new to jeeps....educated quesions from a novice.

[fast_Z28_guy]

1 245/75r/16 goodyear mt/r tire

hey guys, i was gonna post under my GF's screen name...she's new too...since she's the one who wants to buy a jeep. but i figured i would just create my own name. this way she can add her own information and views.
she wants a jeep...i'm the "car guy" so she wants me to help her research what to buy and what NOT to buy.

i'm new to jeeps other than driving a friends mid 90s jeep. i've got plenty of car experience. i've owned 3 camaros, an 87, 96 and now a 99. i've rebuilt suspension, installed a clutch and done some pretty in depth upgrades by myself. so wrenching is not new to me. my current ride, the 99z28 is pushing 400hp to the wheels

i'm also not new to message boards...been on a camaro board with nearly 50,000 members for about 8 yrs.

i went ahead and read the first 6 pages of the CJ YJ forum and have some questions. answer the ones you can. be as simple or specific as you want. i'll figure it out.

1 - what is the difference between the CJ, YJ and TJ?? is it just like the "generation" of the jeep? like 82-92 camaros are 3rd gens, and 93+ are 4th gens? or is it something more in depth?

for the techincal stuff...this is going to be a daily driver. no real offroad stuff (no moutains in florida...just mud), possibly towing a small boat (if i ever buy one)

2 - was reading a post about reinforcing the frame. i know sub-frame connectors make a huge differnce on the camaros, but they have unibody construction. the post mentioned reinforcing the steering box mount. i understand how having wider tires can increase the stress on the mount. is this a common problem? is there a simple fix? i know this was common to the early 80s camaros/firebirds and they sold a "wonderbar" that mounted behind the steering box to strenghten it. anything similar with the jeep?

3 - since i'm looking at used mostly. what is a good milage to look for? i don't WANT to rebuild anything...even though i know i could. so for daily driving and minimal offroad...what is a good milage to look for...or avoid?

4 - how strong is the auto trans? typical clutch life for the manuals?

5 - how difficult is the rear main seal to change. i know this is a common problem on alot of vehicles. saw it mentioned several times. average life?

6 - trans fluid. saw something about Chrysler using the wrong kind, GL5 and it causing blown transmissions. is this something common that dealerships screwed up? or was it written wrong in a manual? is it smart to change the fluid straight away...just to make sure? granted i'd probably do ALL the fluids just so i knew they were good, to start fresh (good idea with any car i think).

7 - what year did they change to obd2? probably the same as most cars...1996. is there any advantage to obd1 over 2 when it comes to ease of maintainence? i know with obd2 on the camaros you run into some sensors that are more of a hassle when you start modding. is there a way to check "Service Engine" lights without a scanner on any of the jeeps?

8 - when it comes to swapping tires...how easy is it to recalibrate for bigger tires? i know in my 99z28 it has to be done in the computer. my old 87 you could do it with speedo gears. i don't want BIG tires, but those dinky stockers are kindda BLAH.

LAST AND MOST IMPORTANT

DEATH WOBBLE:
sounds like it is caused by a combination of things. worn out parts, bushings, bearings etc, and a specific speed and road condition. i would assume proper maintenance...or preventative maintenance...would reduce the likelyhood of this happening. is it more prevailent with bigger tires?

 

[fast_Z28_guy]

anyone wanting to check out my 99z28 here is my site:

www.cardomain.com/id/teke184

 

[GaryMB]

1. Yes, the CJ, YJ, and TJ are just different generations of Jeeps. The CJ is the oldest, then came the YJ Wrangler, and then in 1997 Jeep made the TJ Wrangler. The CJ and YJ both have leaf springs front and rear, while the TJ has coil springs front and rear. In order of street handling, the TJ is the best, followed by the YJ, followed by the CJ. Of course, aftermarket suspensions can change this. The CJ's and early YJ's were carbureted, and emissions is a real headache with these motors. The newer YJ's and the TJ's are fuel injected and the 4.0l motors and the trannies in these are hard to beat.
2. Yes, there are ways to brace the steering box. There is a steering box brace as well as a heavy duty steering box mount. Check out www.samsoffroad.com or www.4wd.com. I wouldn't recommend these unless you run large tires.
3. It depends greatly on how well the Jeep has been taken care of. I would say that if it has been taken care of, the inline six cylinder motors can easily last over 200k. The lowest mileage I've seen on a junkyard Jeep was 145k, and it was an older style 4.0L out of a 1989 Cherokee. If the Jeep appears to be taken care of, then I wouldn't go much higher than 100k, since you still want alot of life out of the motor.
4. The auto's in the older Jeeps were definately stronger than the manuals, while the newer manuals (1990+) are fine. I don't think any of the trannies, except for the 1987-1989 manuals, will give you any trouble. I have no idea about clutch life.
5. I've never done just the rear main seal, so I couldn't tell you.
6. Not sure
7. 1996. I've never looked into converting to/from obdI and obdII, and don't know the legality of it. Personal, I wouldn't bother with it.
8. You can change the speedo gear in the transfer case if you really want the speed to be dead on. Or you could change the gears, but most people just live with the speedo being off.

