent it to my parents mechanic after a light finally came on. They replaced distributor cap, rotor and told me to get catalytic converter replaced. I had the same problems on the way home from mechanic. I bought the OBD-II hand scanner. Got code PO351, which is ignition coil primary circuit...not achieving max. dwell time etc. and the cat. conv. code of PO420. Changed Ignition coil and had mechanic install new cat. conv. He said O2 sensors looked good. He had to cut a hole to put in O2 sensor in the cat. conv. Still had problems same day. Changed spark plugs again. Took it back to my parents mechanic. They said actual distributor had a loose shaft and they replaced it. They said the O2 wires had some problem and they fixed it. Ran three days of diagnostics on it and searched high and low for problem, pulled out PCM and sent it to another man to have it tested. From your website I told them to change the CPS and they did. Still no fix. Brain tested good so they reinstalled it. Called me to get electrical diagram for aftermarket remote starting system( bulldog security), said there was a short in it. I bought jeep used with system in it. They pulled box out but not harness and told me to take it to a car audio place to have it uninstalled. I took it to audio place and had it removed. Manb said whoever put system in should be run over in the street first and then shot cause it was a hillbilly job. Still have problem. Now the codes were for the ignition coil, the MAP sensor and the CPS sensor. Cuts out and dies on road, fast or slow, within 20 min or after 1 hour. Backfires and/or sputters then dies or it could be quiet and die silently. If I drive it like I am mad at it it seems to do better. Took jeep to another dealership, they checked entire wiring harness, cause I thought the aftermarket system may have bungled up the wiring somehow. they said all was well with wires. Said they thouht it was the PCM and they said you can't really test them especially not off of vehicle so they replaced it with used one. Everything was good for about 40 miles then died and backfired again. Now I have still the PO351 ignition coil code and the PO420 catylyst not working efficiently code.

I think I need to replace the O2 sensors to fix the catalyst. I had my boss look for vaccuum leak or problem he didn't see any but I haven't had a pro check for vac leaks. The fuel filter is in tank attached to a fuel pressure regulator. Recomended change is 85,000 miles for fuel filter, but in tank I don't think its been changed and I am at 111,000, but dealership said pressure was great on it. Seems like sometimes the problem is only when I hit bumps but then it happens on smooth surfaces too. O2 sensors recommended change at 80,000 miles.

What is the deal? Why the ignition coil code? Why backfiring? Why dying? Why cant dealership mechanics grow a brain and do what their paid to do? I am a poor boy,25 yrs old, in college, working 40 a week at a job and 40 a week on this dang jeep. paid 4800 for jeep and invested 1500 in this prob. I am going broke trying to fix it but can't even sell it cause it wont run long enough and I would feel horrible dumping this problem on someone else. Wifes vehicle bought it so her and 8 month old son would have a safe dependable vehicle, now she is more content with her old geo metro.

Please help!
Dan
 

first thing breathe. that is one long paragragh...

Any modifications done to the jeep? extra lights? another kill switch? aftermarket radio?



danns71 said:
He had to cut a hole to put in O2 sensor in the cat. conv.

This worries me...maybe
 
RE: Genuine Gear Quick Lock D35

Did they replace the primary pick-up coil IN the distributor? It's the plastic ring that the wires at the bottom of the distributor cap are connected to.
 
Yes the pick up coil in the distributor was replaced.
Yes there are two aftermarket parts that were on the jeep only one remains and that is the radio/cd player. the bulldog security remote start system has been completely removed.

What about the speed sensor or O2 sensors?
 

might be a little off, and i'm not sure that its exactly what you are experiencing.

when i have less than 1/4 tank of gas, and i take a sharp left turn (a turn that lasts more than like 5 seconds), the engine will cut out (sputter a bit, and i try to give it gas). most of the time, it will regain power and sometimes i will have to restart it.

it NEVER does it unless i'm turning left, doesn't do it when i'm turning right, and doesn't do it when i'm driving straight. so i just go easy on the hard left turns. i'm sure it has something to do with how the fuel gets to the engine, not a big deal tho.

sound anything like your problem?
 
I would be driving along, usually after the car was good and warm, the engine would just die.

Replaced crankshaft position sensor, and didn't fix the problem.

