Darn Bearing Carrier!!!

[geronimo_e]

:x , I just started to install new gears on the front of my YJ, for witch I have to remove the hole hub assembly to get the axels out but the bearing carrier just wont come out, Is there a special tool for this?, Is it not sopoused to be stuck?? and worst of all I have no agle to hit it with my hammer!!.... :twisted: ... Any experince to be passed on will be very apreciated, Thankyou.....

 

[Snitty]

it looks like i might have some REALLY bad news for you my friend... it looks as though you have pulled your hub in half. That part that you cannot get off happens to be the rear half of your hub. I am led to assume that you used a puller to remove that, which is exactly how I removed my first hub successfully, and then destroyed my second one. They are machined to be one piece, sold as one piece, work as one piece, and are not intended to be pulled apart. I am not sure if they are able to be reassembled, and if so, I am not sure if I would trust one if it was...

To pull the rest of the hub off, which is the way that you should always remove your hub:
Back the 3 bolts (which you have removed, and should replace for these steps) out so the head is about 1/4 inch out. With a loose fitting socket, or a centerpunch, knock the bolts back inward to knock the hub out of its seat. as the head meets the surface, back the bolts out another 1/16 to 1/8 inch... when you have it far enough out, a wedge type tool may be beneficial to you in pulling the hub from its pressed seat.. once it is knocked loose, remove the bolts, and you will be on your way..

here is what MAY be the worst part of the news... When I pulled mine apart, I though "no big deal, its just a bearing with a flange on it, i'll go buy a new one"... well... when I got to autozone, and heard that they are $130, I then rushed my buns to the garage and got the one from my donor axle. I'm rooting for you that you don't have to end up emptying out your pocket

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

Snitty is right here, that's the best way I've found to remove the bearing assembly. Cheapest I've found them is $115, so I use used ones.

 

[geronimo_e]

Yeeessss!!!! , it came off, but as you seed, my happy ending was not close at all, turns out after carfull checking the 2 hub assemblies are busted..... , there go my months savings... but I remembered watt you said and went to a junkyard, for the not sow steep price of $70 (still hurts but not has $300 :shock: would) I got the 2 hub's from a 89 cherokee in very good condition, tomorrow I will start the gear swaping, sow I think you will ve hearing from me again :? ... Thanks a lot..... By the way after wreking my bolts from the sofisticated removal method The guy at the junkyard gave me new ones for free.... life is grand...

 

[Snitty]

i've removed many a hub, and have never ruined a bolt... well.. i've ruined thousands of bolts, but not for the hub

 

[geronimo_e]

Well the bolt was actually ruined from the hammering to puch the hub out... Any way I have new trouble ,placed the pinion all ready just added one shim and It fitted perfectly, but... the case wont fit (It actually will fit but it will be to tight), I just have to remove one shim but cant get to it couse of the bearing on the side, how on earth can I take this bearing out, is there a special puller, or do I have to take it to a shop to have them replace it all I want to do I take 1 shim off... Thanks for your help...

 

[Snitty]

is that the carrier (case) that came out of your diff? if so, it should fit with no problems

 

[geronimo_e]

the case I want to fit I my axel (the one in the pic) came from another Dana 30, it will fit but its to tight need to remove al least one shim but cant get the bearing out

 

[Snitty]

i remember the shims being on the outside of my bearing... it may have been assembled wrong

 

[geronimo_e]

Well I busted my puller good news is I got the bearing out, removed 1 shim installed a new bearing ($15) and the case went in like butter, but had no play! ... Everithing fitted great, the pinion has a good grip or at least I think so???? and theres now gear play anywhere! except for the satellite gears from use, but just a little ( Hope what for me is a little, is not a lot for anybody else :? ) installed new U joints everiwhere and tomorrow I fill it up with oil and take the front driveshaft off to prevent any trasfercase crisis ... Thanks a lot Ill post some pictures of the final instalation, Se you on my rear gear swap!!! Thanks.....

 

[Snitty]

aweome to hear

 

[MudderChuck]

I´m no differential expert, but the ones I´ve put together, seem to last (don´t over heat) and don´t start growling and such.
Make sure the pinion turns with a fairly, light turn, like with three fingers with the axles out. There is a spec. to be checked with an inch pound torque wrench called pre-load. That checks if the pinion is too loose or too tight. If the pinion or carrier bearings are to tight, they heat up and turn blue/black pretty quick.
Should be able to fit a feeler gauge of a few thousandths (minimum)(check the book), between the pinion and the ring gear.
The ring gear should turn with two fingers (moderate pressure) and there should be a little play side to side (a few thousandths). Hard to check, because of the cone shape of the carrier bearings and the wieght of the carrier.
Clean the pinion and ring gear, with spray, brake cleaner and put a light coat of white grease, copper grease or tooth paste, on the pinion with a small brush and turn it over a couple of revolutions. Look and see if the pinion leaves some color, pretty close to the center of the ring gear. gear teeth. If it´s to far in or out you´ll probably have trouble later. It will probably start growling.
Get a hold of an old Chiltons truck and van repair manual at the library and check the repair section in the back, for the Dana diff.
The shims behind the bearing and the shims behind the bearing cup on the carrier, are what center, the carrier in the case and keep things tight enough (but not too tight). There is a kit available, that has a selection of shims if needed. Last one I bought was about $35. The pinion and the ring gear are a set, I´ve never tried to change one without the other.

 

[geronimo_e]

well I did the grease test and I leves a mark of grease about 2/3 of the way inwards on the ring gear, and It has very very little play on pinion and ring gears, so I think its ok :? , Ived all ready reinstalled everythig on again and it turns ok with no problems or noises and Its not hard or loose to turn.. Hope it lasts
thanks for the test...

 

[MudderChuck]

My New Winter Project

Most of the diff´s that started howling, that I´ve seen, had the grease patch to far out, on the ring gear tooth. If you havn´t reassembled everything yet. Try and stick a feeler gauge between the pinion and the ring gear. There should be some kind of play, but usually very little, hardly measurable (a few thousandths). A little loose is probably better than too tight.
The pinion should turn with one hand. But should have little/or no play when pushed up and down. I´ve seen guys that installed pinions, that took a wrench to turn. Didn´t last long. Things swell, when they get hot.
The carrier is hard to get too tight, without using a case spreader. But loose carrier bearings, will howl some, but usually last OK.
I usually try and keep the speed down some for a half a thousand miles, to give things a chance to seat in. But I guess, with your front diff. this is impratical.
Good luck. I´ve had pretty good luck, changing diff. parts so far. Carefull and clearances seem to be the key.

 

[Snitty]

good tips there... it IS an intimidating job, but if done with care and caution, can be done without one 4 letter word. i did mine as a rookie over a year ago... still doin great

 

[geronimo_e]

Yea, , thats almoust exactly the description of the status on my diff not to tight but not to loose, just right or at least I think so , except for the fealer gauge thing I didnt do it couse I had already filled it up... Thanks for all your help.. since im only a 21 year old rockie hope you can give me some new pointers on the rear gear swap later when I get some money .....

 

[Utah_jeepster]

the backlash setting is +/- .010. A craftsman drop indacator and mag base should be used to check the backlash. Too loose of a gap and you will get a varable on your root engagment of the ring and pinion. This will prematurely wear out your pinion bearings and gears. Leaving small metal fragments floating in your gear oil which in turn will wear out your locker.

 

[MudderChuck]

Having enough backlash, to allow for some swelling from heat is a good idea.