baCk YarD Snorkle PiCs

I love the creativity, but I think you are asking for trouble here. I am pretty sure that dryer vent is not meant to be water tight, and with that long length of tubing and several bends, I think you are going to be reducing max air flow. (Your engine is going to be pulling the same vacuum, and now there is greater resistance to pulling the air in, thus less air gets there.) The thought about the A/C and heat being sucked out was a good one too, I hadn't considered that. Engines move ALOT of air. Maybe what you want to do is have it designed so that in the rare instances you are going to cross through deep water, you can "turn it on." In other words, have a stock type air box under the hood that has this tube going into it and a door you can open and close. For normal driving, open up the door, let the air under the hood in. For deep water, pull over, close the door, and now it pulls the air from your cab.
 

Maybe what you want to do is have it designed so that in the rare instances you are going to cross through deep water, you can "turn it on." In other words, have a stock type air box under the hood that has this tube going into it and a door you can open and close. For normal driving, open up the door, let the air under the hood in. For deep water, pull over, close the door, and now it pulls the air from your cab.

Yeah, kinda like what the guy that doesn't like me talking about him said in that other thread, the ability to cap off the snorkel and run the regular airbox, or cap off the airbox and run the snorkel. I just can't help but think that if you run on any gravel roads, you're bound to get a rock thrown up into that tube that will puncture it. If you do, and suck a lot of water into the intake, I'm thinking you might be out more than the cost of the dryer vent, duct tape, and RTV sealant. Could cost you a motor.:???: For that matter, even if you don't suck water, you could be sucking a lot of dust into the engine which will destroy it over a fairly short amount of time, too.
 
Not to be too critical...but also keep in mind door seals and everything are meant to be air tight. While Jeep doors don't usually seal perfectly (or even close to it), there is still a pressure difference from your outside air. That's why a car door is harder to shut when all the windows are closed...compared to if just one's down a little bit. That will greatly decrease the amount of air that your motor will be able to pull in, compared to if your air intake is either outside or in the engine bay.

If it were me in your situation, I'd either make my own snorkle out of plastic tube...and have it outside. Or go back to the original air box and simply make some sort of shield so water will not splash up into it as much. A little water on the filter won't hurt the engine anyways.
 

If it were me then I would stay out of the deep water. Sure its fun at first...at least until you have to start replacing wheel bearings, differentials, transfer case bearings, transmissions, ujoints...all the stuff you don't think that water and silt are getting to. Alot of the seals on your vehicle are not double lip seals. In other words, they keep grease and oil in, but don't keep water out. The only double lip seals I can think of on most vehicles are the main seals on the engine and the main seal on the rear of the transmission. My D60 front has a double lip seal at the differential, but not at the spindle bearings. My rear has singles all the way around and will take on water like the Titanic. That's why I choose to stay out of the mud and water if it's over hub deep.
But...whatever floats your boat.
 
I have a Ford Ranger 4X4 pickup with stock air. The Mighty YJ has an K&N FIPK Air system with a cold air box.

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The K&N FIPK air system...

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I try not to go through water any deeper than this...

On Wearyman off of Shrine Pass, we took both the Ford Ranger 4X4 pickup and the Mighty YJ. As the Ranger went through the 3rd water crossing, water was sucked into the manifold. The engine died. We were able to get it running and drove on through. The Mighty YJ went through just fine.

I also remember taking the Kane Creek Trail one year and approaching the creek at one point. We drove in slowly and were wondering what to do as the water slowly creeped up the cab (and then in). I was afraid the cold air box was going to get wet when it found the bottom and we only had to deal with the water coming in through the floor boards.

But just a wonderment, why not put the hose/snorkel setup outside the cab?
 
well i thought on it all night and had planned to rip it out and go back to stock box .. but i still had to make a journy for my employment drug test of about hours drive 2 and from ... after that its a must to toss the setup it robs topend BAD..... despite the clever homemade ways to run one outside i'm going to pass if i ever run into the prob of water i'll just save for an ARB :D
 
Your gonna loose alot of power cause the pipes so long, should of made a short piped snorkle. The longer the less air you get and the less air for the gas to burn.
 
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here is my snorkle i made from a sonoma k&n air filter system

I don't see an airflow problem with that. It looks fine to me in that area. What I wonder is how you plan to keep water out of the cone filter, I mean if you drive it in the rain like that you'll be sucking in rain water. Same would be the case if you were splashing through puddles, a deep hole, or a creek or something. Kind of defeats the purpose. I have seen at least three setups like that now and have yet to see a solution to that.
 

Yep, all your gonna do is suck up the rain water and so forth, and its just going to ruin the filter. I bet its loud as hell as well. My friend and I were talking about this last night and he said he saw someone with their filter box and filter sitting right up aginst the hood and it hissed really loudly and sucked in lots of water.
 
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