91 yj clutch problem - updated question on torque arm

[Bounty__Hunter]

snorkel

Some slop in the torque bushings is normal, new ones are molded to have more than enough room for the torque arm. It still does it's job by limiting twist in the drivetrain. Just make sure the upper and lower nuts are pretty tight.

The stealership part includes the stud, 2 bushings, and 2 nuts, for around $15.

 

[jules]

When I got my jeep, my torque arm was so loose that it shuddered in 1st gear and reverse. Not knowing, I replaced the clutch but I think that the torque arm was the culprit since my old clutch looked new. I got one from the stealership and tighented it as tight as I could. The Haynes manual says there should be some play i it. I made sure there was none.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Double check the transmission mount, as it's the main support and resistance to torque before there's any pressure on the torque mount.

 

[Junkpile]

As far as the clutch goes, no you don't need a heavy duty clutch. You DO however need a quality clutch. If you want to spend the money, go to the dealership and buy a factory one or go to one of the better parts houses and buy their top shelf model. The budget kits suck. The Advance and Auto Zone clutches REALLY suck. So you can buy a high quality standard replacement clutch, or for a little more money you can step up to one with some extra holding power. I've got a Centerforce that's about five years old. It's been behind 2 built V8s and it's pushed everything from 33"ATs to 39"Muds and it still holds better than anything on the shelves at Advance.
A lifetime warranty causes more aggravation than it's worth with a clutch. You run the POS for a few months, do the labor to rip it out, take it back and get a new one. Then in a few months, you do it again. Then again........ and they act like they're doing YOU a favor by replacing the overpriced junk. If you can, buy a nice one and save yourself some work.