Hello all. I am going to get a new lift for my tj and was wondering if there is any problems that i should be prepared for. Right now i have a 2.5 inch bb. I have new shocks and t case drop all ready installed. I am going to purchase a 2.5 inch lift with spring instead of the spacers at achieve more flex. Also i am going too install new spring isolators from Daystar. Do you guys think there will be a problem with drive train vibrations, death wobble are any thing else switching set ups. Also any ideas on a good 2.5 inch lift. Thanks:???:
Another Lift question
- Thread starter mrkltj
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SteelHeadz
Super Moderator
Do you guys think there will be a problem with drive train vibrations, death wobble are any thing else switching set ups.
I'ts inevitable for Vibrations, drivetrain noise or possibly the most feared "death wobble" to occur everytime the Pinion angle, SAI,Tires ,Coilsprings, shocks and steering stabilizer is either disturbed and or replaced. Make sure you find a Good Alignment shop that knows how to Set the Camber, Caster, Steering Center and Toe. Make sure you add an adjustable Trackbar and a Drop pitman arm with your list of lift components. Get the correct angle on your Axle pinions, this will minimize the Vibrations and drivetrain noise in the front and rear axle.
I'ts inevitable for Vibrations, drivetrain noise or possibly the most feared "death wobble" to occur everytime the Pinion angle, SAI,Tires ,Coilsprings, shocks and steering stabilizer is either disturbed and or replaced. Make sure you find a Good Alignment shop that knows how to Set the Camber, Caster, Steering Center and Toe. Make sure you add an adjustable Trackbar and a Drop pitman arm with your list of lift components. Get the correct angle on your Axle pinions, this will minimize the Vibrations and drivetrain noise in the front and rear axle.
Ok. I know that these types of questions are asked a lot and you guys probably get sick of seeing them. I have a good idea of what iam going to purchase just looking for some input on a few of the issues that i was unsure of. Any input on any specific kits that are on the market. Any info would be appreciated. SteelHeadz SAI angles is the steering axes inclination right? My steering and suspension knowledge is a tiny bit rusty. Thanks
SteelHeadz
Super Moderator
You are correct sir. sorry, i'm not much help on "the Best Lift Kits" out there. i have a friend (Surprised there huh?) that's used the Daystar Coil Spring Spacers, he loves it. no problems.
Ok. That's what i though. I looked at the Daystar kit also. I have heard a lot of good things about there products. I think I may have been making this more complicated then it is. I tend to do that from time to time. I don't need a lot of flex. The wheeling that i do is nothing to crazy so a little bigger bb should work. Plus the Daystar is a complete kit witch should take care of any unforeseen problems. Thanks man. 
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
I wouldn't waste time and money to switch from a spacer kit to a spring kit of the same height, for what is only a marginal (if any) increase in flex. If its increased tire clearance you want, get a taller spring kit or a 1" body lift.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
You will notice a change in handling as you're making the short stock control arms operate at an even steeper angle. Not to mention your caster and toe-in will change. Your wheelbase also gets shorter as the stock control arms get steeper.
I really think a 1" body lift will give you more bang for the buck, with a LOT less labor involved.
I really think a 1" body lift will give you more bang for the buck, with a LOT less labor involved.
I though about that also but i am not at all a fan of the gap that is evident between the frame and body. With a one inch body lift i don't think it would be really bad but i am gonna have to look for some good pic. Also is a one inch engine mount spacer a necessity with a one inch body lift, is the installation of it difficult? Thanks
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
The gap is really not noticeable at 1".
A 1" motor mount lift is not required with the 1" body lift, but it does improve rear driveline angles and prevent you from having to modify the fan shroud after the BL.
A 1" BL is an easy install. Loosen all 11 body mounts. Remove the body bolt below the radiator and 5 on one side. Lift that side with a floor jack and insert the body lift. Lower and loosely tighten the 5 body bolts. Repeat for the opposite side.
Body lift kits come with good instructions, but those are the basics.
A 1" motor mount lift is not required with the 1" body lift, but it does improve rear driveline angles and prevent you from having to modify the fan shroud after the BL.
A 1" BL is an easy install. Loosen all 11 body mounts. Remove the body bolt below the radiator and 5 on one side. Lift that side with a floor jack and insert the body lift. Lower and loosely tighten the 5 body bolts. Repeat for the opposite side.
Body lift kits come with good instructions, but those are the basics.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
If you don't do the MML, you have two options on fan/shroud clearance. You can notch the bottom of the shroud, or you can modify the shroud so it bolts onto the radiator 1" lower. I usually cut the bottom of the shroud.
Since you're running the 2.5L and the shroud takes up about half the engine compartment, it may be a good time to consider upgrading the mechanical fan to an electric fan. Then you don't have to worry about shroud/fan interference.
Since you're running the 2.5L and the shroud takes up about half the engine compartment, it may be a good time to consider upgrading the mechanical fan to an electric fan. Then you don't have to worry about shroud/fan interference.
I was looking at some of the different kit available the installation instruction don't look to bad. Like you mentioned some say to cut the shroud others say to drill holes in the radiator and mount it one inch lower. The electronic fan upgrade is something i going to look in to. I assume that basically u just remove the stock fan install a shorter belt and new electric fan. What type of electric fan is the norm i.e single fan, dual fan, and output. Thanks man.
cannonfodder
New member
You will have better luck if you just toss the fan and bolt the pulley back on the waterpump with shorter bolts and reinstall the same belt to circulate the water through the radiator. Install 2 small or 1 large fan whichever covers the most area on your rad and thermostatic controls. My 2 cents.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
I think the best e-fan option (and most popular) is the 2speed fan from a mid-90's Ford Tauras or similar Ford with the 3.8L. It fits the radiator well, moves a ton of air, and IMO is built better/heavier than off-the-shelf fans.DCcontrol makes a real good fan controller, I will post a link when I'm not on my phone.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Forgot to mention, when removing the stock fan you simply put the nuts back on the studs the fan was attached to. The pulley uses the same studs, and you will keep the same belt.
Sounds good man. I looked at a few web sites for prices on that fan not to bad about 100 buck new. I was wondering how i would control the fan though? That controller you mentioned, how does it regulate when the fan kicks on and off. Do i even need the controller or can i just wire the fan up to a switch and control it manually. People do this on hot rods and race car. I know my tj isent a race car but concept should work right?
xt master
New member
It is independent from everything else.I think they come with a temp sensor or it ties into the existing temp sensor.Once the temp reaches a certain degree it puts power out to turn on fan.Nice part about it is it will run,if wired correctly even after you turn the jeep off.That is where some problems come from,you run hot then turn it off,with no fan it just gets hotter,electric fan will run that extra 10 or 15 minutes to cool it down after you turn it off.
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