jacking up a yj high enough for SOA install

[jeepinstien]

Grasshopper. You are making this waaaay to hard. Get 8x8 cinder blocks and put a piece of wood on top. Then place jackstand on top and position under the frame. Replace the springs eat your wheaties and mount the axels.

Call me.

 

[bryanjeep]

Boy oh boy, I was waiting for good ole' vic to chime in. What's up? Trust me, you will be here to help. You think cylinder blocks are ok to use. I don't have any though. Have anything that might work for me? I am definetely going to need your help with the dana 44 perches.

 

[Joopin]

You guys better up your life insurance policy before the project if you are going to lay under a jeep held up by cinder blocks. Good luck.

 

[Joopin]

You guys better up your life insurance policy before the project if you are going to lay under a jeep held up by cinder blocks. Good luck.

 

[Ritt]

Like I said, over and over, these axles are extremely heavy and not worth the trouble.

Read my post about the floor jacks. You don't need to lift them, or jack your Jeep as high, and you'll be able to move them around much easier, up, down or adjust each end as you need to. How will you do the fine adjusting of the axle with wheels on?

I guess I don't understand why you asked for suggestions if you're doing it your way anyway.

 

[Snitty]

the rimz are on!! pics inside

SO MUCH easier getting to the ubolts with the wheels off...

it is NOT hard to put wheels on, for rolling it around, once the axles are off the jeep.. also.. i did my entire job without taking the rear axle out from under the jeep... i just moved it one way, dropped one end, moved it the other way, dropped that.. and i was ready to line the pinion up...

not an argument here... but the higher the jeep goes, the less stable it is... the railroad tie idea is pretty good for outrigging the support... but if you can move railroad ties around, you can pick up one end of an axle long enough for someone to mount a wheel and one lugnut...

anyway... whatcha got in mind for steering on this project of yours? and what are you doin about brakelines? get at me if you need help with anything

 

[bryanjeep]

I guess I don't understand why you asked for suggestions if you're doing it your way anyway.

I am appreciative of the help. I am asking for help because I wanted help. There is no reason to say that.

I will be able to get to the u bolts with the tires on. I have some railroad ties cut in half. They are very easy to carry around. This seems to be the best idea. Letting axles sit on the rotors and drag around the axles is not a good idea.

Brakelines are going to be made at a hydraulic shop. The steering is yet to be decided because the Dana 44 did not come with a tie rod or anything other than knuckles.

 

[currupt4130]

hi steer!

 

[west747]

with the SOA you may find that is the only set-up that works...it was for me cause i didnt want to have any z bend draglinks on my rig :lol:

the hi steer arms are cheap but finding the right knuckles, spideles, hub assembley and various brake components can be tricky

 

[Snitty]

hi steer is the best way to do it, but you can't say its the only way.... that is like saying "go with a dana44 front and rear, use selectable lockers... and you're gonna need to run beadlocks"... of course it would be prefered... but its no easy to come across the parts... or pay for

if you take the wheels off.. you don't have to drag the axles around on the rotors... you only have to move it 3 feet, then put the wheels back on...

and trust me.. it is a LOT easier doing brake work and getting to the Ubolts with the wheels off....

i don't see going through the extra time in trouble to avoid doing something that takes 5 minutes to do

then again... your project... i'm glad you're sticking to your ideas, its admirable

 

[west747]

or a crossover set-up.

 

[Snitty]

aren't crossover and histeer pretty much the same idea... both getting the tierod above the springs?

 

[bryanjeep]

I really cannot afford to go replace the knuckles. What other options are there?

 

[west747]

you may have to make and bend a drag link to fit...but you will need to fit a tierod bar first to dettermin if it has a hole in it for a drag link...

i am sure there are companies out there that can make you something but it might be expensive.

 

[88Wrangles]

if you take the wheels off.. you don't have to drag the axles around on the rotors... you only have to move it 3 feet, then put the wheels back on...

and trust me.. it is a LOT easier doing brake work and getting to the Ubolts with the wheels off....

i don't see going through the extra time in trouble to avoid doing something that takes 5 minutes to do

Man, you sure don't give up easily :shock: . That's cool though.

I've replace axles both with the tires on and with them off. In my opinion, it was easier with them on. A corp. 14 bolt weighs over 500 lbs. All you have to do for the u-bolts is just get the nuts started, then take the tires back off and tighten them up and do whatever else you need to do.

My $.02

 

[west747]

on a cross-over i beleive the tie-rod bar is still under the springs but the drag link is above the spings....same principle as a hi steer but only on one side.. or is it the cheerokee style steering set-up with the the v-shape? Sh$t i cant remeber anyone know?

 

[Snitty]

Brake line & bleeder sizes?

haha.. no i never give up when i'm trying to make a point... i see your point too... i just like to debate.. haha

and yeah, the crossover/highsteer difference.. i remember now