is there a cheep lift for my cherokee

5spdcherokee

New member
I just bought this pretty nice 89 cherokee and well my truck I have right now is lifted and when I get in my jeep it feels like I'm drivin a car. So I want to know is ther any way I can get like 4 or 5 inches of lift for under a couple, three hundred dollars. Some thing I can fit 31s or 33s with. Thanks for your help.
Chase
 
E bay has them under 500. Blocks for the rear and coil spring spacers, and some no name shocks
mark
 
you can also build a 4"lift kit for about $80 for everything.let me know if you are interested and ill give you a list of the items you'll need.
 

X-tremejeep said:
you can also build a 4"lift kit for about $80 for everything.let me know if you are interested and ill give you a list of the items you'll need.
Please tell, it's not nice to tease ;)

You'll need 5"-6" to clear 33" tires. You can clear more tire with less lift if you're willing to hack on the fenders. Keeps the center of gravity lower as well.

www.naxja.org/forum is a good X source for research on mods.
 
mmmmmm sawzal.... ive seen guys install rear tj fender flares at all corners and it makes a big difference in clearance
 
bajaxj said:
E bay has them under 500. Blocks for the rear and coil spring spacers, and some no name shocks
mark



I would try and stay away from blocks on the rear for lift if you can:(
 

Plus if you go over 3" you have a whole lot of other side effects of lift you must then deal with.

  1. You will need an adjustable drag link because your axle shifts toward the drivers side
  2. dropping the transfer case becomes an issue
  3. pinion angle becomes an issue
  4. rear brake line and emergency cables need to be longer

I'm not saying don't do it, just you need to be prepared to spend a little more when going over the 3" threshold.
 
He should be able to lift that '89 up to 4" or 5" without a transfer case drop or adjusting the pinion angle, the pre'97 XJ's aren't as finicky with driveline vibrations as the newer stuff.

The lower mount of the front track bar can simply be redrilled towards the driver's side to compensate. Brake hard lines can be adjusted to compensate, and a '96 Dakota rear brake line makes a good swap for extra length. 5" plus may require about 1" be added to the rear driveshaft length, not much else needs to be done on that old of an XJ.

I'm still waiting for the secret 4" lift for under $80, :lol:
 

I Gave 5speedjeep A List Of Parts And Directions On How To Build A 4" Lift,while Keeping All Factory Suspintion.so You Can Let Ether Him Or Myself Know If You Need This Info And One Of Us Should Be Able To Get You This Info....8)
 
i too would love to hear of this magical 4" lift. i hardly think $80 will suffice for even the most basic components required, much the less begin address the list of problems pointed out by 90Xjay. on top of what he said, UCA's and LCA's may need to be replaced with either adjustable or longer versions, as well as a new tracbar (or relocation of the factory one) with any lift of 3" or more. my 97 XJ only has a 3 inch lift on it, and lately it has developed a number of suspension related problems (mainly the dreaded death wobble) that are having a devastating effect on my bank account. put another "0" at the end of that "$80" and you'd be a little closer:)
 
X-tremejeep said:
I Gave 5speedjeep A List Of Parts And Directions On How To Build A 4" Lift,while Keeping All Factory Suspintion.so You Can Let Ether Him Or Myself Know If You Need This Info And One Of Us Should Be Able To Get You This Info....8)
What's keeping you from posting this info?
 

if he tells us he will have to kill us all...CONFIDENTIAL!
 
OK HERES A LIST OF WHAT YOU'LL NEED....2-4"square .25"thick steel,2-3.5"long 3"diamater heavy wall tube,2-2" by .75" long round tubing,2-pieces of allthred that are the same size as your shock studs,2-1"long nuts that will fit on your shocks stud,2-3"blocks for the rear springs........now that you got the parts you will need a welder and a cutting torch.....weld the flat steel to the 3"tubes,now carefuly cot the excess around the tube(be careful not to cut the weld)....now weld the 2" tube to the top of each tube.....now drill 2-2'' holes in the center of the top and bottom of each one.....now you have a 4"spring spacer for the frount,(THE FLAT END GOES UP);) .....in order to eliminate the dreded "DEATH WOBBLE"you will redrill lower steering rod conector 1" over this will give you 2" extra travel,you will also need to get a frount end allinement.......now the allthred and 1" nuts will be attched to your frount shocks to allow you to still run factory shocks.........now put your blocks in the rear and now you have a total of 4" lift.............I HAVE USED THIS SYSTEM NUMEROUS TIMES,IT WORKS,I HAVE POSTED SOME PICTURES OF MY PRESENT TO MY PAST CHEROKEES,...LET ME KNOW IF THERE IS ANY OTHER QUESTIONS REGARDING THIS8)
 
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Yeah bu...

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I don...


:purple::purple::purple::purple:

Ya might not...

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Oh, nevermind.
 
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Now I know why you were hesitant to post. You can buy a flame suit with the money you saved ;)
 
amazing...

as moderator of this forum, i feel it is my obligation to point out to the general public that this guy's a moron. take what he says with a grain of salt and nobody should get hurt (unless they actually try to follow his directions)

-nate
 
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You could market that stuff on eBay :shock:
 
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