Turned out to be the fuel pump wasn't delivering fuel very well. Cost me $500 at the dealer.

98 jeep cherokee sport 120k

TM
 
RE: Building a fiberglass center console....any advice?

Just another guess but I would look over the wiring to the coil. The bull dog remote stared has an option to be wired to the tach input off off of the computer. This tells it when the engine is actually running. It is possible the is intermittenly shorting out the coil causing it to loose power.
 

siminsez01 said:
might be a little off, and i'm not sure that its exactly what you are experiencing.

when i have less than 1/4 tank of gas, and i take a sharp left turn (a turn that lasts more than like 5 seconds), the engine will cut out (sputter a bit, and i try to give it gas). most of the time, it will regain power and sometimes i will have to restart it.

it NEVER does it unless i'm turning left, doesn't do it when i'm turning right, and doesn't do it when i'm driving straight. so i just go easy on the hard left turns. i'm sure it has something to do with how the fuel gets to the engine, not a big deal tho.

sound anything like your problem?

I have that EXACT problem. I keep the gas above 1/2 and it never does it. I am starting to think that the problem is the o2 sensor. I have read on other problems of this stalling after the car is running (my ZJ does it sometimes on ling highway drives). So I think I am in the same boat as you guys. My check engine light is on so I will bring it to an auto parts store for them to read the codes.

Hey, also, do any of your cars idle very low at times, sometimes when I come to a stop my car is idling at about 300-500 rpms... Thus making my powersteering very hard because the pump isnt pumping at the low rpms.
 
RE: title question in pa

I have a problem that sounds alot like yours. Mine seems to be heat related, when the temp gets to about 215-220 it will sputter underload and will stall at stops. Normaly the temp will stay at 210, on hot days or off roading it will get up there and have that problem.
 
The fuel pump canister runs dry because the fuel return hose must have slipped off the return connection, causing the fuel to dump in the tank which leaves no reserve in the canister case of a turn or quick acceleration. Recommend to replace the unit (should run about $150).
 

Have you checked your battery? My jeep used to not like to start, chug, cut in and out while accelerating, sometimes refuse to start for days, start then die a few minutes later, etc. I took it to like 6 different mechanics and of course it would never do anything while they had it. All they could tell me was it sounded like an intermittent wiring problem that would require serious $$ and time to search out. The last time it did it to me (sophomore year in college) I was in a different town and so I found a new mechanic and he swapped out the battery and it's never done it since. I thought battery problems only occurred with starting the vehicle but he said it was my battery that was causing all of this. And since it hasn't happened since that new battery I guess I have to believe him.
 
Re: Wait till your father gets home

Okay, My first post here but I have used the website as a reference before. Valuable info, thanks
1998 jeep cherokee sport, 4.0 inline six
bought it used ran great for about 2 months

Long story but here goes
Three months ago started having problems with jeep cutting out on the road always intermittently. Noone could find problem, took it to dealer and they checked fuel and emissions said everything was great. Ihad emissions and fuel completely cleaned by them. Month later problems still continued but vehicle started to backfire. I changed spark plugs and wires. Most times when it cuts out you can punch the accelerator and it will respond, sometimes not. Most times you can start it right back up as you are coasting but sometimes it takes some cranking and pumping to get it to start. May be flooded from trying to get it to not die by punching the gas pedal. Anyhow, sent it to my parents mechanic after a light finally came on. They replaced distributor cap, rotor and told me to get catalytic converter replaced. I had the same problems on the way home from mechanic. I bought the OBD-II hand scanner. Got code PO351, which is ignition coil primary circuit...not achieving max. dwell time etc. and the cat. conv. code of PO420. Changed Ignition coil and had mechanic install new cat. conv. He said O2 sensors looked good. He had to cut a hole to put in O2 sensor in the cat. conv. Still had problems same day. Changed spark plugs again. Took it back to my parents mechanic. They said actual distributor had a loose shaft and they replaced it. They said the O2 wires had some problem and they fixed it. Ran three days of diagnostics on it and searched high and low for problem, pulled out PCM and sent it to another man to have it tested. From your website I told them to change the CPS and they did. Still no fix. Brain tested good so they reinstalled it. Called me to get electrical diagram for aftermarket remote starting system( bulldog security), said there was a short in it. I bought jeep used with system in it. They pulled box out but not harness and told me to take it to a car audio place to have it uninstalled. I took it to audio place and had it removed. Manb said whoever put system in should be run over in the street first and then shot cause it was a hillbilly job. Still have problem. Now the codes were for the ignition coil, the MAP sensor and the CPS sensor. Cuts out and dies on road, fast or slow, within 20 min or after 1 hour. Backfires and/or sputters then dies or it could be quiet and die silently. If I drive it like I am mad at it it seems to do better. Took jeep to another dealership, they checked entire wiring harness, cause I thought the aftermarket system may have bungled up the wiring somehow. they said all was well with wires. Said they thouht it was the PCM and they said you can't really test them especially not off of vehicle so they replaced it with used one. Everything was good for about 40 miles then died and backfired again. Now I have still the PO351 ignition coil code and the PO420 catylyst not working efficiently code.

