Factory decals. Ease of removal?

Conrad906

New member
I've seen a few Wranglers that I like and some have those stupid decals on the side that look like curved paintbrush strokes. How easy are these to remove? and if its possible, is it going to be noticeable due to paint fade. the last one i saw that was a white jeep, 98, with 110k.
 

no idea. mine had the clock lettering plastic piece. it came off in three peces and left the double sided tape in pieces
 
Heat gun. Some body solvent. And some patients. Use a plastic razor blade to scrape it. The a polishing compound to match the paint.
 
^^^ That, my jeep was a sport SE which was only available in 93-95, was only available in 4 colors and had those god aweful splash decals the full length of the body. I did just what Jester posted, they actually came off pretty easy. I followed the whole process up with a good wash and wax. I did this the day after I bought the jeep in 99. One thing to note is, the decals, if factory, were put on the body before the clear coat was 100% cured, so you can, to this day, still see some indentation lines from where the edges of the decal were in the clear coat.
 

Oh, there should be no paint fade if it is a 2 stage paint (base and clear) which I think all tj's are.
 

I would get a bottle of goo gone if there is any glue left on the paint.
 
I have been in the sign biz for many years now, done all kinds of vehicle graphics from motorsports to fleet. I am actually one of those old dinosaurs who can still hand letter, airbrush and pinstripe. I have spent many frustrating hours trying to remove vinyl graphics, here is what seems to be the least painful. There are many types of vinyl used for lettering and graphics these days, all with different thicknesses and grades of adhesive. Some can be removed with little effort at all and some stick like crazy, it all depends what the vinyl was designed to do. But all vinyl graphics have an adhesive that is activated by heat. I use a commercial grade heat gun but a hair dryer will work in a pinch. Begin by heating a corner of the vinyl and get it to lift with your finger nail. DO NOT use a razor blade. Heat softens the paint too and you will leave a divot in the paint, no matter how careful you are. Once you get it started, the trick is to heat it just enough to lift the vinyl but not tear it. Once you get going you will figure out where that fine line is. Don't worry if it leaves the sticky residue behind, you can come back later with mineral spirits and a soft cloth to rub that stuff off. BE PATIENT. If you are careful you can get the vinyl off with little or no damage to the paint. There is almost always a difference between the protected paint and the old surface. You can usually hide the "shadow effect" with a mild rubbing compound and a buffer. I like Meguires medium compound. Ask your local Auto Body Supply store for recommendations and usage guide lines if you have never buffed out paint before. Again be careful not to burn the paint.
This procedure is never easy, but it can be done with good results if you are careful.
Hope this helps, feel free to contact me if I can be of any further help.
Good Luck!
signguy

signguy@wildak.net
 
the easiest way to go is a eraser wheel. get it at napa for 10-12 bucks. got mine from a mechanic that works on the sherrifs dept cars. m!y yj was black with teal blue and pink stripes. they use thiers on a air compresor. i had to use mine on a electric drill. took 2 hrs to take off every stripe on the body. no razors, no heat gun or hair dryers. u need a steady hand and a ton of nerves to cut the stripes off. this eraser wheel stripes the decal only and not the paint. looks better too
 

Have to be careful with those wheels. Seen many paint jobs burnt by them.
 
I just used a heat gun lightly to lift the edge .. then sprayed WD-40 into it and it just lifter right off.. also lighter fluid will lift them but put the heat gun away, or you'll have a flame thrower..
 
Back
Top