Rear axle. Dana 44 Vs Ford 8.8

[Jesse]

Alright so I've heard a lot about how great Ford 8.8's are for a reasonable cheap axle swap. I've even heard talk of them being strong than the Dana 44's. So, my question to all you Jeeps is, what is your opinion on the matter? Do you think a Ford 8.8 would be a good swap? Any other axles I should look at possibly?

 

[buckshot500]

I've read that the 8.8 is stronger. It still is a C-clip axle though.

C-clip eliminators are available, but were usually designed for drag racing, not offroading.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I've read that the 8.8 is stronger. It still is a C-clip axle though.

What's wrong with it being a c-clip axle? Should that keep somebody from using one? Not an issue.

The 8.8 is stronger than the d44.

COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating
Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.

Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

The 8.8 is a good swap, put one in my old MJ, found one with 4.10 along with a d30 front with 4.10 in the junkyards.

The Isuzu rear d44 from a mid-'90s Rodeo or Honda Passport is a good option, already has disc brakes. They have the same 6-lug wheel pattern as the Wagoneer front d44 so it leaves your options open on the front axle upgrade.

 

[88Wrangles]

I was going to say the 8.8 is stronger...but Bounty proved it so already. If you want an 8.8 with disks, 1995 and newer explorers have them and are, at least around here, really common. 90-94 have the 10" drums.

 

[Jesse]

Hmm, alright everyone, thanks for your opinions.

 

[jps4jeep]

if you do go 8.8, properly weld the center chunk to the axle shafts. seen a couple 8.8's spin the diff. the tubes are only held in with 2 roset welds, not very strong. also look to get some type of cradle girdle or two birds, one stone, solid truss from tube to tube and tie it into the idd some how.

 

[Ggg]

if you do go 8.8, properly weld the center chunk to the axle shafts.

Yeah that the hot ticket. lol

 

[jps4jeep]

huge opps.. axle tube

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I used 55%nickel rods when welding the center chunk of my 8.8 to the axletubes, worked real well. I like my d44 better due to lower prices on parts, more available diff options, and much more common all around.

 

[Crazy4diesels]

Someplace I read those Ford 8.8's are held together with soft flat-head rivets at the pumpkin... No wonder they sometimes turn.

 

[88Wrangles]

Someplace I read those Ford 8.8's are held together with soft flat-head rivets at the pumpkin... No wonder they sometimes turn.

Ya you definitely want to put a good weld between the center and the axle tubes. They're good axles/housings, but that's they're one big downfall in stock form.

 

[Truth]

The 8.8 has c-clips which is the same weak point in the shaft as the d35. I've seen plenty of 8.8 shafts break, and then the wheel falls off. the diff hangs down really low, they have a paper thin diff cover, they spin tubes, and are notorious for chewing up pinion bearings. If you've ever changed a c-clip shaft with a locker while layin in the dirt you wouldn't want to do it again. The ground clearance you lose vs a 44 or 9 inch or 8 3/4 is more than a few inches.

There are much better choices out there.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

The wheel doesn't fall off as most have disc brakes. The c-clip isn't the achilles' heel it is in the d35. The stock cover is thin but many upgrade the cover on any axle that is wheeled hard.

The 8.8 isn't a bad axle once you address a few minor issues.

 

[Truth]

It's not bad, but there are other choices that I think are better. C-clips are always an Achilles heel. Shafts break at the clip, not in the middle. Why upgrade to a stronger axle to handle bigger tires if you lose the ground clearance gained by bigger tires in the first place? There are other choices that don't have these issues to address. I would have toy axles if they weren't so narrow.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

They generally don't break at the clip, but in the middle of the splines. The clip groove is the narrowest part of the shaft but there is no torque in that area, only between the splines and the wheel flange.

The only thing that would break a shaft at the clip is a severe side load on the wheel, and I've never seen it.

 

[jps4jeep]

ok I'll say it


go D60 and don't look back.

Probably build one for what the 8.8 will cost from the junk yard and will be way stronger. Convert to 5 on 5.5 lug pattern (unless you can find a D60 with that pattern, they are rare but exhist) and then just put some lug conversion spacers on the frontt, should be the same width.

Believe it or not, the 8.8 is more desirable for the swap because the disc brake and same bolt patter. If you can source a D60, semi or full floating, it is not hard to swap the lug pattern. they believe it or not they are generally cheaper since they are less desirable since the Big Dogs generally prefer the 14 bolts cause they are simply stronger and the smaller rig say under 37" tires generally go with the 8.8 or 44 cause they think the 60 is too much.

I have seen 60 rears sell for as low as $50 for a 30 spline semi floating and full floaters generally go for $100+

Disc brake conversions are easy to put together too with junk yard parts.

 

[Truth]

60's! FF 60.

Hell, I've had my YJ 15 years now and STILL haven't gotten around to an axle swap. I've had my fair of swapping c-clip shafts with a lockrite and it's not fun to do on the trail. I even keep spare springs because I've lost a few. When I do get around to it there will be a pair of Full width 60's under my jeep.

 

[Bounty__Hunter]

I've fixed my share of broken d35's on the trail, I agree not fun at all. Usually involves magnets, prybars, duct tape, pics, etc. Haven't seen that problem with the 8.8 axle.

 

[88Wrangles]

Hell just put 'mog axle or some 2.5 rockwells in there and call it good.