Break recommendations/help

Thank you 54cj3b ;-)

And buckshot 500- it wasnt just one side it was both sides. I had my mechanic friend use a drum micrometer on them and he said they would have just barely enough thickness after turning. So I decided just to replace them now while its nice outside. I do a lot of driving to the mountains and I just feel better having new brakes. :shock:

Thats because your not supposed to turn the rotors. they are a composite rotor and should be used then replaced, not turned. you can usually get about 80K miles out of a set assuming you do not score them or warp them.

#1 cause of warping rotors is, believe it or not, over tightening your lug nuts and not using a torque wrench. I used to work at a brake shop and 99% of the time a customer would come in and complain of pulsating brake peddal, we would check the torque on the lugs and some would be around 100, some would be as high as 150 and some as low as 50. Lug nuts should be torqued to between 100-110 ft/lbs.

Second cause is over heating the rotor.


Glad you got your stuff figured out... and welcome
 
Thanks Johnny,

I heard this info about turning/warping and the lug nuts as well along the way. I appreciate your reply thanks. I am glad I just went with replacing them, I can rest easier over it.
 

X2; if the jeep does not run, it's not as big a problem as if the jeep dont stop!
 
The previous owner of my TJ waited too long to replace the pads, and ran it down to metal on metal. After the rotors were torn up he replaced the pads (without replacing the rotor).

I ended up replacing rotor and pad - using ceramic pads. I ended up liking the ceramics alot because I have chrome rims - ceramics don't have the problem with brake dust that metallic ones do.
 
Back
Top