97 Jeep Wrangler

[JeepRox]

I feel like you are a very argumentative person. Let it go for gods sake. My mechanic called me today and he is holding my jeep for a few days to make sure he corrected the issue. I have thanked everyone for their input and if I need any help in the future may inquire again or may not..

 

[volaredon]

Hope he got it taken care of; sounds like a thorough guy there; most like the "assembly line" way of get em in, get em out; or at least the boss/owners do!
It's rare to find a repair place more concerned with making sure the problem's solved and the customer's gonna be happy, versus profits. They fail to realize that if the customer's happy, the profits will follow. they tend to go after "profit first".

On your assessment of me being "argumentative", I actually try not to be; but with being outta work, on disability, wanting to get back working again, but feeling basically "damaged goods"/"unwanted" it's been hard. Sorry if it shows as being "rough" in my posts. It goes back to something I said about not knowing you or your Jeep? You don't know me, either.
I damn near lost my foot 2 years ago to a chain saw that decided to kick back. thats why I ain't working. and have time to sit on the computer and try to help out people with vehicle problems. I spent 18 years as a professional "wrench". but its hard,, if not impossible, to properly troubleshoot "long distance".

 

[jps4jeep]

My mechanic called me today and he is holding my jeep for a few days to make sure he corrected the issue. I have thanked everyone for their input and if I need any help in the future may inquire again or may not..

HAHA thats mechanic talk for.. I'll fix it later

PS what happen to the nice avitar you had, a lot easier on the eyes

 

[JeepRox]

LOL...I think he's to sexy for himself.... Jeep is fixed for now. Just letting everyone know...Thanks again.

Roxy

 

[Saddle Tramp]

Rox-

Don’t leave us in suspense, what was the problem?

 

[palehawaiian]

I own a 89 ford F150 with the 300 six in it. It has the ORIGINAL wires cap and plugs. 168k I bought new wires thinking why not. The new ones died after a week so i had to put the old ones back on to drive it. That was two years ago and i still havent replaced them again.

 

[JeepRox]

I had him change the plugs/wires/cap/rotar/he did a few other things to it, it runs great the initial starting of it is what I'm trying to get him to fix, it rolls over for a few time then it starts or I have to shut it off and try it again. It always pops right off the second time, but it did not do this before he messed with the manifold. I might get a chance to mess with it this weekend, with work and the commute I have no time.
He's a good mechanic but he is young....

 

[SteelHeadz]

MMMmm, thats strange. If the fuel pressure regulator on that is on the fuel rail, it's vacuum actuated, check that. I would also do a fuel pressure leak down test as symptom seems to fit. Just a suggestion.

 

[JeepRox]

Thanks for the suggestion. I appreciate it.

 

[palehawaiian]

The evap system uses the fuel vapor that is collected to start the engine. If there is a problem with the evap canister then the ECU will pull in air not fuel vapor. causeing the engine not to start from cold. Have your mechanic check the Evap canister, he may have unplugged a hose from that or something. Hope that helps, just my two cents.

 

[volaredon]

have him screw a fuel pressure test gauge to the rail and check for fuel press. bleeding down upon shut down; meaning that every time you start it you basically gotta prime the line and fill it with fuel, before it can start. Been there done that. The reg for that is on top of the fuel pump module on the tank; also check for "pinholes" in the line.

 

[SteelHeadz]

The evap system uses the fuel vapor that is collected to start the engine. If there is a problem with the evap canister then the ECU will pull in air not fuel vapor. causeing the engine not to start from cold. Have your mechanic check the Evap canister, he may have unplugged a hose from that or something. Hope that helps, just my two cents.

Sorry, although the EVAP system can cause various DTC's to set off ,the evap canister and it's components will not affect the starting system weather by fuel or mechanical.
The function of the EVAP control system is to prevent the emissions of gasoline vapors from the fuel tank into the atmosphere. When fuel evaporates in the fuel tank, the vapors pass through vent hoses or tubes to a carbon filled EVAP canister. They are temporarily held in the canister until they can be drawn into the intake manifold when the engine is running.
All engines use a duty cycle purge system. The PCM controls vapor flow by operating the duty cycle EVAP purge solenoid. This sytem DOES NOT operate until the engine has met the requirements for the PCM to run the EVAP. system while the engine is running.

 

[SteelHeadz]

have him screw a fuel pressure test gauge to the rail and check for fuel press. bleeding down upon shut down; meaning that every time you start it you basically gotta prime the line and fill it with fuel, before it can start. Been there done that. The reg for that is on top of the fuel pump module on the tank; also check for "pinholes" in the line.

That's correct. I'm thinking of the old school fuel delivery system. Here's the test procedures.

1. Remove protective cap at fuel rail test port. Connect the 0 - 414 kPa (0-60 psi) fuel pressure gauge (from gauge set 5069) to test port pressure fitting on fuel rail .
2. Start engine and note pressure gauge reading. Fuel pressure should be 338 kPa ± 5 kPa (49.0 psi ± 2 psi) at idle.
3. If operating pressure is above 51.0 psi, fuel pump is OK but pressure regulator is defective. Replace fuel filter/fuel pressure regulator assembly.

Leak down test.

1. Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
2. Observe test gauge. Normal operating pressure should be 339 kPa ± 34 kPa (49.2 psi ± 5 psi)
3. Shut engine off.
4. Pressure should not fall below 30 psi for five minutes.
5. If pressure falls below 30 psi, it must be determined if a fuel injector, the check valve within the fuel pump module, or a fuel tube/line is leaking.
6. Again, start engine and bring to normal operating temperature.
7. Shut engine off.
8. Testing for fuel injector or fuel rail leakage: Clamp off the rubber hose portion of Adaptor Tool between the fuel rail and the test port "T" on Adapter Tool. If pressure now holds at or above 30 psi, a fuel injector or the fuel rail is leaking.
9. Testing for fuel pump check valve, filter/regulator check valve or fuel tube/line leakage: Clamp off the rubber hose portion of Adaptor Tool between the vehicle fuel line and test port "T" on Adapter Tool. If pressure now holds at or above 30 psi, a leak may be found at a fuel tube/line. If no leaks are found at fuel tubes or lines, one of the check valves in either the electric fuel pump or filter/regulator may be leaking.

Note: A quick loss of pressure usually indicates a defective check valve in the filter/regulator. A slow loss of pressure usually indicates a defective check valve in the electric fuel pump.

 

[JeepRox]

Thanks everyone. You guys are awesome for all of your suggestions and help.:shades: