Best SYE kit?

C

Craig

New member
I need to buy a SYE kit before I do my spring over lift this summer. I've heard of two different kinds. One kind where you have to hack something off the transfercase and replace it with something else. Another kind that just installs right in. I've been told that the ones that just install right in are best. I don't know much about SYE kits, just what their function is. Just wondering what companies make the best SYE kits out there?

Also wondering if I can install the SYE kit with my stock driveshaft until I do the spring over lift, if not I'll just leave it out till the lift is done. Once I do the lift, I'll be putting in a CV driveshaft.
 

96 and older XJ Cherokee/MJ Commanche Blackouts

You can not use the SYE with the stock driveshaft, you'll have to install a double-cardan style driveshaft with the slip-splines in the middle of the shaft, the same time the SYE is done.

The hack & tap SYE by Rubicon Express is not a bad kit, only $80 for '96+ jeeps and about $180 for '95 and older. They're not known to break or have any issues, but some people feel more piece of mind replacing the entire transfer case mainshaft with a shorter heavier unit.

Keep in mind that the replacement shaft does not 'installs right in', it takes dissassembly of the transfer case and some mechanical expertise. The hack and tap requires measuring the tailshaft, cutting it off, drilling and tapping the end. That's it.

I'll be doing the hack & tap one of these days, the stock shaft is plenty strong and the H&T is reliable. Why spend the extra money where it's not needed.
 
I agree, go with the cheaper one. The other is better, but like Bounty_Hunter said, the factory shaft is pretty strong.
 

Ok, one other thing I forgot to ask that I'm not too sure of. As far as I've been told, if I install the SYE kit and CV driveshaft, I can move my skidplate back up into the origional position right?...I have the skidplate lowered right now because of my lift. If I move the skidplate back up won't the driveshaft be at too much of an angle causing vibrations or do the CV joints eliminate these vibrations?
 
yes... that is one reason for moving to the sye, so you can keep the drivetrain back up where it should be
 
What would be a good value as far as the cv type driveshaft? I'm just trying to figure out what the least amount I could spend on this mod without buying any junk. I'd like to get rid of the xfer case drop kit for both looks and clearance. Is there any other major benefit of doing this if I'm not having a vibration problem?
 

I plan on using a front driveshaft from an XJ or TJ as they have the double cardan joint, just need to have it shortened. This is behind a 2.5L so I'm not sure I'd trust it behind a 4.0L as it wasn't designed for 100% of the torque load.
 
Does this mean I'm gonna have to get a new front driveshaft as well if I'm gonna do a spring over lift? I was told that my front driveshaft would be fine with the spring over. If I have to do my front driveshaft you think it'd be good to change it to cv joints as well or is the drive angle not enough to warrant that?
 
horn button?

Your front driveshaft should be fine but after you do the soa you will see that the front shaft is extended a couple inches. You could take it to a driveshaft shop and have them lengthen it. I had mine lengthened the same time they were regearing the front... they had to take it out anyway.
 

I have the advanced adapter unit and Tom woods shaft and The extra cash I spent was worth it. everything is warrantied, some what simple bolt in, didn't even pull the T-case out. had it done in less than a day.
 
before ordering online... check local shops..... i have a friend who bought a driveshaft from a shop around here for $80, lifetime warranty... the yoke was not part of the driveshaft purchase, he snapped the yoke, and they still replaced it free... local shops can be heros
 
anyone have a god writeup of the hack and tap? and you can use the front driveshaft out of an xj or tj as a rear drive shaft?
 
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