cj-5 . what new automatic trans is best?
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HiHood
New member
TH350 would be my guess or 700R4
The 5's, like my 3B have a length issue with AT's and driveshaft shortness issues. That's why I leaped for the F134 so I could use the stock transmission. The buick I was going to use had a th350 behind it and although they said it could be done and indeed HAS been done, I don't like super shorty driveshafts.
The 5's, like my 3B have a length issue with AT's and driveshaft shortness issues. That's why I leaped for the F134 so I could use the stock transmission. The buick I was going to use had a th350 behind it and although they said it could be done and indeed HAS been done, I don't like super shorty driveshafts.
Sine Deviance
New member
I second this, go with a 700R4 variant. Relatively cheap, very plentiful, and relatively easy to find. They also have overdrive so you'll save some gas. From what I hear they are also easy to rebuild (compared to other automatics, of course; no automatic transmission is easy to rebuild.) Also note that in 1990 the 700R4 was renamed to the 4L60, they are essentially the same. There is also the 4L60-E, introduced in 1992 iirc. This is the electronically-driven version, so you'll probably want to avoid this model. However, if you need something REALLY strong, go with the 4L65-E. This is an upgraded version of the 4L60-E with stronger planetary gears and a stronger output shaft. It was introduced in 2001 to accommodate the extra power (300+ hp) from the Vortec 6.0L. The 4L65-E is also electronically-driven, and you will probably need the entire donor ECM and harness with some wiring hacks to make this one work.
Also, avoid any modern automatics made by Dodge. They fall apart after 30,000 miles from being overly complex. I had a '98 Grand Cherokee with the 318 V8 and the automatic, it died at 90,000 miles and had already been rebuilt twice before I even bought the Jeep, so I just sold the truck to avoid the hassle. Also my roommate has a '96 Dodge Ram with the same engine and trans, he's pushing 250,000 miles and has already done five transmission rebuilds and two replacements. Besides that, I've never heard anything good about them. I can't comment on the newest of their transmissions (i.e. the past five years) but I will say that the 90's/early 00's stuff is crap.
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Rubiconrich
New member
A CJ5 is short I'd go with a T18 4 speed.
Saddle Tramp
New member
I have to agree a CJ5 is not suitable for an auto, the rear drive line will be way too short. The only exception that may work is if you were to swap in a Chevy V6 in lieu of the I6 which would allow you to move the motor & trans forward but even then that might not be enough, I’d need to add it all up to be sure. If an auto is something you just can’t live without, sell the 5 and trade up to a 7, and then you will have enough room for an auto.
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gearheadmb
New member
I think quadratrac was only available in cj7s. I just swapped a quadratrac driveline from a 79 cherokee into my 90 yj. It uses a gm Turbo 400 with an AMC bellhousing bolt pattern. I kept my 258 in its stock location and the rear driveshaft is 18" long @ center of travel. Since a cj5 is 10" shorter than my yj (at least) that would give you a driveshaft length of 8" or less. If length isn't an issue the turbo 400 is one of the best auto trans a person can get. They are basically bulletproof. The qtrac tcase has a bit of a bad reputation but that is mostly due to a lack of maintenance, but if it gives me too many problems an NP205 will go on the back of the 400. As far as a big bucks driveshaft goes I used a cj drive shaft and had it shortened for $40.
gearheadmb
New member
Pinion angle isnt bad at all because the qtrac tcase has the rear output offset to the right and they also drop it down about 4".
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