2 quick questoins u joints and 4wd engage

Benskate1

New member
well while putting a new front axle in and reconnecting the front driveshaft a spring popped out of the side of the U joint and one of the caps fell off dropping some of the bearings on the ground, i put as many as i could find back in but some were missing, what might happen? how important is this, the answer is pretty obvious but id thought id ask

my 4 wd light doesnt come on, how do i know if my front tires even get power to em? what should i check>
 

If the 4 wheel drive light isn't coming on, there is a good chance that the front axle is not engageing, as the light's vacuum switch and the front axle motor use the same vacuum line. This switch is a little blue thing (looks like capacitor), which has one wire and a vacuum line attached to it. When the switch receives vacuum, the 4x4 lamp is grounded.

Then again your bulb could just be burned out :mrgreen:

-Nick :!:
 
well while putting a new front axle in and reconnecting the front driveshaft a spring popped out of the side of the U joint and one of the caps fell off dropping some of the bearings on the ground, i put as many as i could find back in but some were missing, what might happen? how important is this, the answer is pretty obvious but id thought id ask

I think U joints aren't too expensive. Go buy a new one at your local parts store and have the peace of mind of knowing that little screw up of yours won't cause big problems down the road.[/quote]
 
Buy you some new U joints the price is small and the peace of mind is priceless.

If you are unsure if the 4wd is engauged just roll down the window turn the wheels all the way to the right while in mud sand or even a grassy lot when wet. Now stick your head out the window look at your front tire and rev her up real good and dump the clutch while in 4WD. heheeh You will know soon enough if it is working! tug :lol:
 

Tug-n-pull said:
If you are unsure if the 4wd is engauged just roll down the window turn the wheels all the way to the right while in mud sand or even a grassy lot when wet. Now stick your head out the window look at your front tire and rev her up real good and dump the clutch while in 4WD. heheeh You will know soon enough if it is working! tug :lol:


you're mean tug...lol
 
If you try Tug´s methode, close your mouth and wear glasses. A tight slow peed turn on dry pavement, will tell you pretty quick if the transfer is in 4X, the tires will squeel, the steering wheel will get really stiff and often buck.
I keep an old speaker magnet in the garage to find dropped bearings and such. If the needle bearings in the old cap, are the same size and not rusted throw a couple of them in there, until you get a new U-joint.
 

Here's a quick rundown on troubleshooting the vacuum front axle disconnect that is the reason why your 4wd light won't turn on:
  • Jeep running in park or neutral with e-brake on/tires chocked
    Disconnect the 2-port vacuum connection at the front axle (plug on pass. side of axle)
    Have another person shift from 2wd to 4wd and back while you feel for vacuum at the 2 ports
    Vacuum should switch from one port to the other when shifting from 2wd to 4wd, and switch back when going from 4wd to 2wd. Vacuum strength should be the same between the two ports


If the vacuum checks out, i'd remove the vacuum shift mechanism from the front axle (4 bolts, a little gear oil will leak out). Pay attention to how the shift fork engages the axle collar when you remove this, it'll have to go back together the same way.

Move the shift fork by hand, back and forth several times. Spray liberally with WD40 the shaft that the shift fork mounts to. Also spray WD40 into the vacuum ports of the disconnect while moving the shift fork by hand.

Reassemble and try it out. It should work good considering you had good vacuum in each port (not at the same time).

If you have poor or no vacuum, you'll have to trace the vacuum lines and check for damage. A common spot is near the battery where battery acid can corrode the line.

If all the vacuum lines check out and still no worky, it may be a bad switch in the transfer case. The switch screws into the top of the transfer case where the 4 vacuum lines attach. Easy to replace.
 
nutter bypass

nice, well i did that and all the vaccume now is workin right, a line was crimped and had a hole in it, now the only problem is the disengage, ill work on that later. after a almost roll over im a little shaken up and dont think ill be usin 4x4 for a wee bit.
 
Get back on that horse man! A roll over is a scary thing but wait till you get back out there on the trail the memories of that will fade away as you see new chance to roll it over. tug
 

yea, ive already got the bug back. haha. i got some of these cooper discovery sst tires, pretty nice, great traction from some wierd tire.
 
door wont shut!!

Anyone know the name of the mechanical repalacement for the vacuum accuator switch? this is a cable that replaces the vacuum system. I saw them posted here last year but don't know where to get them.

P.S. Where did all my post numbers go. I'm a green horn again.....lol
 
Hi,

The Post Counts all got blanked out after the forum software was updated to the newest version of phpBB. The post counts were all restored manually one by one, but many member's counts never got restored (including mine) :mrgreen:

The cable product you're looking for is called Posi-Lock. However, for about $20 you can make your own manual cable-actuated system for your front axle shifting motor. Do a search in these forums, TUG has posted the link to the write-up on this procedure many times. :mrgreen:

-Nick :!:
 
Back
Top