 

[fast_Z28_guy]

thanks for the info...nice to hear the transmissions are stout.

didn't really think about the gear swap with larger tires. since the bigger tires would make it more sluggish, like going from 4.10 gears to 3.23s. that will take some looking into.

i think some of the BLAH factor with factory rim/tires is the rim style.

how tall are most stock tires?

 

[Green97TJ]

RE: Gear ratio after lift

Ok, I would definately go with the six cylinder if I was you. Dont get me wrong, the 4 popper isnt a bad engine for what it is, but you'll be happier with the 6, especially if you plan on towing anything. Everything I've heard about the auto trannies is that they are strong, however, if you want overdrive you'll have to get an 03 or newer (or maybe 04?? somebody check me on that). The older ones are 3 speed with a 1:1 high gear. As far as the transmission fluid problem, it was on the manuals from late 80's up thru late 90's or so. The way I understand it, Chrysler recomended the wrong fluid, and it was corrosive and ate up the synchros. I dont know exactly what years you can, but I know my 97 you can check the codes without a scanner. Im sure you can get more info if you do have a scanner, but if a check engine light is on, you can get an idea of why without a scanner.

I hope all that made sense. Probably not the most clearly written post you'll find on here, but it should help some. And anyone else, feel free to correct me if anything i said is wrong.

Nathan

P.S. Id recomend a TJ (97 and up) since you said mostly street driven and light off-roading. Some say its too carlike, but the plus side of that is that it definately has the best street manners. Thats what i have and i love it, on and off road.

 

[TwistedCU]

RE: Gear ratio after lift

#6 - The AX5 (used for the 2.5L) and AX15 (used in the 4.oL) manuals are the ones you speak of. If you buy one yes I'd change the fluid right away. Not sure where the goof up started but they are supposed to get GL3. Synthetic is the best way to go.

Death Wobble. Mostly a result of poor alignment, but it can be any of the things you mentioned. If the Jeep's parts are solid and aligned it shouldn't have DW.

The steering box is fine with stock size tires but a breace is a good idea for 33" tires or larger. The frame should be fine for what you describe it will be used for so long as it isn't rusted

For larger tires, a speedo gear will take care of everything but your loss of power. For that, re-gearing will be the cure. It's really not an issue until you go bigger that 31" tires though... noticeable yes, but not an issue.

 

[Snitty]

RE: Re: RE: Re: Who

There are many options for the correct gear oil.

I am currently looking into finding the least expensive speedo gear for my 33 inchers

 

[LVRockCrawler]

RE: Brake hoses on the way

cj/yj/tj all different but still Jeeps - mainly the TJ is a breed apart with the coil spring suspension, ABS, airbags... they all have strengths/weaknesses... and personal preference....
go 6 cyl / 5spd for best reliability/flexability/useablility
death wobble... make sure the front end is in good shape - i'm running 4" lift w/33's, no track bar, no sway bar and have no DW....
as for engine life, mine is at 116K mi and no smoke and passes smog no problem... (knock wood) take care and it'll be good for 200K easy...
take heed of the gear oil spec here for the GL rating... your synchro's will last longer....
as for rear seals - most times its the valve cover gasket leaking, running down the back of the motor and looking like a rear main leak (my current and my old 91 played that game with me...)
as for lift kits - NO PRO-COMP!!!! otherwise there are many good ones to choose from...

the main thing is to remember... here there are no stupid questions (except the one you DONT ask..) - as has been said b/4... information changes and things progress... a question that has been done to death 6 mos. ago may be different today as tech., experience and people change... so dont ever be afraid to ask a question here... you wont get flamed (although we may have fun now and again!!!) the main thing is get the jeep, have fun with it and remember... the most difficult part of any modification is this... explaining / justifying to the better half why it must be done!!! g'luck and WELCOME!!!

 

[fast_Z28_guy]

thanks for the info man.

don't worry...as questions arise..i'll ask. i've been an active member of a camaro board with almost 50,000 members for going on 8yrs.

i know my way around the inter-web

as for this:
"explaining / justifying to the better half why it must be done"

the jeep is for the "better half"...she wants one.

my problem is justifying why i need to buy more parts for my camaro...she doesn't always realize that 450hp isn't quite enough 8) [/i]

 

[Joopin]

Re: Laughter.... the color of life

I just passed 210k on my 91 YJ 4.0... def. go with the 6 cyl, your not going to save much gas milage with the 4 banger.

