Alright, I'm tired of my defrost not working worth a crap and my feets freezin' in the winter, so I'm gonna swap in either a YJ fan or a 73 blazer fan. Any opinions on which is better, and what do these things cost at the local autooreillynapazone? This just involves taking out the old motor and grinding the hole out a little bigger and then slapping the new motor in right? What about wiring? That cause any problems? Thanks in advance for any suggestions/advice.
Blazer vs YJ fan motor for my CJ7
- Thread starter wm69
- Start date
BakedAlaskan
New member
I am not sure how the wires plug in but I bet it is spot on. Seeing how Jeep borrowed so much from GM over the years. I would go with the GM unit. It's about 21-25 bucks and blows like crazy. NAPA should be better then an Autozone airfreshener store.
Parts house, small consumer show room but large behind the counter section GOOOOOOOD!!!
Parts house, Large consumer section and small behind the counter section,..................lame.
Lame airfreshener, customized you car at wallmart crap fest.
I do dump my old oil there though. :twisted:
Parts house, small consumer show room but large behind the counter section GOOOOOOOD!!!
Parts house, Large consumer section and small behind the counter section,..................lame.
Lame airfreshener, customized you car at wallmart crap fest.
I do dump my old oil there though. :twisted:
This guy is showning "heater box assembly for sale".
http://www.jeepyj.net/forum/showthread.php?t=851
http://www.jeepyj.net/forum/showthread.php?t=851
The blazer motor swap is easy as hell and requires no wiring mods.
The only thing is that it is a MESSY mod, cause you have to disconnect the coolant tubes and drain a fair chunk of coolant. Hose clamps help, but do not contain the whole mess.
Next problem is all the filth on the original heater box housing.... Get some of that "orange clean" and a scrub-brush and start going to town on it cause its nasty.
Grinding the hole can be a pain, i ended up just using some tin snips and a pair of vice grips doing the old "cut a tab" then break off the tab with the vice grips method.
The motor is a perfect fit for the housing, and only one wire connects to it under the battery. It pushes ALOT of air. The only downside is that it also eats alot more power than the stock blower, so if you are having battery or alternator weakness problems, they are going to be even worse when runnng the heater.
The only thing is that it is a MESSY mod, cause you have to disconnect the coolant tubes and drain a fair chunk of coolant. Hose clamps help, but do not contain the whole mess.
Next problem is all the filth on the original heater box housing.... Get some of that "orange clean" and a scrub-brush and start going to town on it cause its nasty.
Grinding the hole can be a pain, i ended up just using some tin snips and a pair of vice grips doing the old "cut a tab" then break off the tab with the vice grips method.
The motor is a perfect fit for the housing, and only one wire connects to it under the battery. It pushes ALOT of air. The only downside is that it also eats alot more power than the stock blower, so if you are having battery or alternator weakness problems, they are going to be even worse when runnng the heater.
firemanharry
New member
I would suggest simply flushing out your heater core really well before ripping everything apart. If this cures your heating problem then you aren't out any money. Try the cheap (free) fix first.......that's my motto. 8)
Tug-n-pull
New member
Broken Transmission
If you know an electrian that works in comercial wireing field they use a tool called a hydrulic Knock out set that will make the hole the size you desire in about oh 5 mins max. Simple as can be just a speciality tool not to many folks have. PASmokeater did mine. tug
If you know an electrian that works in comercial wireing field they use a tool called a hydrulic Knock out set that will make the hole the size you desire in about oh 5 mins max. Simple as can be just a speciality tool not to many folks have. PASmokeater did mine. tug
