CJ7 won't start after 6 months of not using it

jcgarbez

New member
Hi. This is my first post on this forum. By a matter of fact, it is the very first time I have to look for help with my 1982 CJ7 258 6 cylinders engine. So far this car has been so loyal to me....the thing is there is no way I can start it. So far, this car has always been starting without problem . But, I have not started it for the past six months, and now I find out something happened for not using it for so long. I know, a car is made for using it, not leaving it standing by at the garage....now I am paying the consequences.

The starting motor is running fine. I first thought it was the battery that was tired, so I bought a new battery. No starting... I check the ignition system, and I do have sparks. I cleaned the spark plugs. I checked the distributor and found it has a nasty sticky durty stuff in it, near the pickup coil, so I replace the pickup coil assembly. Still no starting. Then I remember that when I last started the engine, I was very low on gas, so I thought maybe some dirty particles went into the fuel system. So I moved to the carburetor, disassembled it fully, cleaned it, rebuilt it using a carburetor kit to replace the small stuff that can be easily replaced. To discard a dirty gas tank, I decided to use a small plastic outboard motor tank connected at the gas pump inlet ...Still no starting. I then thought that maybe the starter motor was a little bit tired to move the motor fast enough, so I disassembled it, find out it has already been repaired, had a bad wiring connection, corrected the problem, cleaned everything, reassembled..... still no starting.
I don’t have to say that at that point this is starting to annoy me.
A friend of mine who has quite a good experience in mechanic checked the problem with me and, placing his hand on top of the carburetor when trying to start the engine, he immediately points me out that the vacuum was very poor. He told me that the problem might be that the hydraulic valve tappets have lost pressure and needed to be “recharged”, using a electric drill to rotate the oil pump ( after removing the distributor ). I have done it, removing the cylinder head cover to check that oil was coming out of the push rods, and it does. I replaced the distributor, check the timing ( rotor facing spark plug #1 when timing index on damper face TDC on timing scale ), and still the engine refuses to start. So I thought it was time to do a cylinder compression pressure test. I knew the engine was worn and needed to be rebuilt, but I was quite surprised by the numbers I got : 60 psi for all but one cylinders, and 45 psi for the #5 cylinder. This is really low. So my questions are :
#1 : does the very low compression in the cylinders can explain that the engine refuses to start.
#2 : what can have caused this collapse in the compression values, related to a long period of not starting the engine ( before this period, the engine was starting just fine ! ) ?
#3 : any idea of what is happening, what should I check next ?

Any help, comment, suggestion is welcome !

Thanks to all.

Jean-Christophe
San Antonio, Venezuela
1982 CJ7 258 engine
 

3 basic ingredients for "firing" of an internal combustion engine.....spark, fuel, oxygen (air). Shouldn't matter if it's been sitting as long as you've got those three (although the "firing" might not sound too pretty1:shades:) The compression values do sound low, but it still should fire - though it probably won't run worth a darn. Wish I could help more.
 
With the ethanol in the gas nowadays there is a chance that the fuel filter is gummed up after sitting for so long. Sorry I can't be of more help.
 
I can clearly see the fuel flowing through the acceleration circuit when I accelerate, so I think the fuel filter is fine ( also we don't have much ethanol in the gas here in Venezuela ). So I do have fuel, spark and air, why don't I have firing ?
 

How much voltage is your coil throwing? Sorry, didn't realize you were in Venezuela.
 
To make sure I have maximum voltage at the coil when starting, I am using an extra cable directly from the battery to the coil. Is this answering your question ?
Colin, regarding the distributor, I have been cleaning it very thoroughly, and as I said before I have been replacing the pickup coil who looked suspicious.
 

Have you tried spraying gasoline into the carburetor while the engine is turning over? If the spark plugs are firing, then your engine should start when priming it this way.

When you installed the distributor with the timing mark at TDC for the #1 cylinder, did you make sure that the piston was on the compression stroke? It is possible that you may have the distributor in 180 degrees off. But that still doesn't explain why your engine would not start to begin with. It is possible that the timing chain jumped.

I had an old chevy and one day I shut the engine off and the next day it would not start. Turned out that the timing chain jumped time when I shut the engine off the day before.
 
Hi Chris. Yes I have been putting gasoline into the carb while the engine is turning over, but not spraying it. I use to do it when I have not been starting the motor for a while and it has always worked but not this time. Anyway it sounds a good idea to spray it in state of pouring it. I will try this and get back to you with the results.
Regarding the timing process, yes I make sure the piston was on the compression stroke ( I had a compression tester connected to the #1 cylinder. }
Regarding the timing chain, when you said it jumped, do you mean it would have just moved a bit and in this case the timing mark can no longer be used to get the correct timing ? Is there something to do to check it or do I have to get down to the timing chain itself, removing the timing case cover ?
 
You'll have to remove the timing chain cover and visually check the chain marks. With the timing chain "jumping", that means that the chain has lifted off the gear teeth and then re-set on the gear teeth in a different location. The chain will often re-set itself a few gear teeth away from the proper setting, thus contributing to a poorly performing engine. Hopefully that's the true problem with your engine. Either way, you've essentially got a re-tuned engine!
 

If you are positive that the #1 piston was on a compression stroke when you lined up the timing marks and the rotor in the distibutor ended up pointing at the #1 tower on the distributor cap, I don't have a clue what could be wrong. If all of this is correct, it should start.

If you remove the timing cover, there should be two dots, one on each gear, that should line up when the #1 piston is TDC. On the top gear the dot will be at the 6 o'clock position and on the bottom gear, the dot will be at the 12 o'clock position.
 
Well, it looks I will have to check the timing chain.
I have tried this morning to spray gasoline on top of the carb, without result.
Is there any chance that the Electronic Ignition Module could be dammaged, though I can clearly see sparks at the distributor cables ?
 
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ok, so when you remove a spark plug and reconnect it to the spark plug wire and hold the spark plug against the engine while someone tries to start the engine the spark plug sparks? Right?

If it sparks, I can not imagine that it would be the ignition module. But you never know. Anything is possible.
 

3 basic ingredients for "firing" of an internal combustion engine.....spark, fuel, oxygen (air).

Oops, as has been stated earlier, there's actually 4...........TIMING!!!! Someone mentioned earlier their timing chain jumping after they last shut it off. That's the only reason I can logically surmise that your engine won't fire. If you're gettin' fire at the plugs and fuel (manually or otherwise), then something else is out of whack. It's not rocket science.
 
Regarding the sparking test, I am not actually removing a spark plug. I remove the spark plug cable, place a screwdriver between the spark plug cable and the engine and yes I can clearly see a spark.
Regarding timing, I believe it makes sense that this is probably the origine of the problem. Furthermore, if the timing is incorrect between the camshaft and the crankshaft because the timing chain has moved, it would also explain the poor compression numbers.
 
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