1040699
my first was the brushguard. It looks good, now I'm going for tires. Body Lifts are cheap. Here's an article:
I have all of these mods (plus several more) on my '97 TJ. I didn't add them exactly in this order, but if I had to do it again, these would be my first 10 mods. BTW, you can do the first nine of the ten mods below for just a little more than $500! My TJ is also my daily driver, so on-road manners are almost as important to me as trail performance. Okay, so here's my list:
1. Jeep factory service manual ($100). Yes, it's worth every penny. And no, I am not a mechanic! However, with the help of the FSM, I've been able to do more of my own wrenching than I ever dreamed I was capable of. Labor is extremely expensive. This manual has paid for itself many times over! Yes, you can get an aftermarket manual for much less, but it will not be as useful to you if your automotive mechanical ability is similar to mine. To get your very own Jeep FSM, call Chrysler Publications at 1-800-890-4038.
2. A Good Off-Road Driving Manual ($5). No kidding. Many people believe (myself included), that "The Art of 4-Wheeling is 80% Driver and 20% Vehicle" (no, I don't get a commission). On a recent Club ride, I was able to make it up a particularly nasty hill, that another TJ (with ARB's front and rear, and a 3" Teraflex lift) could not--thank you very much! My favorite book is "Mark A. Smith's Guide to Safe, Common Sense Off-Road Driving", available via mail order only, from Mark A. Smith Off-Roading, Inc., P.O. Box 1601, Georgetown, CA 95634. The $5.00 (check or money order only) includes shipping. It's a 5" x 7", 48-page booklet of off-road driving basics that will fit in your glove box. I still refer to mine periodically. In fact, I usually carry 5 or 6 extra copies to lend out/"give" to novice trail riders (I usually don't get them back; which I think says a lot about this little book!).
3. Tow points, front & rear (<$50 for 4 hooks & mounting h/w). Most 4x4 Clubs require tow points both front and rear. Tow hooks are a piece of cake to install up front, using existing mounting holes. Rear hooks are a little harder to install without drilling into your frame, but that's not really a big deal. For the rear, I chose to use an aftermarket bumper with an integrated 2" receiver hitch (obviously at a higher cost, but receivers are very useful for many other things as well). The loop on the end of a 2" recovery strap fits perfectly into a 2" receiver, and is secured with a 5/8" hitch pin.
4. Recovery strap (20,000 lb. capacity min), with loops, no hooks ($35). Also often a Club requirement. Yes, most everyone else on the trail will/should have one to get you unstuck, but it's customary for the "stuckee" to get his/her OWN strap muddy!
5. Fire extinguisher (<$15). Some Clubs require at least the trail leader to carry a fire extinguisher; but what if I'm in the back of the pack?!? Cheap insurance, looks cool, good conversation piece. While taking some co-workers to lunch one day, one lady asked me (with a concerned look on her face), what the fire extinguisher was for!
6. First Aid kit (<$15). Also often a Club requirement for at least the trail leader. However, they are inexpensive and don't take up much room. I've just always carried one in all of our vehicles.
7. CB Radio and a high-quality antenna ($150). Some Clubs require everyone to have a CB radio, believe it or not. I carry a portable spare radio to lend out to someone who may not have one. They are good for communicating with spotters, to warn of trail hazards, and to call for help if you get stuck or separated from the rest of the group. Besides, it can get REAL boring if you can't hear and/or participate in the trail chatter. BTW, the most important part of the CB equation is a "high-quality, properly-tuned" antenna. Visit the Fire FireStik Antenna Company's web site at
http://www.firestik.com for more details.
8. Sway bar quick disconnects (<$100). Actually much cheaper if you are handy. You can make your own set for less than half the cost of the aftermarket parts. Will simply do wonders for your TJ's trail performance. Will practically double your RTI all by themselves.
9. Hi-Lift jack ($50). Some Clubs require you to have a jack, which is "capable of lifting the vehicle". Ever try to use that little bottle jack on the side of a hill, with your flat tire stuck in a rut filled with a foot of squishy mud?! Nuf said. Besides looking cool, Hi-Lifts can also be used for a variety of other tasks. I once used mine to keep a front axle hub from turning while braking loose the axle nut. In a pinch (with the appropriate accessories), it can also be used as a come-along/winch.
10. Small lift kit and slightly larger, more aggressive tires (<$1000). Okay, these are two mods, and they are quite expensive. But they go hand-in-hand. A lift by itself doesn't give you any more ground clearance under the axles. The only reason for the lift, is to accommodate larger tires. All that's required, lift-wise, is a set of 2" spring spacers (<$200). And you can add a 1" body lift for about another $80. So for less than $300, that's enough lift to accommodate 32" or even 33" tires. Speaking of tires, since the majority of Jeep owners never take their Jeeps off road, the factory equips them with "P" (passenger car) tires. They simply don't work very well on the trail. When replacing your tires, you have a choice between All Terrains (ATs) and Mud Terrains (MTs). All Terrains are far superior on wet or icy roads, and they also do well on many types of off-road terrain (except for mud, where the narrow channels quickly get clogged). On the other hand, MT's are great in all types of off-road terrain, from plowing through mud to climbing over rocks. The great majority of trail riders that I know use Mud Terrains. Your next decision is what type of wheel (rim) on which to mount your new tires. I use a set of simple white steel wagon wheels, which are much less expensive (only about $35 each) and much more forgiving than cast aluminum (which go for around $100 per rim). A steel wheel will bend, allowing you to straighten it somewhat with a hammer. A cast aluminum wheel will crack, however, leaving you stranded on the trail. And the wheel cannot be repaired; you will have to replace it. For both strength and lightness, you may want to use a "forged" (vs. "cast") aluminum rim. However, expect to pay in excess of $150 per wheel!
[addsig]
[addsig]
