Another Lift question
- Thread starter mrkltj
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xt master
New member
here are some sites that say they have a 1 inch body lift
Google Image Result for http://www.quadratec.com/community/jeep_news/article_images/210/1-add1-m.jpg
http://z.about.com/d/4wheeldrive/1/0/o/r/RJClark.jpg
Google Image Result for http://lh5.ggpht.com/_b2WA8Pot6Ao/RbzP4kUK3KI/AAAAAAAAAAg/p_Q9EfmFHpw/DSC01159.JPG
Google Image Result for http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3155/2365351224_fee5b33f13.jpg
Google Image Result for http://www.quadratec.com/community/jeep_news/article_images/210/1-add1-m.jpg
http://z.about.com/d/4wheeldrive/1/0/o/r/RJClark.jpg
Google Image Result for http://lh5.ggpht.com/_b2WA8Pot6Ao/RbzP4kUK3KI/AAAAAAAAAAg/p_Q9EfmFHpw/DSC01159.JPG
Google Image Result for http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3155/2365351224_fee5b33f13.jpg
I am going to buy the Daystar. They are total replacement body mounts not just spacers that you put on top of you existing mount. Daystar says that they keep the body aligned properly and are susposto improve handling also. I would go with this type because the other design can shift and move not good. That's just my opinion. Thanks for the compliment on my rig its not a Rubicon though.
Jeeper99
New member
Oh, whoops, my bad, I was talkin about that black rubicon in the pictures link XT Master posted with the 1" body lift. Your Jeep is sweet too though! When are you planning on doing the body lift? This thread has actualy got me pondering on doing this also. I don't have a lift and am not really sure how long it will be until I get one. I'm running 31's and like the looks of the 1" BL.
Hey Mikey, with a 1" lift, can you have a flush belly pan? :?|
Jeeper99
New member
I've been reading some of the posts about the 1" body lift and was wondering. Is there any shifter problems with an automatic 99TJ? Other than trimming the fan shroud is there any other mods that would need to be done before the install? Also, what all has to be done in order to get a more flush mounted belly skid at the T-Case?
Some guys have told me when you do a body lift, you are able to get more ground clearance from the stock belly skid because you are able to raise it up But I have no idea.
Some guys have told me when you do a body lift, you are able to get more ground clearance from the stock belly skid because you are able to raise it up But I have no idea.
Most kit that i have seen come with a shift linkage relocation bracet. The fan shroud is the only thing that i know of that needs to be modified. Could be wrong though. Daystar said that you dont have to mess with the filler neck or anything eles. There kit comes with everything you need thay say. As for the belly pan i dont know man.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
It's possibly to go with a flatter belly skid (like Teraflex) after the 1" body lift, but it's best to do a 1" motor mount lift at the same time. This way your drivetrain remains level and you don't have to modify the fan shroud.
You may need to modify the transfer case shifter, there's a 1" plate that attaches to the tub side of the linkage to space the pivot point down after a body lift. Get Teraflex's transfer case shifter bracket and you can do away with the body mounted pivot point of the linkage.
This is a great and informative thread. I always have my notebook out and pencil sharp when bounty and steelheadz are posting. Thank you guys.
Regarding the origional question: "Do you guys think there will be a problem with drive train vibrations, death wobble are any thing else switching set ups?"
I have a 4" with T case lowering brackets on my rubicon and have no driveline vibration. I still have very slight wheel shimmy between 55-60mph but it quickly goes away with acceleration. After the T case drop, my dang shifter wouldn't go into 6th or reverse because it bumped on the rubber floor boot and I had to cut the plastic to make room. The extra stress on the motor mounts from the change in angle of the engine/transmission/t case has now caused a brief squeek everytime I either accelerate or let off the accelerator. i've considered putting the t case back up to stock position and getting a custom drive shaft with proximal CV end, but then the driveshaft/differential angle is off. If I get adjustable upper control arms it fixes that problem but now instead of an $800 lift I'm up to $1300! Does it ever end? Any quick fixes for that squeek that embarrases me every time I pick up a date?
Regarding the origional question: "Do you guys think there will be a problem with drive train vibrations, death wobble are any thing else switching set ups?"
