lift choices

black87yj

New member
I have decided to do a spring over and i am going to use some xj parts to save money. a t case lowering, new brake lines, in the rear i will use the xj cv style shaft and cut it down.rotate the pinion up too. what i'm wondering is if there is any difference in the dana 35s used in my 87 yj and the 89 xj ? ( internally) i say this because i could be welding spring perches and such on the 89 35 while still driving the 87 yj. also would it be possible to swap the 89 front axle to the yj to eliminate that damn disconnect???:???:
i know, i know,... i change my mind too often but once i start cutting i'm commited...or should be :lol: i dont do as much wheeling as you all do, but i need the snow clearance and some stump clearance for what i do do, so i guess i'm considered a light duty wheeler . the largest tires i want to run are my 32x11.5s . my tired 4.2 will have to stay for a while ( budget cuts !) the 89 xj is mine and my sons parts jeep . he has a 91 xj daily driver. i am pretty good at fabbing and welding as long as my arthritis doesnt flare up ( lymes/rhymetoid gives me fits sometimes) any way i digress again...would there be any negatives to this aproach ? :?| thanks for letting me ramble .
 
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where to start...the d35 should both be non c-clip so that is good..the d-30 wont swap(leaf to coil) but you can snag the axles and block off disconect. also spring over w/ 32's..why bother.
 
Spring over and 32's hmmm? I hate to say it, but you're wasting you're time if that's the biggest tire you'll run. Also, the 35 from the XJ has wider perches and different shock mounts, you'll do more work to make it fit than you will to yours.
 
Good chance the XJ and YJ have different gear ratios, but otherwise they're the same when both are stripped of their mounts.

I wouldn't remove the YJ D30, but you can permanently engage the disconnect or replace it with a solid axleshaft if it really bothers you.

You can't really use a CV rear driveshaft unless you install a SYE (slipyoke eliminator), and if you use a SYE you don't need the TC drop. If you're gonna do the TC drop, don't do the rear CV driveshaft and keep the rear pinion parallel with the transfer case output.
 

originally i was just going with a helper spring /shackle lift but thought since i was laying it up and had the parts i'd go for broke ! but it sounds like if the d30 and d35 are ok then maybe i'll go back to that plan. i ran a similar set up (extra leafs and longer shackles/body lift ) on my 77 golden eagle with 33s and had alot of fun. thanks for the input all !
 
I would run a mild SUA suspension lift from a company like Rubicon Express or Black Diamond Suspension if I were you. Do it right the first time. If you do go the shackle and add a leaf route though. Try to minimize the shackle lift as much as you can and make sure you use full eye to eye add a leaves.
 

would there be any negatives to this aproach ?
You don't want to weld your spring perches in advance of installing the axle. You need to get the axle under there then set the perches the right distance apart by measuring. Let the weight of the Jeep down onto the axle and set your rear pinion angle pointed straight at the case. Now bump the pinion down about 5 degrees. Five is a rough guess, because you have to figure that the springs will settle. As the springs settle the pinion will point higher. Once you are happy with the perch placement, you can tack weld them in place. Pull the axle back it to finish welding it up after you get all you shock brackets tacked as well.
The process for the front is similar, but you have to be more careful as any change in the pinion angle from the factory setting is also changing the caster. In other words don't change the pinion angle or it will steer horribly.

You must also address the traction bar issue (lack of) on the rear if you do a spring over.
 
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