copper question

jps4jeep

Super Moderator
I have a question that will probably be followed by a number of other questions so I am looking for some feedback.

I am almost ready to do the bar top on my bar that I built in my basement, I decided a long time ago that I wanted to do the bar top with copper. I have a real good price on 18 ga copper sheathing that is 24" wide at $36 a yard. I will need a couple yards.

SO.... my bar goes about 6 feet and then turns 35* and then continues for another 6 feet, I am going to have to lead or solder the seams similar to a copper shower pan, who has done it? I can get the leading iron, I have one left from when I leaded the fender seams in my hot rod, but what do I use for medium? How much over lap should I have?

I don't care if there is a little showing in the joint, I am thinking it will add a nice craftsman look.

also, if someone had done this, did you put a protectant on the copper or just left it? I kinda want it to patina, I really like the look, I might patina the endge on purpose, but I don't want my investment to get all crappy.

Thanks
 

I've never done anything as creative as what you're talking about, but I use to be a plumber's gopher for a couple of summers - when we sweated pipes together we just sanded the pipes, rubbed flux on them and used standard solder to join them. I imagine that the same would work for your project. I don't know if it would have the look you're after though.

Sounds like you need to post up some photos of your project.
 
Ya, I have sweet more than my share of pipes, but I was thinking more specifically the copper shower pans. they use blocks of what I assume is lead or some type of tinning medium. If it is the same as solder for copper pipe, then I will go that route. But I do not want any jagged edge. I have been thinking though, I might just "crimp" the two together.

Basically I I will just put a small bend in the ends of where the copper meet each other and then smash them together with a hammer. very similar to a pitsburge crimp on duct work. I got some copper roofing nails that I will strategically use to sort of secure the copper to the plywood. I might try to use liquid nails or something..

Any suggestions?
 
I would say crimp it and glue it.You would not want to ruin the nice copper with nails.I know a person who has a copper wall and they had it crimped..looked nice.As far as the finish I would put something on it,otherwise it just going to turn green.Maybe let sit awhile then clear it so you can keep the look.
 

I've always used Phos-copper for a filler. You don't need flux or anything else to go on there with it either. It's nice because it has the copper color and will patina the same as your copper sheets. As for the gap, just butt them up next to each other and you shouldn't have any problems.
 
Jewelry, sculptor:) person solder smaller things, but have had to do larger projects.




thought this would help

I know you want a solder that has some silver in it about 4% lead solder is too soft and the joint will break. A plumbing supply place that only sells plumbing supplies should have many solders to choose from and you can ask them for a solder that is strong and will fill a large gap or seam.
 
Also you are paying too much for your copper try to find a place that sales the cooper in a 4'x8' sheet much cheaper.:)
 

I would use silver solder before putting lead anywhere near food or drink.

You need a hotter turbo torch for the propane though. Plus side is they work better on plumbing joints too.

I just used my turbo torch last night to heat up a sharpened hunk of 3/8" steel tube to sipe my back tires.

Like this;
Tire siping 101 - North Carolina 4x4 Forum
 
thanks guys, all good info.

Bar construction is currently at a halt, last weekend was a wedding, next weekend is a wedding, and this weekend is what we call the Fall Crawl, kinda the premier wheeling event in New England. Last year I got to meet Tom Woods and the Dude that owns Clayton (plus got to watch his insane juggy in action)
 
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