jfrabat
New member
I dont know; the D44 from the Rubi is not as strong as a "real" D44, since the axle tubes are thinner...
I want lockers!
- Thread starter luis
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I dont know; the D44 from the Rubi is not as strong as a "real" D44, since the axle tubes are thinner...
jfrabat
New member
Well, yes, you can take a D35, put 31 splines, put a truss on it, and even throw disc brakes on it, and you will have a decent axle that will only take you up to 35" tires.
Don't get me wrong, I have run my D35 with ARB and 33's, and it has yet to break... I think the D35 is not AS BAD as most people make it out to be, but it is not a strong axle in any way. Same with the D44; if you are going to get a Dana 44, get a full one, not the Rubicon, which is weaker than a standard D44...
Don't get me wrong, I have run my D35 with ARB and 33's, and it has yet to break... I think the D35 is not AS BAD as most people make it out to be, but it is not a strong axle in any way. Same with the D44; if you are going to get a Dana 44, get a full one, not the Rubicon, which is weaker than a standard D44...
luis
New member
jfrabat said:
My current set up is just 31 tires. I don't c me going larger the 33 cause my jeep is also a dd. It was just brought to my attention that the rubi axles already came with lockers. That's what got my attention. While researching on a jp magazines website and they said something bout Chrysler making a d44 axle from the jk rubi to fit the tj in the same lenght and same bolt pattern as the tj and tj brackets with electronic lockers. There is no price in there website. Can't imagine it being cheap
Utah_jeepster
Super Moderator
Ok a little info of the Rubicon Dana 44 problem. The main concern is the JK's front Dana 44 for the Rubicon model, The tubes are thinner than the rear or earlier model first offered in 2003 for the Rubicons inaugural year.
There are several fixes out there, the most recent one I saw was driving a turned tube down the I.D. of the axle tubes and a welded gusset around the housing. There has been little to no complaints about the factory rear Dana 44, but they are beefier due to the fact they are the main drive axle. Nothing on Mitchell about bent rear Dana 44 axles in the 2007 and newer.
Still for the money Jeep wants for them you can buy a Currie in any gear range, locker and axle shaft for the same 2700$ price tag.
Take a look at Quadratec and 4wd parts for replacement axles if your looking at that route.
It is true the Dana 35 is a weaker axle but with upgrading axle shafts, trusses, I have seen them handle the worst that Moab can throw at them sitting on 35's and survive quite well.
There are several fixes out there, the most recent one I saw was driving a turned tube down the I.D. of the axle tubes and a welded gusset around the housing. There has been little to no complaints about the factory rear Dana 44, but they are beefier due to the fact they are the main drive axle. Nothing on Mitchell about bent rear Dana 44 axles in the 2007 and newer.
Still for the money Jeep wants for them you can buy a Currie in any gear range, locker and axle shaft for the same 2700$ price tag.
Take a look at Quadratec and 4wd parts for replacement axles if your looking at that route.
It is true the Dana 35 is a weaker axle but with upgrading axle shafts, trusses, I have seen them handle the worst that Moab can throw at them sitting on 35's and survive quite well.
jfrabat
New member
In my case, since I know I would be driving the Jeep from Panama City, Panama to San José, Costa Rica (a bit over 600 miles each way), I know I would stick with 33's, so I went with alloy axles (31 splines) and ARB (open diff for the road, locked for the trail) on both the D35 and D30. I am happy with this setup, and it HAS survived abuse.
I am not saying that this is the best way to go for you, but it has worked well for me so far. It is probably not the cheapest way to go, but it was also not the most expensive (and probably one of the simplest). I did do all 3 (gearing, lockers and alloy axles) at the same time, but you could do the front and then the rear (provided you do not use 4WD before both axles are geared to the same relation). If you do, I would do as Utah suggested and take the front DS out to avoid breaking the rig if you do have one of those "idiot" days where you forget this and throw the rig in 4WD...
If you have 31's, you can run 4.88 no problems, and this gear will also help you out if and when you change to 33's. I ran 4.88 and 31's, and, in fact, I loved it. The little 4 banger would run in 5th gear all on the highway without having to downshift.
Take a look at the following chart: the red line is the stock 2.5L torque curve (according to JP magazine):
If you notice, the most torque is from 3 to 3.5K RPM, and this is where the little engine that could likes to be at...
No, AX-15, the 4.0 is the I-6.
My Dana 35 failed with the stock TracLoc and original 29" tires and I was never hard on it. That's when I lifted and replaced it with a Dana 44 and a Detroit Locker.
jfrabat
New member
Oh, OK. I dont know why I thought I read you had the 2.5L...
Bounty__Hunter
Super Moderator
One of these with a limited slip would be a good affordable upgrade.
Complete Ford 8.8" Rear Axle Assembly Jeep TJ Ready to Bolt In Axle Swap
Complete Ford 8.8" Rear Axle Assembly Jeep TJ Ready to Bolt In Axle Swap