I think I need to replace the O2 sensors to fix the catalyst. I had my boss look for vaccuum leak or problem he didn't see any but I haven't had a pro check for vac leaks. The fuel filter is in tank attached to a fuel pressure regulator. Recomended change is 85,000 miles for fuel filter, but in tank I don't think its been changed and I am at 111,000, but dealership said pressure was great on it. Seems like sometimes the problem is only when I hit bumps but then it happens on smooth surfaces too. O2 sensors recommended change at 80,000 miles.

What is the deal? Why the ignition coil code? Why backfiring? Why dying? Why cant dealership mechanics grow a brain and do what their paid to do? I am a poor boy,25 yrs old, in college, working 40 a week at a job and 40 a week on this dang jeep. paid 4800 for jeep and invested 1500 in this prob. I am going broke trying to fix it but can't even sell it cause it wont run long enough and I would feel horrible dumping this problem on someone else. Wifes vehicle bought it so her and 8 month old son would have a safe dependable vehicle, now she is more content with her old geo metro.

Please help!
Dan

Dan
Did you ever find the one thing that fixed your problem? I have a 96 gc doing the same thing but I haven't changed as many parts as you.
 
Danns71
Did you ever find the one thing that fixed your problem? I have a 96 gc doing the same thing but I haven't changed as many parts as you.
 

Battery is your problem the 96 and newer OBDII systems require 12.3 volts just to run the alt can't keep up with the charging and the battery falls below 12.3 volts there for the vehicle stalls! have your alt checked also most shops can put a load on it and see if its bad! same with the battery! Good Luck!
 
Hahaha, this is so funny!!!! U spent so much money when all u gotta spend is about $100. Buy brand new crankshaft and egnition coil!!!!!!! :)and thank me later :D
 
I bought a crankshaft sensor but before installing I pulled the pcm plugs apart cleaned them and packed in dyelectric greese and this has greatly reduced my stalling problems. I think there must be a crack in the plug. It now starts to stall but has not quit all the way when warming up. After warmed up there is no problem. I will drive it awhile before going farther with changing crankshaft sensor.
 

I fixed the stalling problem, it was the PCM, it was shorting out enternally. I got another PCK from the junkyard for $65 and replaced it and that fixed my problem. Before that I thought it was one of the PCM plugs so I got a junkyard wireharness for all 3 plugs all the way to the transmission and that didn't fix the stalling, then we found that any movement of the PCM caused it to die so we replaced the PCM and that fixed my problem.
 
:lol:LMAO:lol:
first thing breathe. that is one long paragragh...
Dennis I agree with you there:D:p

most common problems TPS / CPS , Map sensor , Fuel pump , o 2 sensor , clogged air intake , fouled out plugs
I see many people pay $1000s of dollars to fix this same problem and it shouldn't
if you bring it to a good mech that knows what he is doing , he is aware of these issues .
there a everyday thing with these xjs
I will put my rep on it that is the fuel pump and thats not even seeing the jeep first
 
Last edited:
Please go check the ground that comes off the battery where it connects to the block under the ignition coil... This bolt is often loose dirty and can cause non starting, die out, stalling, and just about every other electrical problem.. Ive seen this many times and cost nothing but some elbow-grease. Sounds simple rite? It is.
 
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