Opinions on body lift


I was just looking at this ad a few days ago. The price is ceartainly not bad, but I don't think that a 1" lift is worth all that work. If I was doing a body lift on my rig, I'd rather go with at least a 3". Just my opinion. -al
 
89 yj parts to a 91 yj

I too am planning a 1" body lift in the very near future. While I can't say with expierence, I wouldn't say a 1" body lift is all that much work. Pretty much just replacing a few bolts and mounts.

3" body lifts, IMO, just look ugly and I can't see how it can do all that much good.

I think you'll be fine with a 1" lift.

-Rob

Who is looking at Performance Accessories 1" body lift kit for about $85.
 
I did the 3in and I must admit it look pretty rough but it works and it only to about 3hrs would have been less if my buddy werent envolved but that is what made it fun but, you can see way too much frame but I guess you get what you pay for, a 3in suspension lift is way more than a 140.00 bucks.

marc
 

I instaled my 1 inch body lift with no problems.Only thing I had to do was take the body bolts off, and lower the fan shroud 1 inch.Took about 3 hours.
 
I wouldn't use a body lift over about 2", too much leverage on the body and the body bolts. Stick with 1" for that extra little bit of tire clearance.

I've used the 1" hockey puck body lift on 4 jeeps now with not one problem. $25 for pucks and bolts, about an hour to install.
The pucks are hard rubber, they don't crack or compress. They are wider than the stock body mount, so weight is more evenly distributed and leverage in minimized.

Don't believe any naysayers, use what works for you.
 
I posted this already in another thread, but this one seems more fitting. I'm just curious how much work, and money is involved in both a body lift (1") and a suspension lift (around 3")? Is this something I, of little mechanical know how, can do in my garage, and what special equipment is needed? I never lifted my old Toyota, but I just gots to lift my YJ!!

More about the previous posts...I've seen some really nasty looking body lifts, not only on Jeeps, but other 4x4s as well....an old buddy of mine put a 6" body lift on his F250 several years ago, and after about 6 months, it leaned pretty badly to one side. That was after we went our separate ways, so I don't know what went wrong (other than he was an idiot...I'll tell ya the story about driving 75mph on the front driveline only later). What will a 3" suspension lift do with the drive line angle on a Jeep? And, how will a 1" body lift on top of that affect that angle further?

I know, that's a lot of questions, but I've got plenty of time, any responses and opinions are welcome.
 

Hi guys,

Thanks for the opinions/advice. I'm not to worried about the actual work involved in the lift. I really wanted to see if anybody had any experience with this particular lift (i.e. the material it is made of etc.), since I have seen 1" body lift prices that range from this one to ~$120. So more fuel for the fire...
 
That kit looks pretty darn complete. Nice price as well. I don't see any problems with that price and whats included. Can't say I know anyone who bought through that "ebay company" though.

-Rob
 
That kit looks fine. We've made lots of machine parts from UHMW and I don't see why it wouldn't make a good material for a body lift. Anytime I have made a puck lift from some type of plastic, I have laser cut washers the same size as the puck and sandwiched the puck between two of them to distribute the load across the surface and fight compression of the plastic, but I don't think it would really be needed with that stuff.

I know some don't like the look of a body lift, but they don't look as bad on a Jeep as they do on other vehicles. I don't go over 3" of body lift because well.....it's just tacky. However, I have NEVER had any problems with one. I just don't see how somebody can consider a CJ or YJ sitting on a 3"body lift, TJ flares and a set of 33" mud tires to be a bad thing!?! You would think that some people actually consider that a downgrade from factory!
 

the body lift won't affect driveline angles.

the transmission and t-case are on the skidplate which is mounted to the botom of the frame rails.

with a body lift over 2" i think you start haveing to worry about having enough length in wires and maybe brake and fuel lines.

personally i don't like anything over 1", but don't really see any issues with 2.

i'm not to sure on a 3" suspention lift. i'm fairly certian on most parts you would and wouldn't need, but i'll leave that to someone who would know for sure.
 
skyjeeper said:
the body lift won't affect driveline angles.

the transmission and t-case are on the skidplate which is mounted to the botom of the frame rails.

with a body lift over 2" i think you start haveing to worry about having enough length in wires and maybe brake and fuel lines.

personally i don't like anything over 1", but don't really see any issues with 2.

i'm not to sure on a 3" suspention lift. i'm fairly certian on most parts you would and wouldn't need, but i'll leave that to someone who would know for sure.
Click to expand...


And the clutch linkage.
 
Have you all come accross a 2" lift for YJ's ? I seem to only find 1" and 3" body lifts. I think that a 2 " lift would be a great compromise. It will not be too much, yet you will be able to notice it. If there is none, does anybody know why?-al
 

I have a 2" body lift and I've had no problems with it. Brake/fuel lines didn't have to be adjusted. I like the clearance it gives me. The only thing I don't like is the short gap between the frame and body(only looks!).
 
WANTED: J10,J20, or Commanches

I wouldn't dot it. It looks like hockey pucks with holes in it. If you are going to do a lift, and have a low budget, do a body lift, but no more than 2 inches. This will create a sag and a possible warp in your tub.. not good. 2 inches will alow you to run 31" tires at the most, and they will tuck all right. Go to he nearest 4wheel parts store and ask them too.
 
use some 1.5-2" square tubing, with holes drilled for the bolts, above the stock (or stock thickness) body bushings along the framerail and along the front and back... it raises the body, covers the gap, supports body sag, and holds the body more stable
 

I've seen in some 4 wheel mags (4 wheel hardware, I think) that sells a 2' length of body rubber that you can cut to length. The rubber's $25. If you cut the rubber a total of 1-3" + whatever the original thickness of the body mount, wouldn't that work too? All that's left is buying some bolts and heavy duty washers.
 
ah_too_bad said:
I wouldn't dot it. It looks like hockey pucks with holes in it.
Click to expand...
And what's wrong with that?

ah_too_bad said:
This will create a sag and a possible warp in your tub.. not good.
Click to expand...
What will cause sag and warp the tub? A body lift mounts the tub to the frame the same as the stock body bushings. Some are even an imrovement as they are much wider than the stock body bushings, thus spreading out the load and reducing leverage. Hockey pucks are a benefit for exactly this reason.
 
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