exhaust
- Thread starter YJnamedTJ
- Start date
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
It's likely you have 1 probably 2 exhaust manifold studs broken off (front and rear studs common), so you'll have to drill those out and hope to back them out. That'll be the majority of the labor involved, everything else comes off with a sawzall.
well i was considering just leaving the manifold and gutting the cat and getting a new cat-back exhaust and a front pipe from a tj... i hear thats a good upgrade.....and my manifold stud bolts are sheared off or broken off...... and i was just going to replace the bolts and leave the maifold. thin thatll work?
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
Yes, the 2.5L manifold is not prone to cracking as the 4.0L part is. I had the dealership fix my front front and rear studs for free, as I fell under the 8yr/80K mile TSB issued by Chysler. Really quieted the engine.
Keep the manifold, replace everything else.
Keep the manifold, replace everything else.
You know what really sucks. I had to take my head completely off to drill out the rear stud. Little more work than expected, but I learned a lot of information when I did it. I am glad I did. One thing, why do I always end up with extra parts when I am done a big job? :lol:
bryan jeep so you know what size studs or bolts go back in the manifold once i get the old ones pulled out? and could you teel me about how hard it was cause im thinkin i could do it with the help of my uncle....but i dont know.....and whats a good exhaust to buy and where would i get a tj front pipe and would it bolt up to the exhaust im going to buy?
Hey Bud, I really wish I could remember the size, but you will be able to find out when you take your other bolts out. Just go up to a hardware store and match it up. You will need to get grade 8 bolt and washers. It has been like 2 years since I did mine.
Good luck with drilling the old broken bolt out. It is not easy to take the rear one out. That is why my head had to come off. I couldn't get the "reverse out" in there good enough.
I'd recommend taking the head off if you can't get it out easy. Like I said, I learned so much about my engine (I was new at this stuff at that time). The only thing you need to get is a head gasket, and intake/ehaust gasket.
As for the front pipe, just have a muffler shop bend you a new pipe. It will be the cheapest way. They can put it anywhere you want it to go.
EXTRA PARTS EXTRA PARTS EXTRA PARTS :lol:
Good luck with drilling the old broken bolt out. It is not easy to take the rear one out. That is why my head had to come off. I couldn't get the "reverse out" in there good enough.
I'd recommend taking the head off if you can't get it out easy. Like I said, I learned so much about my engine (I was new at this stuff at that time). The only thing you need to get is a head gasket, and intake/ehaust gasket.
As for the front pipe, just have a muffler shop bend you a new pipe. It will be the cheapest way. They can put it anywhere you want it to go.
EXTRA PARTS EXTRA PARTS EXTRA PARTS :lol:
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
The TJ front pipe will bolt up to an aftermarket YJ catback, but it is easy for a shop to bend you a front pipe, and weld in the o2 boss. Make sure it's in front of the oil sump as high up as possible, and they leave room for the starter to be dropped down without removing the exhaust.
Somebody had mentioned using a left-handed drill bit, so it's possible to back the broken stud out if the bit grabs hard. If it doesn't grab hard, it's time for the easy out.
I'm not familiar with using a helicoil, but from what I understand you can drill the entire stud and hole out larger and insert a helicoil for the new stud to grab.
Somebody had mentioned using a left-handed drill bit, so it's possible to back the broken stud out if the bit grabs hard. If it doesn't grab hard, it's time for the easy out.
I'm not familiar with using a helicoil, but from what I understand you can drill the entire stud and hole out larger and insert a helicoil for the new stud to grab.
