4' or 6"

03_Rubicon

03_Rubicon

New member
Guys... I am looking at putting a lift on the Rubicon this spring... My delima is.... I dont want to buy a 4" and wish I would have gotten a 6" and vice versa.... Im not going to be doing to much carzy off roading with it until its paid off....

Any suggestions? Comments?

Thanks!!
 

Well 4" will clear 33's easily, and 35's with a one inch body lift If you aren't gonna be doing anything crazy, I'd say stick to 4" and tires that aren't gonna totally punish your u-joints, or cause you to need a re-gear terribly bad. My dad has a 4" Full Traction lift on his 03 Rubi, and runs 33's with a 1" BL. He could easily clear 35's, but he doesn't want to step up to the next size because he doesn't want to re-gear.
 
currupt4130 said:
Well 4" will clear 33's easily, and 35's with a one inch body lift If you aren't gonna be doing anything crazy, I'd say stick to 4" and tires that aren't gonna totally punish your u-joints, or cause you to need a re-gear terribly bad. My dad has a 4" Full Traction lift on his 03 Rubi, and runs 33's with a 1" BL. He could easily clear 35's, but he doesn't want to step up to the next size because he doesn't want to re-gear.
Click to expand...

Do you have a picture of it?

Im trying to compare pictures online and having a hard time finding one... I was trying to stay away from body lifts... but that does sound like a good idea....I think If I keep my 16" rims that itself is another inch....
 
A 4 inch lift will clear 35's with no problems and some fender rubbing at extream angles.
The question is what do you want to do with your Rubi...are you wanting it for mudding? Rock crawling...ask your self what kind of off-roading will you be doing once you got it paid for.
 

I asked myself the same question when I was in the market for a lift... I went for the 6" (soa) glad I did too... BUT there are problems that eventually creep up on you. For instance, I just put a high steer on my jeep. I didn't need one, at first, but how many times do I want to change tie rod ends? If you go big, research big, and get prepared to spend big. I'm still glad I went big though...
 
Utah_jeepster said:
A 4 inch lift will clear 35's with no problems and some fender rubbing at extream angles.
The question is what do you want to do with your Rubi...are you wanting it for mudding? Rock crawling...ask your self what kind of off-roading will you be doing once you got it paid for.
Click to expand...

Little bit of both... I dont play to hard with it right now with it being my daily driver... Ive wanted one for four years... and I dont want to have it in the shop because i was careless...

Im not looking at doing anything with the gears for the time being, Just kinda want to do it good..but cheap...... Ive got the standard 4:10... previously a 4" suspension with a one inch body was suggested. Would this be a safe bet.... for what im looking for?... will 35's cause any gear damage? Or should I stick with 33's....

Thanks Guys!!
 
You're jeep may come with lower gears in it since it's a Rubi, but the thing you need to worry about breaking are the axles. Most people upgrade to a Dana 44 with 35" tires. Your jeep has D44s front and rear, but if you put the larger tires on with stock gearing you will notice a drop in power especially in the top end. Find out what gear ratio are in your axles, I think it's lower (numerically higher) than 3.07 which would be great for larger tires.
 

Rubicons all come with 4.10's.
Run the 33's. Upgrade to 35's when you get it paid off and decide to hit the trails a little harder.
 
My dad's rig:

IMG_6595-1.jpg

IMG_7613-1.jpg

IMG_7615-1.jpg
 
man I need to go to tellico



Less lift, more tire.

I run a simple 4" lift with Q's
plunge024-1.jpg

(sorry for the lame picture, only one I could find.)
 

03_Rubicon said:
Little bit of both... I dont play to hard with it right now with it being my daily driver... Ive wanted one for four years... and I dont want to have it in the shop because i was careless...

Im not looking at doing anything with the gears for the time being, Just kinda want to do it good..but cheap...... Ive got the standard 4:10... previously a 4" suspension with a one inch body was suggested. Would this be a safe bet.... for what im looking for?... will 35's cause any gear damage? Or should I stick with 33's....

Thanks Guys!!
Click to expand...

If I were you, I would go with 4" of lift and 33". That combination should get you through most trails (granted, you will have to pick your lines a little more carefully than someone with 37" tires, but most likely you will get to ride many of the same trails) and will not require tons of other mods like you will if you go bigger (if I put in 6" of suspension lift, I would also use an over the top steering, for starters).

Also, keep in mind that 33" tires will give you better gas mileage than 35's with the same gearing, something to keep in mind because you mentioned that this is your daily driver... Also, the 33" tires should not cause excesive stress on your current setup (brakes, steering, axles, etc.).

I agree with red rooster about the 35's, and I would probably go even as far as to say that I would keep two sets of wheels and tires, and would replace the entire set when you go out trail riding, and I would put the 33" tires back on for daily driving (probably go as far as using AT's for the daily driving if I would go in this direction, which again will improve mpg a little, and save the thread of the MT's, which are more expensive, for trail riding).

currupt4130 said:
My dad's rig:
Click to expand...

Corrupt,

That's a nice rig your dad has!

Felipe
 
Currupt, tell pops to keep his hand off the sport bar. Hasn't he watched you roll enough to know that by now.

Sincerely,
Captain Safety
 
Currupt, I love your dad's rubi and that's exactly what I want to do with mine. Derek, I have an 05 and have been doing research as well. Eventually, I'm going to do it big, however, it's my daily driver as well. I'm going to do a 4" short arm with 33x10.5s on aluminum wheels (less rolling mass and wind resistance than 12.5s with steel wheels) which should help. My theory is do a short arm lift now because it doesn't require cutting the frame and lengthening drive shafts, etc. The current delema is which short arm lift to do? One local shop says Rubicon express ($900) with a new drive shaft and CV joint ($500 from rubi express vs $150 at a local machine shop to lengthen the driveshaft); another shop says Skyjacker because it doesn't have heim joints like the rubi express. Apparently, according to the owner, the heim joints are great for flex and slow offroading, however they aren't as great for highway driving because they crack and wear out faster. Also the second shop says the skyjacker lift has a T case lowering bracket and doesn't require a driveshaft change.

Can anyone clarify for us 1) are heim joints better 2)does a 4" short arm need a CV joint and longer drive shaft?

Thanks
 

I dont know about the heim joints, but i would recommend a CV drive shaft... You can get away with a TC lowering kit (ussually comes with the lift), though.
 
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