 

[redrooster]

Assuming that you are going to run Mud instead of Rock Crawling:
1. The major differences as stated above are true. Additionally, the CJ while stylish has the narrowest and weakest frame. Still good for what most people do, but more prone to cracks. The CJ can also be found with a 304 V8 and accept the 360 and 401 as a direct swap with no mods. The YJ got square headlights, thicker gauge mandrel bent frame and is 4" wider between frame rails in the engine compartment. This makes it easier if you ever consider a larger V8 swap. The TJ has a stout frame (don't know the dimensions) and sports coil springs all the way around. IMO it is the best of all 3 in stock form solely due to the suspension. The fuel injected 4.0 HO is the most desirable of the factory engines.
2. Frame reinforcement is not really necessary on any of the Jeeps. The steering box brace or thicker mount may be required if you run over a 35" tire. You will know when to add one as you see small hairline cracks develop extending out from the bolt holes that are drilled through the frame.
3. As always, get as low mileage as you can afford.
4. All the autos will be fine in your environment. Older CJ's could be found with the TH400, TF727, 999, 904. I think the YJ's got the 904 and some may have gotten the Aisen Warner AW4 from the Cherokee. I wouldn't swear to it though. I have never heard of any particular complaint out of any of the autos. I'm not an expert on the manuals, but you will find that the ones that came with a 4cyl engine will not handle the power of a V8 if you ever swap. The CJ had an old 3 speed T98, a desirable T18 or T176 4 speed and some had a 5 speed. All will handle a V8 except maybe the 5 speed. Can't really tell you any more about the newer manuals. Clutch life really depends on how it is driven.
5. If you don't have a leak somewhere on the engine of a Jeep then it is obvious that the engine has been replaced with a Chevrolet. Just kidding. The older straight sixes were known to have leaky valve covers. I have only repleaced the rear main on a 304 and it was easy. The seal is a two piece design requiring only the removal of the oil pan and rear bearing cap. You can roll the upper part of the seal out and replace it easy enough. I figure they probably all have the two piece seal.
6. News to me.
7. Not sure. I want to say 96 is correct.
8. You can do like stated above and replce the speedo gear, or Superlift makes an electronic Tru Speed sender for newer models.
On a side note: I think you had it backwards on the gearing. If you run larger tires you may need to re-gear the axles in a lower ratio. Usually most guys go to 4.10, 4.56, 4.88 or 5.13 depending on engine, transmission gears and tire size.
You can't go wrong with any of them, but obviously for dependability the newer the better.

 

[fast_Z28_guy]

RE: Lift Ideas?

thanks for the info...that's some good stuff.

we don't plan on any crazy V8 swaps....although my 450hp LS1 would be bad ass...although spinning it to 6800rpms may not be so great for an offroad jeep.

as for the gears...i had it right in my head...just typed it confusing

"didn't really think about the gear swap with larger tires. since the bigger tires would make it more sluggish, like going from 4.10 gears to 3.23s."

what i meant was putting bigger tires on would give the same FEEL as going smaller on the gears.
like going from 28 to 35" tires would make the jeep feel like you went from 4.56 to 3.23 gears

 

[snook]

the jeep is for the "better half"...she wants one.
[/i]

it's the "better half"(something of the sort anyway) posting finally.

yes i'm the one who wants the jeep. after driving a "battle wagon" for 7 years (thanks mom & dad) i want something fun that i finally like to drive. corvettes...expensive & not much room. f-bodies...not being made. mustangs...not when you're an anti-ford kinda girl. & until recently jeeps totally escaped my thinking, but what better, especially in the keys. so now i'm on the lookout & doing research, but can't understand a whole lot past color, soft or hard top, automatic/manual, or 4 or 6 cylinders(definintely 6 before i got any of your opinions or my uncle the mechanic pounded it in my head, i had that one decided) so that's the reason mr. z28 above is now picking all of your brains. thank you for the patience and information & i'll probably leave z28 to asking the majority of the questions

 

[LVRockCrawler]

good call w/the jeep thing tho - the fun factor is there and useability/versatility is unsurpassed! - I've had cars and pickups, wagons and everything from lame (AMC Hornet Sportabout wagon circa 1976) to insane (68 Mustang GT fastback, 71 New Yorker 2dr w/a 500HP 440) and always end up back w/the Jeep - most bang for the buck and mods can go from free to $$$$$.... g'luck and looking fwd to hearing more from (the both of) you!