I have a 4" with T case lowering brackets on my rubicon and have no driveline vibration. I still have very slight wheel shimmy between 55-60mph but it quickly goes away with acceleration. After the T case drop, my dang shifter wouldn't go into 6th or reverse because it bumped on the rubber floor boot and I had to cut the plastic to make room. The extra stress on the motor mounts from the change in angle of the engine/transmission/t case has now caused a brief squeek everytime I either accelerate or let off the accelerator. i've considered putting the t case back up to stock position and getting a custom drive shaft with proximal CV end, but then the driveshaft/differential angle is off. If I get adjustable upper control arms it fixes that problem but now instead of an $800 lift I'm up to $1300! Does it ever end? Any quick fixes for that squeek that embarrases me every time I pick up a date?
Jeeper99
New member
I too, would have to agree about ole Bounty Hunter and SteelHeadz! They help pelple like me out a ton when I'm trying to learn as much as I can for my own benefit as well as future Jeepers.
What about the 2" budget boost deal. Do they work out pretty well just to add a little more pep back to the factory springs? I saw a Rubicon express 2" lift with the shocks and rear bump stops for $199 Any likes or dislikes with a BB?
I've got a list a mile long on things I am wanting to do when money allows, so I have a tight budget.
What about the 2" budget boost deal. Do they work out pretty well just to add a little more pep back to the factory springs? I saw a Rubicon express 2" lift with the shocks and rear bump stops for $199 Any likes or dislikes with a BB?
I've got a list a mile long on things I am wanting to do when money allows, so I have a tight budget.
I have a 2.5 inch bb and i think that it is a good chose if you are on a budget. The pros are that you retain a factory type ride and can get a good amount of usable lift pretty cheap. Most of the time they don't require very much additional modes witch keep the price down also. I am pretty sure that all you should need with a two inch is new shocks.
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
jonsolbe, loosen your transmission mount bolts slightly and take the jeep for a slow speed spin around the block. Retighten and see if that doesn't help with your squeek.
As for the 2" BB, it's a great option for a budget. One additional item that may be needed is the cam bolts for the axle end of the front lower control arms. Early TJ's came with them, later TJ's did not. This allows for precise caster adjustment after a lift. I run them all the way out for a 2" BB, pushing the bottom of the front axle as far forward as possible. This corrects the caster and pinion angle, removing vibrations after the BB install.
Thanks for the kind words, I just enjoy passing along all the seemingly worthless gee-whiz information that has crept in over the years.
As for the 2" BB, it's a great option for a budget. One additional item that may be needed is the cam bolts for the axle end of the front lower control arms. Early TJ's came with them, later TJ's did not. This allows for precise caster adjustment after a lift. I run them all the way out for a 2" BB, pushing the bottom of the front axle as far forward as possible. This corrects the caster and pinion angle, removing vibrations after the BB install.
Thanks for the kind words, I just enjoy passing along all the seemingly worthless gee-whiz information that has crept in over the years.
Jeeper99
New member
Thanks a Ton Bounty! Where could one find the cam bolts and what is a good 2" BB to look for? Once again, this is all new to me, so that's why I have so many questions. :roll:
Jeeper99
New member
I think I might be able to answer this one. :shock:
As far as the body lift. You don't have to raise the motor with a 1" Body lift. Just cut the fan shroud to clear the bottom of the fan. I was refering to having a flat belly skid, which envolves a body lift, motor mount lift and therefore would raise the T-case up, allowing for a smoother flatter belly skid. Basically like Bounty told me, it keeps it all in line...
See guys, I knew asking all these questions would allow me to try to help others sooner or later.
:lol::lol:
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
you can use factory length shocks with a budget boost, but don't be surprised if they limit droop when flexing the suspension.
I have no preference on a BB, most of the spacers are the same and it comes down to shock preference. Some BB are 1.5" or 1.75" and others are a true 2".
You can get the cam bolts at the dealership, not too expensive. Check to see if you have them or the non-adjustable bolts.
I have no preference on a BB, most of the spacers are the same and it comes down to shock preference. Some BB are 1.5" or 1.75" and others are a true 2".
You can get the cam bolts at the dealership, not too expensive. Check to see if you have them or the non-adjustable bolts.
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