Rear Differential Options For a Jeep TJ

Catoctin Jeep

Catoctin Jeep

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I want to replace my D35 with a better rear axle assembly. Now I know these questions have been asked over and over but I am going to ask anyway.

There are a few options as just about everyone knows. A drop-in D44 from another TJ, Ford 8.8 and a Chrysler 8.25 from an XJ.

Currently I am running 33's but maybe going to 35's in the future. The 8.8 is a strong axle but it does need wheel spacers to match the front and a few parts to hook up the brakes, the Dana 44 would be the easiest and I believe the 8.25 is the same width as whats in the TJ now.

So I guess what I am asking is, were does the 8.25 stand with these options. I do know a few people that are running big tires with no issues with the 8.25. I want to lean more to the Chrysler rear, but I am not sure so I would like to have a little input.

The 8.25 that I am looking at is a 29 spline count..
 

8.25 is an alright axle, less aftermarket support than the other two you listed and there is no bolt in TJ application from a factory. If you can find the TJ D44, that will eb the easiest route.
 
I know the 8.8 and 8.25 will need fab work to install, thats no problem. So I'm thinking for my application the cost of a D44 will come out the same opposed to fabbing up brackets to install the other rears even though they are cheaper to purchase. The D44's will be the route I'll take. I'll shop around to find a front and rear set that already have 4.11's installed, probably from a 4cyl. Jeep.
 
finding a Dana 44 front and rear are like finding the proverbial pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. Craigslist and your local jeep clubs are a good source, but make sure you have the money in the bank, because when they do come up there snatched up fast. The 8.8 will be cheaper for your rear in the long run since its a common axle and the aftermarket supports this more than a 8.25. Buyer beware, take a tape measure and some string and check to see if the tubes are bent before handing out money. Some grand Cherokees did come with an aluminum center housing, not worth your time nor money.
 

Utah, your right with the diffs. What I meant to say was a D44 rear and D30 front from a 4cyl. wrangler because they usually came with 4.10 gearing or 4.11 can't remember. Also, I got to thinking about my 2001 Grand it has a D35 rear and none c-clip. I did have it apart to replace axle bearings. The diff seems a lot more beefier than the one in my TJ. Also, I agree with the Grand 44 with the aluminum center, yes they are junk. I'll just keep my eyes open, but I am not ruling out the 8.8 just yet.
 
I don't think the 4 cylinder tj came stock with a Dana 44 rear end. I believe they only placed the Dana 44 on the rubicon model and some 6 cylinder jeeps with the tow package but I may be wrong. The 8.8 isn't a bad choice the difference in the length of the Dana 35 and 8.8 is not much of a difference so I think wheel spacers will be needed
 
I'm not a 100% sure myself. I actually checked on some prices for a D44 and they go anywhere from $1100 on up. The 8.8 goes from $250 up to around the high $400's. With the fab work and the price of the 8.8 it seems it'll come in cheaper and I'll have a stronger axle.
 
I know the 8.8 needs to come out of a 1996 and up explorer. Does it matter if the ford was equipped with a V-6 or V-8?
 
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First, D44 never came from a factory with a 4cyl, the only D44 with 4.11 gears factory is a rubicon D44 and I would not waste the money on rubicon axles. the price is far too inflated for what is essentially a D30 front axle with slightly larger ring gear and 30 splines. Additionally the rubicon lockers/pumps are not very reliable for longevity if you plan to wheel the jeep hard with large tires.

As for the 8.8 being a "lot stronger" than a d44... you read that on the internet? It's very wrong.
Both axles will have strength and weakness.

Ring gear diameter 8.8 vs. 8.5, strength increase is negligible at best, advantage 8.8

Spline 31 vs. 30, again negligible, advantage 8.8 but there were D44 with 32 spline shafts and 1.41 diameter shafts.

8.8 is C-clip versus non C-clip, advantage D44

Shaft Diameter 8.8 is 1.32, D44 1.31, essentially the same

Axle tube diameter and attachment the 8.8 is between 3/16 and ¼ depending on the year, D44 is ¼, 3/8 or ½ thick tubes, again depending on the year/model. TJ D44 rear is 3/8 I believe. Advantage, depending on the year and model, could be the same, could be D44.


Also the 8.8 tubes are only held in with a couple rosette welds that are notorious for letting tubes spin in the center casting, D44 tube attachment is far more robust. Advantage D44.

Brakes, both are disc or drum, honestly, unless your driving a race car, drum brakes are completely adequate for a daily driver with occasional trail use.

With all this said, once you introduce the aftermarket parts into the equation, all this is out the window, D44 can be built with up to a 35 spline shaft, you can weld up the tubes and truss an 8.8 with a C-clip elimination kit. Both axles share the same gearing and locker options. I run 40” non-comp TSL’s on my D44’s, I wheel with people running 39” reds on 8.8’s both axles will handle what you through at them when properly built.



Cliff Notes:
Both are 1/2 ton axles that can be built very stout.
 

I run a ford 8.8 in my TJ and like it. It's not cheap - the price to build it myself was about the same as the east coast gear supply and took quite a bit of work, but it was enjoyable.



  • I don't run any wheel spacers and don't have a problem (the 8.8 is only an inch or so narrower than the 35).
  • 96+ explorers have disc brakes (which I believe to be an upgrade over my TJ's drums).
  • Even though explorers have c-clip axles, the disc brakes allow you to limp off the trail by keeping the axle together.
  • I bought an 8.8 with 3.73 gears (matched my front) and a limited slip (better than open until I can save some more $)
  • You'll need to weld the axle tubes to the diff to make it solid.

I've been dragging my feet on doing an 8.8 writeup, but it may be time to get off my butt.
 
I guess either way you look at it comes down to personal preference. I don't mind doing fab work, but it does seem like a marginal gain just like jps4jeep has stated. It would be a lot easier just to get a 44 from a TJ and not worry about welding up mounting brackets.
 

I was thinking about the 8.8 for my rig but you loose precious ground clearance lol read up and weigh all your options the the 44 isn't much better then the 8.25 but if you can get a direct swap why not go that rout? Also jeep in mind if you go 8.25 you can do the zj rear disc conversion. I haven't done it yet but will be soon it's really easy to do :)
 
I'm still not counting out the 8.25...It's definitely better than the 35 and the width is the same. Speaking of drum brakes and proper setup. I had a 1974 CJ-5 that had drums front and rear and I could almost stop that thing on a dime, and that was with 35" tires. It never pulled to one side stayed straight.
 
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