Axel "wrap"

Y

yj89

New member
I have an 89 wrangler with a 258 mated to a 727 auto transmission and a NP 207 T-case. I am getting alot of "wrap" on my starts, the driveshaft is actually pitching upward at an angle causing alot of vibration and then it smooths out. I am wodering if a Yoke Slip Ellimantor with fix the problem and do they make one for my set up? I have also been told to try a set of ladder bars and that would stop my problem. I have a 4" suspention lift on it with 35" tire on 15 X 12 rims and yes I still have the original Dana 35. I know that is not a goot set up, but I don't off road too hard or much and would rather not replace it until it breaks. Then I plan to swap out to an 8.8 with a locker and disk brakes and 4:10 or 4:88 gears.

Thanks for any help guys,
Danny
 

kinda seems as though your springs may be weak for the torque required to turn the tires. A ladder bar will benefit you. A slip yoke eliminator will not resolve the problem of axle wrap
 
www.jcw.com has some inexpensive traction bars that I used on my '88 YJ, they bolt to the spring plate on the axle end and have a bracket that drops off the frame spring hanger in front of the axle.

I'd bet something else is causing your vibrations, unless your leaf springs are so worn out or have broken leaves that they allow a lot of wrap.

Take a close look at your driveline angles, and make sure the pinion is parallel to the transfer case output.

I ran my '88 YJ with a built 350 on 33" tires and didn't have any trouble with the D35. I believe the non c-clip D35 like you have and I had are stronger than c-clip models.
 

RE: 35s...fora day

I saw some traction bars that had quick disconnects in one of my magazines. They were pretty cheap too. If I can find them I'll post the company name. I think it was in JP...
 
Are you running the tapered shims on the rear springs? If so, take them off or run smaller ones. I had springwrap issues in my YJ. Not really bad enough to force me to run a traction bar, but bad enough to play hell on the slipyoke. The pinion was pointed so far up that as soon as it started rotating, it started pulling out the slipyoke. I ditched the wedges after having a problem spitting them out, and it fixed the slipyoke problem too. It allowed the rearend to rotate more before it went past centerline and started pulling on the driveshaft. That was with WOT launches though.....you must be running some soft springs.
 

Re: join date

That doesn't really sound like enough lift to present that kind of problem. Do like Junkpile said with the shims, but also verify that all of your u-bolts are tight and that the spring center pins are seated.
 
Re: RE: Plastic or metal rocker panel guards for TJ?

http://www.quadratec.com/cgi-bin/sg...2&UREQC=3&UREQD=4&FNM=00&UID=2005031920122866

image-missing.png
 

RE: HUMMER rolls

TC, those bars are okay for a mild application, but I wouldn't go with a single axle mounting point on a Jeep with a real springwrap problem. Those bars seem to basically turn the rear suspension into a modified four link with the front section of the leaf spring acting as the lower arms. When being hit with high torque, the spring can still deform. It would seem to me that they would unload the rear suspension at intial launch, cause the rear to drop and the pinion to go straight up.

I think a bar with two rigid axle mounting points would control things better......if you need better. Those bars you linked to would crutch excessively soft springs in normal driving conditions.

I'm still trying to learn about rear suspension dynamics. If anyone has any other input on the matter of traction bars and such. PLEASE post. It was clear to me the few times I have driven the CJ7 that I will be battling this one for awhile. Completely changing lanes everytime I hit second gear isn't going to be too good if I decide to show off a little on the road. Right now it hits the springs so hard it almost completely stuffs the rear tires on launch. I'm actually kind of scared of it :oops: and want to straighten it out.
 
Great Vid.. its a flying ...?? Lawn..?? what?

i found out about a cheap trick to cut down on axle wrap, wont eliminate it but it helps. buy 4 feet of 1/4 cable, 4 cable clamps and two eye thimbles. assemble the cable with a loop in each end, and tighten it between the u bolt (im soa so this works) and the frame hanger bolt, pull it tight and it acts to resist the pinion from rotating up. theres some pics on pirate somewhere, searh "cheap axle wrap idea"
 
driveline vibes

Junkpile, I just thought the quick disconnects/ telescopic things were a good idea. If the product isn't a good design because of the mounts (I honestly wouldn't know) then maybe it could be modified or give an idea to someone making their own. I imagine those traction bars don't do much for articulation in the rocks.
 

RE: Gen Chat...please delete.

i was just inspired to go get metal to work on such a project

i'll get pics when i'm done
 
Re: I can't figure this one out.........

I just came back... i have about 10 feet of bar... i'll be working on it as soon as i can find a place to call my workshop
 
A BamBar.....that's a new term for me.

It takes up more room over the axle when you invert the setup like that. Not only do you need room for the vertical links, but you also need overhead clearance for the shackle to move. With the links running in a horizontal fashion from front to back and an inverted shackle at the chassis end, you have basically the same thing but it's more effective and more low-profile. I can see the advantages though on the right rig, and it would have more ground clearance with a big lift.
 
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